RBwhatever

You sir have purchased a R34 GT which accommodates a RB20DE NEO (GT - 2.0 L RB20DE NEO I6, 155 ps (114 kW)) I too used to be under the impression that the RB25 was the minimum capacity for the R34, but I was wrong. Read the wiki, it tells you about it. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Skyline And yes nizmo man, they are reported to be the most economical RB ever made.

This has been spoken about briefly before here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Hy...l&hl=hho%2A There is some truth to this. It is true that the electrolysis units made do split the water into HHO. And it is a highly combustible gas once produced. But that is just pure and simple science, and there is no denying this part of it. The concept of how this unit works is to use the wasted or extra electricity produced by the cars alternator to power the electrolysis. So you can't blurt out it's a "perpetual energy machine crap claim". So once it creates the HHO it is added to the already existing airflow and goes on to give you a "more efficient" burn, giving you "more power" and "economy". There are factors and variations that people argue about, such as the car's O2 sensor detects the extra oxygen in the exhaust so it enriches the AFR's anyway and cancels out any "benefits" you may gain from using it. If you youtube HHO you get thousands of video's of people that have put these on their cars, claimed they've had 50% economy increase and has more power and car runs smoother blah blah blah blah blah .....you get the picture. So there may be some truth. And the concept is understandable. And it may be true some people get some sort of result from using it. Now do you want to hear some fact? I'm fairly open to different concepts, I decided to be the guinea pig for those of us on SAU, although I was still highly skeptical I'd see results. The car has the standard turbo, exhaust, PFC, etc etc the stuff you need to pump close to 200rwkw. And my O2 sensor is switched off anyway, so the PFC was not running in closed loop to adjust cruising AFR's. My average fuel usage is 460kms/55L. I hooked up one of these HHO units and it did produce the gas and it does go off with a firecracker bang when you ignite the stuff. Fitted it to the car, I made sure it was going to be a very reversible fitting. Ran the thing for the duration of 2 weeks whenever the car was running for the complete tank of fuel I had. My results: There was no increase in power. There was no increase in economy. My fuel usage was still 460kms/55L with the same driving style before and after. I would've noticed more of a difference if I had peed into the fuel tank. It was promptly ripped out and thrown into the wheelie bin 2 feet from my car. My test cost me $100. So my conclusion: As much as there may be "evidence" that these things "work" for other people, In my experience it did jack all for my car. You can't get enough 1st person fact than that sir. I've tried it.... I know. So you may know someone that has it, and he may tell you it does wonders, well he may be telling you the truth....or he may just well be lying to your face trying to get that $500+ out of your pocket (some people sell them for that much in Aus). It might work for other people, but it sure heck didn't do anything for me. If anyone wants to call me an idiot for doing my test, go ahead i don't mind. I got what I needed to know from it, and I believe my experience will help other people who are unsure of this concept to steer clear and avoid spending unnecessary $$ on such a waste time and money. I have no regrets for doing what I have done. But as Kranker has said, 100% Hydrogen powered cars do work, otherwise some car manufactures wouldn't have even attempted to develop it, and NASA wouldn't be using hydrogen to launch Space Shuttles into space.

The word Sin has taken on a new meaning

won't be that then, unless the viscosity was a bit on the thick side

Oil? what oil are you using? When was your last change? That's just partly my experience with my old N13 i used to have. A better oil helped it to start easier

I think F20C does quite well in the power department. Not bad for NA 2.0L

You don't need shooting, you are 100% correct.

I completely agree that there a P Platers out there that are well and truly capable and have the right enough mindset to pilot a Hi-Po car in their own right. But for the ones that decide to "defy" the law and choose to drive Hi-Po cars well knowing the consequences when the right has not been legally given to them, they are the ones that are impatient. Impatient in the sense they are not willing to wait till they are legally allowed. Sure some people get away with it etc etc and never get caught. But along the lines of what GTS4WD said, some should be allowed to drive them. Perhaps this law could have some leeway implemented making it legal for P platers that have undergone defensive driving courses to have the freedom to drive a Hi-Po car without question. It will be things like these that will put better drivers on the road. But for the meantime we've got to live with what we've got, regardless of how "wrong done" some P platers may be in regards to performance cars. Now i don't think that was very close minded of me PS. I'm not taking a stab at you Behind every statement is a reason.

Some P platers make it a big deal because they're captain impatient.

