RBwhatever

I don't reckon there's anything wrong with it. I'd worry if the temp started rising closer to the H or 2/3 - 3/4. But replace it anyway if you'd like for good measure.

Yeah that's what i'd be doing. Get in contact with Otomoto. I hear Ben owns Otomoto or something along those lines. Someone please confirm...?

I see this mod has been printed up in the latest HPI mag (issue#86) in the DIY section.

The air bleed for the coolant is just in front of the right hand side of the plenum. You'll see a nut facing upwards that on a little bracket.

Mine sits half way at normal temp. PFC reads 80degrees at normal operating temp. I don't think there's anything wrong with your thermostat or temp sensors.

If the clean doesn't work, you can open it up and re-solder all the points on the PCB board. Do search for AFM+ Solder+. GTST did a post on how to re-solder the AFM. If that doesn't work buy a known working second handy as stolen_s15 said. These suggestions we're giving you is the cheapest way of fixing your problem, Its going to cost a few dollars (literally $10ish max) if you can repair it yourself. Going for a Z32 is going to cost at least in the $500 region after you pay for a tune. IMO, jump the AFM hurdle when you get to it. When you hit your 210rwkw and the stock one maxes out, then get the Z32. Happy AFMing

The only way your gonna tune your stock ecu is by a remap or a piggyback(safc,EMU). Its gonna cost a pop to do that. So if your currently tight with your money don't get the Z32 AFM. Whats wrong with your AFM at the moment? Have you even tried to fix it?

You can probably get away with it. Its just dodge doing it. I mean you've got no way of monitoring if your motor is pinging apart from when you can hear it with your ears. I'd sell the AFC Neo and invest that money towards a PFC. Believe me when you get it and have it tuned, you'll say that was worth it. Or alternatively buy the cheaper but effective EMU.

I hear the Turbosmart E-Boost 2 is pretty good. I've got no experiences for ya though

double post.

Take it too jaycar or dicksmith or places of the like that sell resistors in singular form. The guys there should be able to tell/get you what you need. It shouldn't cost any more than a couple of dollars.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t1....html&st=20 I asked this a while back. Its not in the thread but I came to the conclusion to leave the base timing as standard and not touch the CAS, but rather buy a new ECU and advance the timing via the computer, hence a tune.

It hesitates(a single hesitation) low in the revs when accelerating. So you reckon just a clean won't fix it? What if we re-solder all the points on the PCB board like when you fix skyline AFM's?

You'll need a crimper. I also just cut the bottom of the bracket off so the pump fits easier. I stripped the wire back and soldered the wire before I crimped onto them too. You need some more hose to reach the pump as well. I used the extra hose and cut it up and used it as mounts to prevent excess noise. And just tightened up on them and the pump with 25mm-50mm hose clamps.

I just used 2 female insulated terminals. They push on nice and tight and do the job just right. You can pick up some terminals at a repco or auto sparkys for a bout $3 or less. Here's my install. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t1...87#entry3337787

Connector? You mean the plug that plugs into the top of the pump?

Its good to make quick small/temporary changes to the map on the go. Also good for giving you readings like, knock/water temp/air flow/rev/timing/speed/etc. Now I've got one, I couldn't imagine having a Power FC without a hand controller.

Yeah thats the general consensus between the 2. I opted for the bar and plate. I'm using the stock turbo, as if flow is going to be hugely affected on the low flow a stocker pushes. Plus I'd rather have the better cooling side of things. Up to you really.

Thats definitely a bar & plate you've got. I sent you that guide a few weeks back didn't I? does the piping kit look similar to the guide?

get back to work!

From my understanding only cars that have fwd/awd have cv joints go. I could be wrong though.

I'm pretty sure the rear strut brace will fit, it won't do much though. The front one may have trouble clearing the plenum....? The front strut brace is worthwhile though.

True, but tein and others also make shocks with height adjustments via circlips. The circlips control the position of where the springs sits on the shock body. Thus you can heighten and lower your car with height adjustable shocks.

What/which kit did you buy? Did you get the cooler as well? I think/assume mine was 2.5". The cooler had 3" inlets and outlets on it.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t1...html&hl=gcg $1500 as new 2nd hand