RBwhatever

So it looks this will be the last iteration of the inline 6 for ford. The last version till 2010 then the duratec V6's will be implemented.

Wow nicely said. Responisbly answered indeed, i should try that more often in bov threads. It seems to be almost instant flame reaction when you see the words atmo bov these days. That said, standard plumback bovs go for quite cheap in the for sale section if you don't have one. When i say cheap usually around the $50 or less for a perfectly fine standard recirculating valve. In all honesty, as much as one might think atmo bov's sound awesome, after driving around and having it vent all the time, the sound gets pretty average.

Did some one say SAFC NEO manual???? Here ya go son http://www.apexi-usa.com/pdfInstallation/42.pdf

A aftermarket dump/front pipe and cat back back (JJR or Xforce for example) will bolt up to a stock cat. However, you should upgrade the cat anyway to a 3" high flow cat when upgrading your whole exhaust to get the most out of your exhaust system. If you haven't got an exhaust on yet, have a look at www.justjap.com as they have complete exhaust bolt on kits for standard turboed skylines. That includes dump/front pipe, 3"cat and cat back for a very reasonable price compared to japanese brands. Otherwise head down to an exhaust shop and get a quote on a custom system.

As above ^^

He wants to get the awesome PPPTTTSSSCCHHHH so people turn around and say OMG he's got a turbo bro!!........OMG it stalled bro!!!! ps. there's genuine reasons why comments like these and the one above are said. Use the search function and all will be revealed.

yes it should fit. Unless someones screwed around with the exhaust beforehand and done a dodgey with the flanges for some unknown rare reason.

It should be if its to replace a stock item.

Interesting. Would you like to try the T1R's on the rear when the times comes? See what the grip difference would be........unless you have more power by then it would be a useless comparison.

Well, i've got the T1R's, only in 205/55/R16 so they're not very big. Ummm they've been pretty good, Awesome traction for a road tyre. The Proxes 4's were $10 cheaper than the T1R's in the same size at the time i bought mine. There's some drifters in the Toyo drift series using the proxes 4's to drift on. The twin turboed LS1 R34 (the red one, i can't remember the team name or driver) uses them. Apparently they're quite consistent when used for drifting and when the tread wears down. As for street use, ican't comment on that. But it can't be bad. I figured for myslef, why not get toyo's flagship tyre for just the few extra $$. Well it was only $10 per tyre for me at the time. Plus the wet weather grip was unbelievable. I've got the usual 190-200rwkw, on a soaked wet bituman(not even hot mix) on a standard take off not dumping the clutch, it would grip under full acceleration and not even lose traction on gear changes. Pretty good in my books. Great aquaplaning resistance too. One thing i did notice, as soon as i got them on the car, in just regular driving and harder driving (twisties) you could feel that the tread was quite soft and there was a quite noticable extra amount of side to side movement in the tread. But this icky feeling soon dissappeared after a couple of weeks and some driving on them. So thats all the experience i have to offer.

SAFC = AFM Signal Bender. It tricks the ECU into thinking there's less air coming in then there actually is. I'm sure you knew that already though. There is no feasible reason why they can't tune it with the safc. They either: A) are idiots, or are unaware what a safc does or B)don't want your business Otherwise try and tell them it can be done.

I noticed you said you filled your GB with shockproof heavy gear oil. Wouldn't it have been better to use either a Shockproof Lightweight or MTL or MT90? Most guys over here that use redline use either of those for the GB, not heavy weight. In fact i'm using heavy for the diff and lightweight for th GB. Just a thought, it might help better with the crunching. I noticed it improved the smootheness and eliminated the 1st to 2nd gearchange crunch/clunk.

Dude sorry to hear about your car, but this is the wrong section to be posting this topic. Request to have it shifted to the NSW section or general automotive section.

Well it is a 3yr old thread rory........ but since you brought it up, my experience is, I have bought NGK Iridiums BKR5EIX-11 and have been using them for over year now. Yes thats right heat range 5 and pre-gapped to 1.1mm. I still run the stock turbo boosted to 12psi with all supporting mods etc and I have not experienced a hiccup yet with these plugs. They haven't missed a beat even in the hot hot heat of FNQ. As for detotnation......what detonation..... I understand that it may not suit a lot of people, but for me they work a treat.

Someone shut this thread down

lol yeah fuel pump wars. I've got a walbro, but i'm nowhere near close to maxing it out with the stock turbo. It works fine for me, not so sure for you. As above, nismo is the go or tomei.

Tis true what you say, in essence the reason why i said it was because the high torque reading are products of gear multiplication etc etc. But yeah its about clutches today, so i'll keep it on clutches. Sorry I probably came across the wrong way dude lol. Peace likwise bro

This has nothing to do with the thread, but anyway. You quoted your torque figure of 625nm..... i'm assuming you read this off the dyno sheet? As far as my knowledge serves me, that would probably be a load of crapola. I wouldn't believe that figure. My old dyno sheet tells me i had 200hp & 722nm, i don't think so jim. Ignore the torque reading, look at the kw/hp. Maybe a cushioned button clutch would suit your needs and should cover your power goal. Otherwise just a button clutch if you don't mind the harsher engagement.....apparently.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Po...ic-t203551.html

Radiator fluid also doesn't taste very good. Its quite tangy..... true story.

Ah yeah. Looks good. Still not my cup of tea. As much as it pretty much isolates the pod from the heat, I still think less effort would have achieved a just as effective pod box and CAI intake setup in the engine bay. Not to mention also that the filter will be a lot more accessible for changing and inspection inside the engine bay. Regardless of what you do, a pod mounted in the front bar will always accumulate more dust and dirt quicker than a pod in the engine bay. But if it works well for you then stick to what you've got, at least your guarenteed not to get a heat soaked pod.

i have seen the stock snorkel utilised for the cold air feed. Just make your box to accomodate the airbox feed into the pod box.

I've made the lid so it hinges. None of this unscrewing the lid off to get to the pod crap. Quick easy access. As i said it doesn't look pretty, but it does what i want it to do. And this is the CAI before it went in. I've since added a shortened 45degree bend on it so it doesn't blow straight into the pod.

lol ok, but be warned, i didn't make mine to look pretty. Just function over form.

If you want some photo's of what i've got, i'll be happy to take some for ya.