RBwhatever

manual

lol. This is why vs threads get locked. No offence taken mate, your a noob so you obviously didn't know. In my opinion, before it does get locked, your cars will be similar and it will come down to the driver launching and shifting etc. If you mis-shift he'll have you, if he mis-shifts he'll just be even easier to beat.

I vote thread lock on vs threads. you said it yourself.

That him reasoning to himself. His brain works in a funny way.....grade 1 style. 1+1=2, 2-1=1......

yeah he really is good value

Dirt?..................no. Handling is good for a standard car, but it can be improved....a lot. This link will help you find the answers to many of your questions. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/search.html&f=7

Depends what state your in.

By the time you've paid for a dedicated LPG setup, you could've got a killer N2o setup yo. Gonna get gas? Get n2O.

http://www.toyo.com.au/proxes%20t1-R%20page.htm

Explains?

No it shouldn't. The performance gain will be minimal. Probably 50/50 would be best, so you don't pass out while driving, but still get a whiff of the fart. Depends what you feed it. If you've been feeding it protein drinks you'll have a protein filled fart. No not necessarily. The types that do that are generally skanks. Depends who you want to attract. They may feel more relaxed and fart in your presence too. If you've got power windows, there's usually a lock button to disengage the passenger windows. Simply lock them and have your window wound up, and release the fart. For best results 100% plumback in to the cabin, just be careful you don't passout yourself. Hope that helps man.

I can help. Just get a fart machine and mount it behind the drivers seat. We'll hook up a pressure switch in the seat to the fart machine so when you sit down it'll fart.

LOL.....yes, he will tell you what he thinks of it too. lol

A pod will give you noise, you'll hear the standard bov through a pod and induction noise. It won't be as loud as a aftermarket bov, but loud enough. *people look on in awe saying* "oh noes nots pods, heat vacuumses"........just shield/box it off and bobs your mothers brother.

Your fuel reg can still be good. You say you have a 5.7L pump, is that from like an SS commy with an LS1? Your pump might not be up to scratch. It might not be able to keep under a sudden demand. Ah I dunno

Yeah it runs fine off boost till 4000 odd rpm or so. Its when there's enough boost to open up whatever(usually a intercooler join) it is and leak out pressure. Boost bleeds off and it runs rich and just feels like it doesn't want to accelerate. If you've touched you IC piping recently, then there's a good chance the piping connections aren't on properly or weren't done up tight enough, so it blows open under boost. Otherwise a joiner may have a split in it.

No, I wasn't even aware there was a difference. My understanding was that all the R34GTT Turbos had the VG30 exhaust housing. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t1...r34+turbo+S1+S2 Might be an interesting read for ya.

How is it that the R34 S1 Turbo can spool quicker than a R33 S2 turbo? Maybe on their respective engines. Is it only the R34 S2 that has the VG30 exhaust housing and the R34 S1 has the same turbo as the R33 S2? I don't think birth has mentioned it, but he's got an RB20 with a VG30 turbo and is looking for a more responsive turbo than what he's got. In short I'd say R33 S2 turbo. If the R34 S1 turbo is exactly the same size (exhaust housing) then get that....only because its younger though.

If there's a vac leak it'll hunt at idle. If there's a boost leak, it'll lose boost and splutter and backfire and run rich, and just accelerate like a bogged down dog. (I keep a copy of this so I don't have to type it everytime) You can do a leak test. What you'll have to do is, 1. take your pod and AFM off. 2. use a baked bean can (full) and put it into your rubber intake pipe (assuming its still the stock one). 3. tighten up the hose clamp onto the tin creating a seal. 4. Open the throttle body with a brick on the accelerator pedal, so you can read pressure on the boost gauge. 5. take a hose that is plumbed into your intake between the turbo and the plenum or off the plenum itself. 6. Get an air compressor and pressurize the system through the hose and get someone to read the psi on the boost gauge. you only need about 5psi. you can use the compressors at the servos. 7. Listen for a leak. And use the soapy water in the spray bottle to find exactly where it is if need be. It is easier to find a boost or pressure leak using this method because the car is not running and is easier to hear and locate.

11L/100km on average.

Yes its based on the exhaust housing....primarily. R34 turbo should be less laggy than a VG30 turbo due to the use of a nylon/plastic impeller. I'm not sure on the specs of a VG30 turbo or what impeller it uses so i'm assuming its a steel impeller. So therefore the R34 turbo has a lighter rotational mass to turn = less lag. But the R34 turbo shares the same exhaust housing as the VG30 turbo. If I were you, I'd get a R33 S2 Turbo if you want to reduce lag & and you'll still get the same power, as the compressor housing on the 33 is the same as a 34 turbo and you won't be able to run any more boost than a 34 turbo.

more laggy than a R33 S2 turbo. The R33 S2 turbo will also be more responsive than a 34 turbo.

Its rogercordia/kingcordia/ripmeup/bunch of other dumb names. Or aka rogercordial/kingcordial.....cordialking.....Golden circle fruit juice. Ok I made those last 2 up.

Hmmm post up the verdict.

Yes it would be more laggy. Not by much though. And you probably won't even gain any extra power by using a 34 turbo.