ob1

you can buy them: http://www.4wdsystems.com.au/html/isolators.htm or make them (search for isolation circuit, or tank circuit): http://mp3car.com

and i wont post it here, but it's trivial to get this person's home address from WP.com.au cheers!

This gem was still in google cache: Supernautics.com PO BOX 310 BEVERLY HILLS NSW 2209, AUSTRALIA. +61 2 9983 9380 or +61411 61 32 61 (Call us 9am-5pm Australian Eastern Standard Time Monday-Friday) +61 2 9983 1489 (Fax us anytime) That PO box is registered ALSO to: Edalsa Cleaning Services Pty Ltd Po Box 310 BEVERLY HILLS NSW 2209 0412 015 244 Which is still a valid business name according to the ABN registry....give that mobile number a whirl!

ive had success finding scum using a combination of: google whois whitepages.com.au ABN search (http://www.abr.business.gov.au/(jpeg0045zzp2ipnehlsjyf55)/main.aspx) You've prolly tried the first 3 already. Give the ABN (australian business number) search a go.

$40 on the AFM

ditto. Keep the RAM size small (256MB for me) and return from hibernate is plenty quick enough. If you had a dual battery setup with isolation circuit, you could even keep the pc in suspend-to-ram mode for instant turn on. A deep cycle gel-cell as the 2nd battery should keep suspend mode going for a few days.

if i REALLY needed it to work, id be picking your brain chris, as replacing one IC is not a hassle....but i'm lazy AND cheap, so i'm not going to do anything Ive rewired the amp remote to take a signal from the acc./ign. line, which is almost as good. As for the CD that doesnt eject, i dont really care, as my primary music sources are a) radio and b) CarPC. EVERY other function on the unit works except for remote turn-on and eject, so it'll do for now. cheers, sean.

after installing my HU last time, i have a feeling some of my wiring was rushed and i've shorted a few wires. Not enough to make the fuse blow, but enough i think to have done some damage. I have 2 wierd symptoms: 1. when i press the cd eject button, the unit hangs. The music keeps playing, but all the faceplate lights go off and the CD doesnt eject. 2. my remote turn on signal wire is working in reverse now. It's 0V when the HU is on and 12V when i turn the car off! recon these are related issues, or the thing is just old and buggered (almost 10 year old pioneer)?

the wheel bits? You mean the floor over the spare tyre? There is already the standard floor of carpeted chipboard over the tyre, which is neat enough. PS: i'm a function-over-form man myself, so anything that's not related to the function of the speakers prolly wont be added.

the rear speakers are tucked up higher than the wiper motor, so they're not a problem....not that they actually DO anything with a bloody baby seat anchor through their cones!

Ive just built a sub box for my R34 today and thought i'd share the design. I wanted a couple of things out of this box: - be a suitable volume for a pair of JL Audio 10W0's - fit snugly enough in the boot so that it was rigidly in place without tying down or bolting in - removable - utilise the awkward boot shape effectively - not require any modification to the boot area I measured the boot and came up with the following dimensions: H1 = 190mm = the distance from the floor carpet to the little rise on the mid shelf on the right hand side H2 = 210mm = the distance from the rise on the right to the underneath of the wiper motor cover W = 700mm = the distance between the top of the left strut tower and the big rise on the right of the mid shelf So the box needs to look something like this (hidden detail not shown): D = 350mm = arbitrarily chosen to give the desired box volume. I made a cardboard mock-up to test the fit: And proceeded to make the box with those dimensions: The box is ~60ltrs internal, which is just enough volume for those 2 subs in a sealed enclosure. To be sure i didn't lose any volume, i mounted the drivers inverted and stuffed the box with pillow-fill. The amp filled the space on the right side and the fire extinguisher will fit on the left. If you want to make the same from 16mm MDF, the piece dimensions I used are: Sides - 350mm(D) x 400mm (H) with a chunk taken out on the bottom/back of 140(D) x 190(H) Top - 668(W) x 350(D) Front - 668(W) x 368(D) Bottom1 - 668(W) x 140(D) Bottom2 - 668(W) x 210(D) Back1 - 668(W) x 178(H) Back2 - 668(W) x 190(H) When measuring pieces for a box this shape, don't forget: a) take into account the width of the MDF! (hence the strange piece measurements) b) make sure the pieces that create the concave back overlap on the inside, so there's solid wood-to-wood on that join.

that is "gtir" black....not rare on that car but could be on a 'line

In fact they CAN do an R34 rb25, but not an r33. Depends on the ECU of the car model, rather than the engine itself. From above link:

lol...yes the wife and the dog both had a try on....i wasnt even going to attempt one leg

mick, ive had ss595's on my GTT for about a month now after the good writeups in the sticky topic. I came off almost bald re01's. The 595's seem to be great value for money, yet didnt really "wow" me on an absolute grip scale. My main gripe is that in long corners with undulating bumps, the tread blocks feel very squirmy. I've tried different pressures with the same effect each time. Could be because my old tyres were so worn they had very little tread block to speak of , but i think the issue is real to a certain extent. Would love to test on the track, but havent as yet. For a road car, i'd prolly buy them again due to the bang-for-buck.

in all seriousness, when it comes down to it, the insurer will just profile all named drivers and base the premium on the highest risk person. Yes, females in the 20-30 bracket are considered safer drivers and therefore lower risk, hence (for the OP), you are the highest risk of the 2 of you. My missus is not going anywhere near my insurance policy or my 34

FIGJAM i'm good with the wave Spotted a "J" plated white R34 on enoggera rd @ 10pm tonight....saw him in the rear view mirror and noticed the unmistakable shape of the headlights and gave him the wave before he came past

this is what i'm talking 'bout

I did an engineering degree from 96-99 and our 1st semester, 1st year assignment was to "design a sustainable water supply for SE QLD for the next 50 years"....Their were most definitely questions being asked at that time over the viablility of the current water supply.

lol, it's not a money issue, i just find it relaxing to do it at home....crack open a beer let the dog out the front with me and give the car a good wash and polish on a sunday arvo.

yeah they do, but its not "undercover". They have big stickers on the side that say "Brisbane water patrol". There's one that lives 100m down the road frmo us.

level 5 water restrictions come in next tuesday (10-4-07), so monday will be the last day you can wash you car at home from mains water. I think this'll be the catalyst for me to finally get a tank now. It's a lot more relaxing washing the acr on the grass at home than going to a Carlovers every couple weeks.

One contract i read, but didnt end up agreeing to said the car must be parked in the garage EVERY night unless it was more than 200m from the registered address i.e. you could go out or to a mates place all night, just not leave it behind your own house.

no. they'll avoid paying a claim if they knew that. A garrage is not just for security either, it's for hail damage protection also.