RBwhatever

My R33 Gtst is M10/10mm or something of that nature.

I used Tectaloy XTRA COOL GOLD. It came as a 1L Concentrate to make 15L. I emptied the whole bottle in the radiator. http://www.tectaloy.com/site/index.php?cat...ntrate_coolants

I don't think its the fuel pump. If it was it would break down even more under load. It could be the AFM, but it only seems to happen when the cars cold, when it warms up its fine.

No need to shout. Best piggy back? I'd say an EMU. Best standalone? Its all arguable, whatever your trustworthy tuner recommends to you. In my case a PFC.

Looks good Whats the response like?

If your current ignition is flogged, then you can replace it with a brand new one of the same model. It'll set you back $120-$200 odd though. You can sometimes tell this if your key is able to be removed fairly easily in the ACC or ON position. If your key is flogged/worn this can happen too. Or if your ignition is able to be turned with a random key or screwdriver. Otherwise an immobiliser is best recommended whether your ignition is in good nick or not.

The chances of you even meeting someone in your lifetime that has the same key for their car out of 8000 variations is pretty slim. djr81-otherwise your key can be decoded. If you PM me a close up pic of your key, I can decode it and give you a key code. Thats providing the key isn't totally flogged out.

Yeah probably. Its a bit of a security issue. Its best not to disclose this number to anyone other than a locksmith.

Yellow Pages, Dandenong Locksmiths Go to the most reputable one, preferably one with a shop front. RAM Security Locksmiths looks to be pretty good. Give them a call first and ask for a price. Try and talk to a tradey, as office chicks (if they answer the phone) usually know jack all. Do you have your Key Code? PS. If you want those 300zx lookalike keys plastic headed or plain head, they should be able to get them in for you. I can even get them too & they're cheap as chips.

Whereabouts are you living? Dandenong or Concord?

Yeah any nismo or autech or even a gtr key with the same blade as an r32 will be the same process as for a standard skyline key blank. They might charge you a bit extra, because of the extra risk involved in cutting an expensive key. The only hitch might be if the locksmith refuses to cut the key because of the cost of the blank if you provide a nismo key. If he says this, then he is probably incompetent anyway, go to a better locksmith. The key head doesn't restrict the key from being cut either. Heck I had a 300zx key for my N13 Pulsar when I had it. There are a few different machines that cut these keys by code, they're a machine that does hundreds of different keys, kind of like a universal key machine. But any proper locksmith will have this machine as its vital to have. Don't go to shopping centre key cutters/hardware stores/coles/Mr Minit.

Any good locksmith can cut you a set of keys by code. You just give them the key number (eg. X0000) and he'll cut you a set for roughly the price you stated. We do a set for $21.50. As for key designs, the aftermarket key brand we use is Silca and they only come in a few different generic shapes for our cars. I don't usually stock the plastic headed ones just the plain metal head. And no, nissan won't do you a free key service. Any questions about keys shan just ask

They're a ball jointed linkage, as far as I can see they're not going to wear out really quickly. There's no rubber/urethane bushes on the front linkages to wear out. I think I'll take them back.

I probably shouldn't of said gtr internals because that wouldn't be true. I retract that comment. RB25 NEO has solid lifters & GTR rods (note: not pistons) thus making it a stronger motor. If anyone has more info on the internals of an RB25 NEO, please add to this.

Anyone? I need to know so I can return these these front linkages I bought if I need to. Cheers.

Umm, dude, ardie didn't direct that post towards you, it was directed at R34NRG.

Yes, yes you can. No its not broken. That oil would have been blown through the piping from the the turbo.

Ok update time. When I received the sway bars they didn't come with new bushes for the sway bar linkages so I had to use the stocker ones. Anyway I was under the car the other week and had a look at my rear sway bar linkage bushes and they had deteriorated quite a bit and started splitting. So I thought well I suppose its time to get new bushes in there. I didn't have a look at the ones on the front sway bar. I rolled down to repco and asked for some linkage bushes for the rear, and sure enough they had some. Pack of 8 Nolathane linkage bushes for twenty something odd dollars. While I was there I inquired whether I should do the front ones too. Anyway he looks it up and stuff in the Nolathane catalogue and says you can only get new linkages if you what to freshen it up. It was a universal ball joint sway bar linkages, so I ended up buying that too while I was there. It retails for about $100 for a front set. Now that I've got them, I had a look at the photo's of when I fitted up the bars, and its got me thinking whether there's any need to change the front sway bar linkages at all, as it seem there's no linkage bushes on them at all. So my question is, Do I need to even change the front links? Are the stock ones good for the life of the car?

It appears that slide has used them to manufacture the turbo. Hence they had no contact with you but rather Slide was the middleman between you and them. Murnane built it, so Murnane will fix it. Murnane answers to Slide, Slide answers to you. So ultimately Murnane is responsible for the turbo. Slide is giving you the opportunity to send the turbo directly to them, rather than you send the turbo to slide, and slide then sends the turbo to Murnane. Its a waste of time and money to do that. Give the info you have to Murnane to repair it, if that fails, then its refund time.

Well the turbo is still under warranty, and Slide has offered for Murnane Motors who appears to have built the turbo(correct me if I'm wrong) to fix it. Now you have information from GCG of what is wrong with the turbo, can't you give this information to Murnane Motors when you send the turbo there to be repaired so they know what to fix? When it is repaired there should be some sort of extended warranty on the turbo since it is a fresh rebuild. If for some reason the turbo is still not up to scratch or fails even after they repair it, I'd say your entitled to ask for a refund on the turbo under warranty. It may not be the quickest solution, but it is the most ethical. Give Sliding Performance another to chance to fix things. Non of us are perfect, and mistakes have been made, and the last thing Slide wants is an unhappy customer and a bad reputation for his business, and he will do what is in his power to fix things.

Lol, its bad when you get the modifying bug when you have a crappy car. You start doing "sporty" things to it, and people just look at you and say why why why would you do that for. Hahahahaha.

I was supposed to buy a 180 or an s13/s14, but the skyline came up first so I bought it, I'm glad I did.

Imagine him explaining to the cops what happened. "uh i was driving normally then suddenly it started going sideways...." And the cop would just be hearing "I'm a hoon I'm a hoon, hoon hoon hoon.... hoon hoon, I'm a hoon".

If you do combine them with turbos, it makes the turbo go into super spool thus creating ultra boost.........trade secret mate.