Shoulda got stacks instead and go for the wannabe truck look

Like I said dude:

The only problem with buying non turbo 32/33/34's, is that they're a tad on the gutless side. (no offence to the non-turbo boys, I'm sure you've all got your reasons why you own one.) The kid next to you in the SSS or civic or integra will hand your ass back to you in a second. A good P plate friendly car list whilst having some enjoyment while driving: R31 if you like a RWD basher Pulsar SSS Integra Type R or Civic Type R VTiR Prelude MX-5 Set them up to handle. Someone close this thread. This topic has been done to death

haha dude you've definitely got a cannon. General rule of speaking is, if some says its got a "cat back" exhaust it means it's got a 3" or bigger exhaust from the catalytic converter to the exit. Now it probably has a resonator (oval or hot dog shaped muffler) before your cannon and this will quieten down the noise, so that's most likely why it's not loud. Take a peek under your car, you'll understand.

The K&N recharge kit i bought a couple of years back didn't come with the spray on oil but rather a squeeze bottle. It does make it more difficult and time consuming to apply, and it does make it more likely to over oil. You've just got to remember your oiling a porous material and the oil will capillary action through it. So even though you might not initially cover all the nitty gritty areas it will soak through. If it doesn't soak in even after the little waiting period, the flow of air when you drive around will help assist in spreading the oil through.

You may have been a little enthusiastic with the oil. There is absolutely nothing wrong with using K&N filters. They have a long and established history of being tried and proven to be one of the best filters money can buy that gives you the best flow and filtration. Anyone that says K&N are rubbish will be heartily laughed at. (ps. jantolis this statement/s is not directed at you). Use the filters properly and maintain them properly and they are worth their weight in gold.

you've lost the ball bearing that goes under the spring and bolt. The ball bearing is the valve. Without it, its just a direct connection to the actuator, hence 10psi because its a 10psi actuator. Also, this particular MBC doesn't bleed.

My goodness, are kids these days incapable of using search engines on the internet???? http://www.google.com.au/ search and you shall find. Tip: Don't create pointless threads when it is already answered somewhere else. Don't be a lazy arse, search for it. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/search.html&f=7

hmmmm, what shall we give him?

I noticed you said 255/45ZR17. I tried to get these but they don't make them....well they weren't in the catalogue or listed on the website and the dealer said he couldn't get them either. I had to go 255/40ZR17. I'm happy to take your word for it Good to hear good experiences with these tyres

Hahaha Winnar!! has anyone clocked more than guilt-toy? someone show him up....

So they seem to be gripping nicely at the moment, but I'll have to wait till they're run in so I'll give ya's all an update in due time. One thing I noticed with the T1R's when I first bought them is how squishy they felt, after a couple of weeks of driving on them the squishy feeling disappeared and they felt good. These don't really feel squishy but I get the feeling of softness going from the RE-O1R's to the RE001's. So I'll see how they are in time. One other thing, I took a corner at a pace today, it was a 90 degree bend and i got understeer.... strange. Maybe I turned to harshly, I just figured it would point and go like before, but not quite. Maybe my front's dont stick as well as the new rears. Earlier this week I discovered that my RE-01R's suck in the wet. I pulled out onto the road just after I rolled through a puddle in the driveway at work and the road was still moderately wet. Drove out in first and only mildy hit boost and the rears lost traction which pointed me in the direction i wanted to go in quite quickly. It was fun though haha. So I get the feeling that when I do drive in the wet, my fronts are going to have considerably less traction than the rear, which should cause me understeer.

I just had these fitted on today. I did 1st and 2nd gear run and they gripped nicely without breaking any traction. It had the slightest sound of skittle on the 1st to 2nd gear change. I let the clutch off slow then planted it and it stuck all the way. I'll post back later i've got to go do something....

Noooooo Adam..... although 14000 is pretty low for a 05 sti forester Dont drive very far hey

In the lead for 32's In the lead for 33's

I think it's undeniable there is a common trend in odo readings. Although if you've got log book proof, you'd be fine to believe yours is genuine. The people that have theirs in the 100k+ figures are just people that drive their cars as dailys and manage to clock plenty of kms fast. I've clocked 40 000 odd in the 2 and half years of ownership of my vehicle. Bought it with 97 000, which I knew was a pretty whacked figure for a 93 model car and had to have been tampered with.