RBwhatever

I wonder if other people actually read this part of his post.. It was a boost leak because a clamp/join wasn't properly fitted, that is why the pipe blew off. The cough splutter backfire is from overfuelling because it's not receiving all the air that was metered. But yes, the actuator line is an important one. Get a pressure signal to it asap to avoid turbo failure.

Your spluttering would've been because one of your clamps on a join wasn't done up properly, hence why it blew off. It would've been leaking out air under pressure, thus the car is adding fuel for XX amount of air, but only X is making it to the motor....thus overfueling. And you need that hose that goes to the actuator to have a pressure signal, cos if you don't, the wastegate won't open.....

$1100 should get you one with a hand controller. Keep your eye open in the for sale section, they pop up every now and again, you just have to be there when they do.

I second that

Anyone that leaves this thread and believes any information from the first 2 posts is officially dumber than before they clicked in here.

I don't know, I dropped redline heavy weight into mine.

Just fill it till it comes out and won't take anymore.

haha but no seriously: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Go...ils-t22458.html

Black and Gold 20W-50

haha saweet, this thread is shot in under 10 posts

Oooooorrrr you could squash the crap out of your stocker. It will still vent and plumb-back but it will cause your turbo to make the flutter sound when you back off the throttle lightly when on boost. It will vent normally but quicker than usual on sudden throttle lift off....eg. gear changes.

yeah I bought 1.1's for mine and haven't experienced a problem with them. But for everybody else, may as well just cut the crap and go for .8's. Spark plug gap arguments are another topic by itself so I won't raise it in here

Well you can buy them pre gapped. Iridiums do come as a 1.1mm. So if you want .8's you buy .8's, if you want 1.1's you buy 1.1's.

Yes, well a tune will fix your problem though. Your standard ECU is having trouble trying to manage all these new changes you've added to the car, its freaking out and trying to play it safe at the expense of your fuel and performance.

Either get a safc II as a cheap fix so you can trick the AFM readings so it won't drop in to R&R, or go the half hog and get a piggy back ECU or go the full hog and get a replacement ECU and get it tuned. Getting it tuned will change the way you car feels. It's worth the dosh

Arrr that's right s15 injectors, I forgot about them. Get 6 of them and your laughing

Holy heck, your kidding right. Apologies for my rough edge, but there is plenty, oodles, mountains of information in previous threads that will easily answer your much much much much too common question. To the point that someone will just lash out and say "do a search".....as I'm guilty of in the past, but had good reason to. Anyways, to the point. Turbo: HKS 2535, Or if your willing to try out a hybrid Garrett GT2871R or GT3071R converted to be a direct bolt on for RB20/25 try here http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/hpiab2/category12_1.htm (I'm keen to see how these turbo's in particular size up.....wanna try it for me? haha kidding) ECU: E-Manage ultimate would do you fine they're roughly $900ish, or for a tad more a PFC can be had for $1100ish $1200ish 2nd hand and its plug in. Or you could just get a remap done, but for me I've found having a tunable ECU an advantage as the tune can be touched up upon request without the need of re-flashing etc etc. Remaps are generally worth $5-600 odd....sometimes less.....once you find someone to do it. If you don't already have one you'll need a Z32 AFM.....$250. Injectors: 550cc's would do you easily, but for not all that much more 740cc can be had for almost the same price. $1000.....they used to be $700 tops, but the outhouse exchange rates are really killing atm. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...amp;hl=injector Fuel Pump: Tomei or Nismo, both drop straight in and you can't go wrong....anywhere. If you do there's something wrong with you. Or go Walbro if you like a little bit of mucking around to fit it, but is cheaper. Tomei $499 Nismo $495 Walbro $195 but its a universal fit, not model specific. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wa...ss-t217788.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/To...op-t189343.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...op-t172031.html Everything used to be cheaper, but like I said....outhouse exchange rates. So this above may have blown your budget. There you go, officially spoon fed.

All is good, I've found my answer, Cheers

Hi, I'm bumping this for a friend, not for the thread starter. Is there anyone thats done this before?

Z32 afm also? And your clutch seems to hold up fine too?

Well aftermarket fuel pumps are usually a lot louder than the standard one. So I'm inclined to say its just normal. I found with my walbro and my mates 040 that on long trips the fuel pump gets louder. And the way its mounted as mentioned can contribute to how loud it is. Mine is mounted with rubber in between the hose clamps and you can still hear it a fair bit when the cars not moving. If it has no rubber mounting it'll resonate even more. A true way to check if its on its way out is to see if its running out of puff up high. So get the AFR's checked on a dyno or hook up a wideband O2 and check them yourself. Otherwise I'd say there's nothing wrong with what you've got.

Yeah great results But I'm on the question boat to about the injectors. What fuel pump are you running?

hahaha he still sounds as occa as they come. good on him

Yeah I think I'd prefer a 1J over a rb25. I'd like to own a JZX100, the only thing that puts me off them is their ugly as sin interior. But there's nothing wrong with the RB25's, I'm more than happy with mine