jrocket

Hmm I might buy some new slotted rotors and pads while i am buggering around with the brakes.

Thanks dude. Yeah i really had no intention of goin near the ABS unit as this wasn't mentioned in the workshop manual as part of the bleed process. I have bleed quite a few cars before doing mine and friends with no troubles and always get a excellent brake feel at the end. BUT all of these cars too did not have ABS. So this is a bit new for me. But i followed the bleed process as per the manual and similar to above. When my car was getting worked on i think the brakes where disconnected for a month or so, so i am thinking that must have given it a good chance to get alot of air into the system or letting the oil drain out. I dunno what he panel beater has done. I didn't think about any problems with the braking at the time. I will do the bleed again as you recommend and i wont mucking round with the ABS or master cylinder. Thanks for the feed back its much appreciated.

Pfft never been started. Who the hell builds up a car with big powerfull engine etc, hooks every thing up to it to work, then goes "hmm i dont think i want to hear this run now or take it for a drive". Yeah right.

Cheers guys thanks for the feed back. I did bleed the brakes twice so far and did get some air out of it both times. I did do it in a similar method to what you have stated. I go and bleed the brakes a few more times and see what the result is. At what stage should i think of rebuilding the brake calipers, ie new seals etc. My car is a 1995 model r33. Hopefully i get some better results when i bleed the brakes again. On the ABS unit what are those two bolts on top of the unit. They seem to have a STAR type bolt head. Is this the bleed for the ABS? As far as i can see the only bleed valves are the ones on the calipers. There doesn't seem to be anywhere else to extract air.

I am not too worried about paying for a tow vehicle and trailer cos i was wanting something to tow trailers as well as an every day vehicle to drive to work. I am thinking of getting a 4wd ute or something to tow with and also carry the motorbike around in. I was thinking of spending like $10k any ways on a good tow vehicle. I will worry bout the trailer later. I figured that i might be able to just hire a trailer from the local servo when i do need to take the car somewhere. Then when i can afford it i will buy my own trailer.

Hey all. I recently got my car repaired where they took the back diff cradle out etc which disconnected the back brakes. When they put the cradle back in they just connected up the brakes again and bleed ONLY the back brakes. I got in the car afterwards and the brakes where VERY VERY weak with the pedal going right to the floor. I was like wtf did they do. These dumb asses were only panel beaters so i didn't want them to touch the cars brakes again. I just figured they didn't bleed the brakes right. I check the workshop manual and they bleed the brakes myself. When i did this there was lots of air in the brake lines. But after bleeding as per the manual the brake pedal did feel a bit better and braking was better but the brakes didn't work until the pedal was about 1/2 way to the floor. The car has ABS braking so i thought maybe some air has got into the ABS unit. So i took the car for a spin and braked hard a few times so that the ABS would work hoping that maybe it might work the air through. I then bleed the brakes again when i got home and did get some more air out of the system. But still the brake pedal falls about 1/2 way down before i get any braking force. Why is this the case. I haven't driven any other skylines so i got nothing to compare against. I am thinking maybe i should get a brake master cylinder kit and change all the seal and see what happens. What do you all think? Or is this problem best left to a ABS braking specialist. Cheers

Yeah thats the reason i want a track car really, cos i dont want to mess up my good liner. I have got it looking real good now with a new paint job and other stuff done to it. I dont feel too inclined to smash it up at the track. A race only car will be awesome cos as mentioned i wont have to worry bout getting home when i burn that clutch out etc or worry bout any vic road rules etc. My only problem is i can't seem to save up enough money fast enough. I want to buy a race only car, then i need a vehicle to tow it with. At the moment it looks like it will be mid next year before i get to see some racing action . I wish i could be into the racing etc sooner cos i feel that i am missing out on some serious fun there. Ah well i will get there soon.

Hmm yeah i been thinking about it. The guys at the import yards are really only interested in selling cars. I want a good cheap race car but unfortunately its a bit expensive to buy the same car here that is currently road registered. I would buy one just as a unregistered wreck or something but there are not that many around. I dont intend to register the car or anything like that so i dont see how it should be a problem getting a CAMS registered person to buy it for me. I mean the car just a peice of equipment. Can't they grind off the engine numbers or something so the car is not able to be readily registered. Hmm i will see how it goes. I still dont have quite enough money to buy one yet neways.

Hey i was thinking of getting a race only import car too, but i am going to try and get someone with a CAMS license to buy the car for me hence i wont need a license to get the car from a import dealer. Then i will be able to use the car for track days etc that don't require CAMS licenses. I hope to start off having a bit of fun at first at various track days then maybe move into something more serious. Do ya think it would work getting someone else with a CAMS licence to buy the car for you?

Hey i will gives ya's a hint. use car wax on the inside of the front windscreen glass. It helps stuff not stick to the glass. Seemed to work for me last time i got a sticker. Cop stuck it on and couldn't get it to stay on right. Sticker was peeling the edges. After sitting in the sun for a bit it soon fell off on the floor.

