RBwhatever

Steering lock failure possibly. Rare. So rare i've never heard of them failing. But thats the only thing that comes to my mind that would lock the steering wheel in a position. Turning the key initially disengages the steering wheel lock, but if it locks off while the key is already turned then it must be stuffed somehow. I know the casting inside can possibly fail and release the lock, but i've never heard of it happening before. If for some reason you find it hard to turn the key, jiggle the steering wheel while you turn the key, as it takes pressure off the steering lock.

I see one turbo. Who cares if the guy talks crap. Leave him be in his neverland and get on with life. He's just a waste of time.

RB25, Iridiums, 1.1mm, 200rwkw??, 12psi, heat range 5.

Have you purchased one of their turbo's? If so, how is it going for you?

250rwkw on average. Depends on the turbo you buy. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ge...ts-t114619.html Depends how much power you want it to handle of course though.

hahahahaha my thoughts exactly. Although it was a good marketing scheme to rip people off. Usually most things from north qld are just all boganised.

I'm shocked. I just saw on the their website they're located in carins. Nothing this good or complex has ever come out of cairns to my knowledge. Its only an hour down the road from me too. Its something I'd expect to see get developed in sydney or melbourne. Nonetheless, good on them. I'm keen to see what becomes of this.

Well if your looking for costs you'll be up for a bit if you want a power upgrade. you have to consider: Dump pipe/Front pipe and highflow cat - $400ish $500ish depending where you go for it. Front mount intercoler kit - $400-$1000 depending on brand Z32 Air Flow Meter - $250 Engine Management - $1000-$2000 depending on the ECU you buy Nismo/Tomei Fuel Pump - $350-$400 roughly Clutch - $500 roughly Injectors - $600-$700 for brand newys roughly Decent BB Turbo - $1200-$2500 depending on turbo whether you buy just the turbo or a kit. Tune - $600 odd

hahaha damn. yes the skylines running costs and insurance premiums has made me wonder if I shall keep it either. Out of curiosity, whats the goin price of 98RON fuel in your vicinity when you last fueled up? I filled up today and it was $1.56/L for BP ultimate. I'd say it's fairly good considering the price of regular unleaded down south.

hahahahahahahahahaahhahahahahahahahahahahahahahah good ol' r32 vs r33 / rb20 vs rb25 arguements In short, rb25 r33 = win. but a rb25 32 would be nice

The only way the RB35 is gonna exist is if you stroke out a rb30 to 3.5L. Otherwise, Peter Pan called.......he wants his motor back

Forza 2 + steering wheel and pedals + large HD tv = Win

^^^^^Dude man, don't ever use nail varnish/polish remover on car paint. Other things yes maybe but not paint. Its the same stuff as thinners/laquer. Mineral Turpentine is fine to use on your paint. Depends on the glue used though as said before. Its also great for taking of tar spots. Cheap and effective.

Mine were solid

1. take your pod and AFM off. 2. use a baked bean can (full) and put it into your rubber intake pipe (assuming its still the stock one). 3. tighten up the hose clamp onto the tin creating a seal. 4. Open the throttle body with a brick on the accelerator pedal, so you can read pressure on the boost gauge. 5. take a hose that is plumbed into your intake between the turbo and the plenum or off the plenum itself. 6. Get an air compressor and pressurize the system through the hose and get someone to read the psi on the boost gauge. you only need about 5psi. you can use the compressors at the servos. 7. Listen for a leak. And use the soapy water in the spray bottle to find exactly where it is if need be.

Wow, kudos to you sir. Thats a pretty good result from working with what nissan gave gave ya

So like, you've got a RB30det using a standard rb25det ecu and standard rb25det afm?? or have you changed the afm to a z32? Either way, sounds like you've got either a remapped ecu or an absolutely unheard of freak of nissan nature ecu. I've never heard of a standard rb25 ecu being able to comfortably handle such mods as a rb30det conversion, bigger turbo, injectors and afm. If its true that its a standard ecu and its making that kind of power, then your yet to find out the benefits of tuning.

Hahaha, for once GTST spoke like he is a newb. lol a true moment is sau history But seriously now, its quite normal. Mine did it when it had the stock ecu and it still does it with the Power FC. Depends what gear your decellerating in as well.

its the hardware interface box you want to know about. The program/software is updatable/downloadable. The black box does all PFC's. The white box only does a handfull of cars thus needing 2 boxes if you want it to do all PFC's

I'm not sure how far your newb status goes or what mods you alreay have, but there are other factors/costs to consider when upgrading the turbo. in a nut shell: Injectors $500-$700 Tunable ECU $1000-$2500 depends on which one you get Air Flow Meter.....generally a Z32 $200-$300 Clutch $350-$500 Fuel Pump $160-$350 walbro or nismo/tomei Tune $600 average figure FMIC if you don't already have one $400-$1000 depends on brand and kit Labour to fit if your not going to do it yourself....$$?? All i can think of right now.

dc2r integra

I'm sure its been said already in this thread. You can regap them, but your not supposed to. NGK iridium are iridium coated and have a fine electrode tip. When they're regapped, there's a high chance you'll chip some of the iridium coating off and damaging the fine electrode, greatly reducing the life of the plug. If you want .8mm iridiums, you can buy them pre-gapped for the same price. Coppers don't have this problem because they're solid copper, it doesn't matter if you scratch the electrode. If you haven't had problems regapping iridiums then good for you. Buts its not recommended to do so.

guricha dude, you need to get that power fc tuned. If there's no dyno's over there then road tuning is the next best thing......which you already seem to be doing. To tune the Power FC properly you'll need on of these http://www.fc-datalogit.co.nz/datalogit.html. And also a wideband O2 sensor if you don't have one already http://www.plxdevices.com/products/dm200/smafrcombo/ And you'll also need a laptop. Then once you have that, you'll need someone who knows what they're doing to tune it. Unless you want to try your hand at it and do some experimenting.

uhhhh wrong dude. Its V35. This is a R35

Why don't you turn traction control off and see that your wheels won't spin....in any gear for that matter unless you clutch dump it or power over in a corner, especially with T1R's. Otherwise it's probably as stated already and your clutch could've seen better days. edit: added info