ob1

yeah but doesnt matter how much effort you go to on/inside the car with security, there's always a thief with a flatbed....

oh, and the most impresive partner i raced beside was a turbo+nitrous Swift GTi. It pulled a 60' of 1.791 (thanks to slicks), ET of 11.042@215kmh! Awsome little rocket, but then again, i'm partial to the little dungers, as i used to have one

well i had fun but didnt get the time i was after. I blame the operator, rather than the tools I ran 6 times from 4:30-9, so it was an average sized turnup....a lot of bikes in fact. Best 2 runs were (60', ET, KPH): 2.211, 14.415, 153 2.132, 14.410, 157 On every run, i either got axle tramp off the start, or bounced the limiter in a gear, or both, so none of my runs were ideal. I was hoping for a 14.1, but i recon i current trim and a good run, it's only good for 14.2, 14.3. The 2 runs above felt pretty consistant. Met Mort and few other non-SAU 'lines, but left early, as i got my runs done in the arvo before the crowd.

weather's looking good, albeit a little hot....look out for me in my dark blue R34. cheers, sean.

I recently installed a full tubo back exhaust and have the stock one for sale. Everything is in perfect condition except for 1 cosmetic scrape on the heat shield (pictured). It's off a 99 GTT with under 30,000kms. $250 ono

nah...gates open 4pm, first run 4:30pm.

It's been a few years and 2 cars ago since i've participated in a T&T. I've had my new tip-to-turbo exhaust done for a couple of days now and i'm keen to get it out on the strip and give her a floggin'. I HOPE being around Xmas time will make it a quieter night, because as i remember, it is usually quite busy....i hope. At this stage, a mate and i will be heading down regardless, but it'd be nice to catch up with a few 'lines on the night. link: http://www.willowbank-raceway.com.au/evsc.htm

nice bit of gear you've got there

i can extract the exe and 2 dlls, but it fails to run Says it is not a valid win32 application. What is it?

spotted a red 33 inbound on gympie rd today ~5:15pm. Almost got run into the gutter by a pajero doing a late lane change.

used codes: 7319680920 4589311919 dont spose they'll work though.

do you recon used codes will work? i'll post em up when i get home. Boony's been crapping on all day

i had a gtir for 3 years before selling it 6 months ago to finance my r34.... GTIR is a great choice for a hatch. 20k seems a little generous....you'd be getting a farily well modified one for that money. think more like 10-15k for a basic one with wheels/exhaust/boost. Performance wise, it'll beat a stock skyline (non gtr) hand down. Mods are just as easy to find as the skyline e.g. FMICs, ECUs, split dumps, clutches etc. Fuel consumption is SHIT. The stock ECU is tuned a little rich and will really chew through the juice if you hammer around. IMHO it'd be my first choice for a performance car under 15k...you have to get over the styling though actually go to http://www.gtiroz.net/ then the discussion wont be muddled by talk on the aussie delivered models you get on pulsar.org There's a lot of very knowledgable guys on there, as well as a good for sale section. well actually it'd be ~10PSI, as this was stock boost. Its a tough SR20 in these things. Different internals than the SRs delivered on the silvias etc. of the time. Many/most run ~14psi day in day out with no issues. The gearbox is the weak point, but i'm confidant they dont break without "active" driver participation. Mine stripped 6 teeth off 2nd gear after a day at Wakefield. Most of the enthusiastic drivers on gtiroz.net have busted a GB. Regular 2nd hand box runs about $1k. "Unbreakable" PAR gearset replacement runs about $4-5k for the serious. must be lighter than that, cause i carried one up 3 flights of stairs! Still heavy though. GB can be removed and clutch changed WITHOUT taking the engine out ONLY IF the mechanic has done it before and knows the trick. Most shops will just drop the whole engine/GB together. Last cluthc i had installed was about $1200 labour for this reason. I only changed cars because i have the money now for a newer car with low KMs. I would have driven the GTIR for another 3 years if a decent R34 had not come up. Watch out for ancillary parts that have worn out i.e. water pump (common problem at ~150kms), alternator, starter motor, CV joints. Also watch out for cooling issues i.e. head gasket, radiator probs etc. which could lead to catastophe.

depends where you go for your blue/pink slip. I had no dramas getting both slips for my 'technically' illegal (in many ways) GTIR when i lived down there.

registering interest here as well....looking for a new system b4 Xmas.

not to mention the monaro version that was shipped to the states as the Pontiac GTO was sold cheaper over there than here due to "market pressures" ?!? If thy are only selling 50 in the UK, then there is most definitely a market that big or better here. What was the yearly sales figures of the last monaro? 100's im sure.

my $0.02.... i had a $30 one from ebay. It would work and read pretty close to what we expected ONLY if you blew across the sensor the right way. You had to blow through the plastic slits at the right angle, otherwise it'd read nothing. It'd either read accurate, or fully OK to drive. Then one day i opened it up to see how it worked. I saw a button on the inside that i hadn't seen before. I pushed it and it has never worked since I think it was the "callibrate" button and it lost its factory callibration.

the bilstein dealer in the southwest (i think...memory is bad).. Something *son....matson, pearson, peterson Something like that. They do rebuilds, but are not cheap. edi: http://www.heasmans.com.au/ thats it

yep, so can you confirm they use a realtime programable rom emulator while the car is on the dyno i.e. realtime changes to the fuel and ignition maps? Then they replace the emulator with the burnt eeprom yeah? yeah but of course there is the R&D or licensing costs to recoup. I'd look at it from a results perspective. If i get just as good result as (say) a PFC, but for less, i'm a happy camper. Kudos to them for finding a cheaper product with a better margin. Nothing you have said in this whole thread has made me think it would be ANY different to any other real time tunable ECU. IF they are in fact using a rom emulator that is capable of tuning fuel and ignition values with no lag time, then i cant see how it could be improved upon. IF there was lag time involved between changing the values and the ECU re-reading them i.e. have to stop and start the car between value changes (or something crazy like that), then yes, i'd agree it would be a pig to tune. Could be a number of reasons. a) whole unit has more margin than a re-chip b) they cater for tunes that are massively out of bounds for a road car c) they want to add features not required on a road car i.e. anti-lag BUt it's horses for courses. What i want (and i'm sure i'm not alone) IS a good road car tune: a) stock appearance, or even the ability to quickly change back to stock b) stock features retained i.e. cold start enrich, knock sensing, closed loop, traction control (if this comes from the ECU). c) something thats tunable on the odd occasion i make a mod, not necessaryly after every saturday at the test'n'tune agreed...i'm hoping to hear some real world stories about tuners using this method.

i'm after an informed decision, not an emotional one....can you actually ellaborate on why a PFC would be the better option?

yes Redlands shire get water from the Stradbroke aquifers, which would otherwise flow straight into Moreton bay.

both switches are essentially just rocker pushbuttons. You can't ust get a new switch, the auto feature is in the electronics under the switch.

nice...how do you get on the grass? Those spots are usually well roped off.

I had 4 JICs rebuilt with KYB inserts at TSR and they were going strong for 18 months up to when i sold my car. They were a little more $$$ then mentioned above though - $200+ per corner.

manual....i asked if there was a difference (life the SAFC that doesnt work with auto) and he said this method works with both.