Hmm I has this problem once where the key didnt seem to work after i had the car panelbeated. This was with my R33. The cable release worked ok tho. I saw this little lever in the boot near the lock were the cable is attached and thought that maybe this has soemthing to do with it. So yeah flicked that level to the other position and closed the boot. The dam key still didn't work. Tried the cable release and now that didn't work Well i learned what the lever did anyways. Had to remove the whole back seat then the cover panel behind the seat to see into the boot. A nearby broom handle was the weapon of choice and i managed to flick the lever in the boot back into its oither position and get the boot open. Anyways. I wouldn't want to just have cable only on the boot cos it might just break or something one day. I am going to try and connect up a central locking solenoid to open the boot. Then i will have key/cable/solenoid.

Yeah i have already removed that foam padding in the airbox. I have brought a K&N panel filter already too. I did notice gains in induction noise. Sounds better now. A bit more psshhhhhtt wouldn't go astray. I am hoping that a aftermarket BOV might just give me a little more noise. I dont want it very loud tho for people on the streets to hear. Might see if can borrow something off a friend to test out.

I was just wondering. With the stock BOV i can hear the woosh noise a bit when i change gears etc but its seems to be muffled quite a bit. I was just wondering, if you replaced the stock BOV for a aftermarket type one such as the Gready RS type BOV with plumb back fittings etc and have it connected up like the stock one, would there be any increase in BOV noise. I dont mind a bit of woosh like some of us here but i dont want to be rediculously loud and i do want to stay legal. Thats why i will only consider plumb back BOV's if i where to change mine. I want to be able to hear the BOV working while i am in the car. So loud enough to hear inside. I am not interested in impressing the "CHIX" etc like above msgs. You should do things for you so you like it, not what others like. Anyways what do ya think. Would a aftermarket plumb back BOV produce a bit of an increase in noise for the driver of the car. Cheers

Na you dont use handbrake. Your skyline is RWD unless a GTR so you only want the front brake on to hold the car still. There is a thing you can buy called a line locker which connects up with the brake lines to stop pressure getting to the rear brakes so when u put you foot on the brake only the front brakes will work. This is however not legal on street cars. Ideally you want no braking on the back wheels so that you can do stoppies easyier.

Another way you can do it is hold the brake on with ur right foot then use your heel of your right foot to work the accelerator. Have the car in like first gear and hold some revs with your right heel then let the clutch out reasonably quick. Use more or less brake with your right foot so that you hold the car still but not so much brake that you stall the motor. Yeah but as above you are best keeping that to the track.

I just did the same thing too mate. I reset the ecu as u mentioned above and i feel that it did make a slight amount of difference. Haven't driven the car enough since to really tell about the fuel econ. If you want to see that the sensor is working you can cut some of that black tube cover away just after the plug where the sensor plugs in. If you have a look there you will see the plastic insulated wires there. If you have a sharp knife you can shave some of the insulation away to see the signal wire. I did this and hooked my multimeter up to it to read the values. An analogue meter might be better to use for this testing.

I recon someone catch him n then stab him with his own screw driver.

Dude put the car into 5th gear and just ride the clutch a bit to take off. Would mostlikely not spin the wheels to easy then. Or just get outta the car n leave the hand brake off and car in neutral. Give it a push to start it rollin then jump back in the car while its rolling and slip into 2nd and off ya go.

Hope they brought pleanty of K&Y Jelly LOL

Meh I ask my car "Was it as good for you, as it was for me"

Sorry to hijack n go on there a bit

Oh and just this last wkend i when everyone was coming back from school holidays etc i saw some pretty average driving. I nearly had a couple of accidents due to other tossers on the road. - Was cut off when some ass wanted to overtake me right at the end of a overtaking lane where it merged back in. Had to brake hard to avoid accident and while watchin & trying to avoid hitting this person i failed to see a dead wallaby on the road (was nite time) and ran over the bastard. - Came round this corner @100km/h only to be greeted by another dick coming towards me on my side of the road. Lucky for me they had a good sealed sholder and i was able to dodge that one. - When stuck in a pack of 20+ cars on a normal road i was amazed that people still risked there lives and the lives of others on the road just to gain that much needed one or two places up the line of cars. Note: cars already doing ~100km/h. i still made it to the same place at the same time as these people staying in the pack. I could see oncoming traffic having to brake and move off the road to aavoid accidents. I live in the country and this is quite a regular occurance.

Yeah i seen similar things happen while i was in melb. Was working up ther n was on way home. Was slowing down for the lights at this intersection and wanted to go straight. The right turning lane was empty and the guy behind me just slowed down behind me blocking access for any car to get into that right lane untill we moved on. This dumb B!tch came racing up behind this guy behind me, wanting to get into that right turning lane and thinking that he was going to keep moving but when he stopped she ran outta road and hit him. Just another dumb ass trying to push in and impatient.

Hmm I just remembered bout this paddock bomb subaru i had. This car was so rusted out that when y put the jack on the sills n tryed to lift it up, the jack would just push the whole floor up. Was finding it hard to find some solid parts. Think we ended up just lifting it by the diff and crossbar.

I dont like putting the stands on the sills either cos it kinda folds them over and buggers them up. if ya made some special tops for ur stands that fit the lips on the sills that would be ideal.