RBwhatever

355

373rwkw

306rwkw

Lol

did you take a pic?

95% of keys are made of brass, thus they're not magnetic. There is a few minority of keys that will be steel, but mostly are not. In saying that, Nissan keys are brass. Be careful that no glue gets on any of the discs inside the lock. Otherwise it can make them stick and make it hard to unlock your car. It would then have to be either pulled apart, or carefully shoot some thinners or carby cleaner down the lock(try not to get it on the paint) to dissolve the glue. This is not a practice that locksmiths use for the obvious reasons.

Or a small counter sunk screw. Some computer screws have those chunky heads on them, some are flat. Edit: I'm an idiot. Fan case screws are counter sunk.

Damn. I'd say call a locksmith. There's tiny little tools they can stick down the keyhole. they're designed to slip down the key hole easily but grab the key when its pulled back out. Otherwise, I wouldn't recommend anyone thats not experienced with pulling door locks apart to actually pull it apart. Believe me there's lots of springs and little bits that can get lost & can fly out and you'll lose. If you can bring the car around to a locksmith he should be able to do it cheaper for you. Otherwise if he can't extract it through the key hole, he will have to pull your door and door lock apart to get it out.

I bought a another stock bov to crush and experiment with, just in case I stuffed it up, I'd able to use my original still. I've had it like this for a few months now, with no issues to speak of.

That would probably work. Fold the tape over a couple of times so it pinches together when you bolt it down.

Just make sure whatever you use isn't going to get sucked/pushed through. Use a piece of wood with the vice to crush it. You can use a ball pein hammer or a hammer and shifter to round the top in. The only negatives could be the flutter that everyone argue's about. It only happens when you back off the throttle lightly when under boost. Gear changes and sudden back offs it functions normally. It flutters under that condition because of the tighter spring tension, and the vacuum isn't able to pull the diaphragm up. Any aftermarket BOV does pretty much the same thing anyway.

Lol yeah i know.

I just crushed it till I felt it stop. I don't know if you can get solder to stick to cast. I used some tape folded over a couple of times. You'll feel it when it can't crush anymore. The nipple will touch or bottom out and may bend a little.

This is the hole to block. Use a screw/tape/hot glue/whatever. It can be crushed to about this height. It'll collapse in it's proper order, just let the vice do its work. Tap it on the top and round it inwards for even more tension. You may experience flutter under certain conditions. Usually only under light throttle back offs when under boost.

The goldy coloured part on top of the bov.

Yeah take it off and block off that little hole. And to make it hold even more, "adjust" up the spring tension by crushing the top of the bov in a vice. too crush it even more, tap in the top too a rounded bowl shape. It'll be super tight now, and will be able too hold your desired boost.

I think its pretty much the same as r33's. Same brackets and stuff. I did mine. Here's a link. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t1...87#entry3337787

As dangerman stated. Standard FPR is fine for 300+rwkw. Just use a capable pump.

PM me your email. I've got a front mount fitting guide for you to look at.

You'll be ok. It won't be fun, but it'll be satisfying when you've got it done. Remember, Makita & Ryobi is your friend.

oh man, paragraphs man, paragraphs. can you edit it just a touch?

Mine didn't do that. I still have power steering. And the HICAS on R33's has nothing to do with power steering fluid. It does on R32's though. I left my HICAS ECU in. Just unplugged everything that goes to the HICAS unit and popped the unit out, popped the lock bar in and wallah. The HICAS light stays on but thats all. It didn't disengage my power steering. I'm not sure what happened to yours. Weird.

have you knocked some timing out of the map? to see if it made the knock go down?

its probably just a gasket leak.

yeah i think so. Its pretty fine mesh. I'm yet to check the pod again though. It can't have made it worse. Well its taking air from just above the road, so its bound to route some dust in