prdreilly

KYO is the correct code, but I believe the correct name is "Platinum Silver". I had to get the colour made up a few years ago, but it was a pretty poor match. Recently I was able to buy a genuine touch up paint from Nissan, which is a pretty good match. I also have a 2003 Nissan Pathfinder, which is the same colour silver as my Skyline.

Well, undoing the 3 screws pulls out the globe mount and when it is out the spacer for the halogen bulb just pops out. Then the little wire clips that hold the bulb in, need to be bent to fit the Xenon bulb. I left the yellow wire attached, soldered the original wires back together and voila! One HID headlight now working. Sure makes the old headlight look yellow! Think I'll use crimps to join the wires on the other side as my soldering iron was struggling with these wires. Also popped in my $4.45 "ebay special" SMD LED parking light, which matches the Xenon headlight nicely.

What brand tyres and how much tread? Are they 225's for the front and 245's for the rear?

I was looking in behind my headlights and as far as I can tell everything looks to be in tact to refit my HID lights. The wires that go into the ballast have been cut and rewired to the halogen bulbs. The ignitors were neatly tucked in behind the headlight and seem to not have been tampered with. Now what exactly is involved in reinstalling my original bulbs. It looks like some kind of spacer device has been put in for the halogens bulbs to fit. Also, there is a yellow wire that is attached to the back of the headlight and into the back of the ignitor, is that part of the original wiring or to do with the halogen change? Any help appreciated. Thanks.

Further to my comments above, while the Falken FK452's gripped well, they don't last very long. Lasted 20,000km on the rear, including one track day. Second hand Bridgestone RE40's that had already done 15000km, have lasted another 15000km, so they definately last longer, however, they are unbelievably noisy on the front. I got out to check that they hadn't been put on the wrong way, as they sounded like the All Terrain tyres on my wife's 4wd. Would be interested to hear of any other Tyre reports now that you have had them on for a while?

You can get them off US ebay, some places will ship to Australia. Should be able to land one for just under $200 with the exchange rate just above 80c to the US dollar.

My 04 model has a feature to prevent engaging reverse. You have to push the gearknob down to allow reverse to be engaged, doesn't yours have that?

Hi Chris, My VIN is CPV35-508342. I'm inclined to go for the IPOD option for cost reasons, but out of interest am happy for you to forward a quote.

Thanks V35 Paul, it was where you said. After you pull the flap off, the fuse for the cigarette lighter is just to the left of the impliment provided to pull the fuses out, the 15 amp one. Had to get some help from my a Japanese teacher at school to save me pulling them all out to check which one had blown. All working now.

Two problems on my car (both not uncommon it would seem). 1. Power Window motor failure 2. Bose CD player faulty, left side speakers dropping out.

I plugged in a cigarette lighter powered air compressor, and it stopped almost as quick as it started. Now the cigarette lighter doesn't work, I assume it's a blown fuse. But looking at the fuses located under the bonnet, near the battery all were okay, so I assume there must be a fuse for the cig. lighter inside the dash somewhere? Any suggestions?

Yep, have the same problem. Haven't fixed it yet, but it seems the cheapest solution is to work around it, with an Ipod adapter. See post below: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bo...mp;hl=prdreilly

I'm intregued by this Dynamatt stuff, I had not heard of it before, how does it work. I have spent hours chasing a vibration sound in the middle of my rear parcel shelf, drilled screws in and everthing, could never quite get rid of it, so I figured it was easier just to live with it, since it only did it on one particular song.

No not yet, I am interstate. Only just got to check the forum tonight before I fly back tomorrow. Will call once I catch up with everything.

Well thanks for the tip "scathing" because it appears you are correct. I have the Bose curse. No speaker drop out with the Radio. That is annoying, especially after having gone through the power window motor issue just recently. So what is the cheapest way to fix this? Is the "(or aux input for those cagey enough to figure out there was one)" the FM tuner or tape to line in Converter that you refer to later in your post or something else? How expenisive is the Double DIN option likely to be? Does it improve the sound over the Bose Head unit?

Thanks for the tip, I'll try it with the Radio. Don't usually listen to it, but I can get AM and a few FM stations without having a FM Modulator. I'll keep you posted.

Yeah thanks. I had a look at it this arvo, sure is a lot of wires going into the amp. Pulled out the plugs and had a look around, couldn't see anything obvious, but as a result of pulling it apart, I think the speakers down the left hand side are now sounding very ordinary (very little grunt) compared to the right hand side.

Hi Chris, I'm up on the Sunshine coast, so I'll have a look around and see what I can see, otherwise next time I'm in Brisbane, I'll see if you can look at it. Thanks.

Thanks for that Chris. I'll have a look at that. Now what is a "dry" joint?

I thought it was just the door, but my son sitting in the back seat said his speaker was doing the same thing.

I have a premium coupe with Bose sound system as usual. Lately when going around corners the left speakers are dropping out. Now over some bumps the sound goes in and out. At first I thought it was just a loose speaker wire in the left hand door, but I have since realised the Left rear side speaker is doing the same thing, which I am guessing may have something to do with where the speaker wire plugs into the back of the stereo itself. Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions before I start pulling the dashboard to bits?

Pretty sure they are the same part. I had the same problem, cleaned the bushes of the motor, worked fine for a couple of months and then the same problem again (had read this on the internet that it was not worth cleaning them, because that is what happens, and sure enough it did). I was fortunate to be in the US on holidays, so bought the replacement from a Nissan Dealer. Pretty annoying problem for a so-called luxury car, have not had a power window problem in any car for years, but it seems this is pretty common. Having said that though, there are people with older cars on forums that have had no trouble, so it seems to be a common problem, but not universal.

I'm after a cheap set of 18" rims for my V35 to use for trackdays. I have spare tyres already, so I'm just after the wheels. Don't mind if they have a few scratches, but my budget is limited to $500.

Noticed today that the latest Wheels magazine has a tyre test. Falken FK452 came a close second to some Goodyears I think. The tyres were 17's from memory, but it confirmed my theory that the Falken's were a great tyre for the money.

I found that it went about 8 Km/h off the end of the dail, before it hit "the wall". Nothing dramatic, still smooth, just stops accellerating.