RBwhatever

Yeah I agree with you there. It still has too many variables involved to figure out how many degrees less or more it will be though. Aha. I was thinking about a different heat soak, heatsoak of the pod. Yes heatsoak of the intercooler can come off the radiator and from the engine heat when your staionary, but wouldn't most of it come from the turbo and the heat generated by compressed air? If you feel the intercooler core after a drive, one side will be warm and the other will be cool. That heat can't of radiated off of the radiator onto the cooler as the car is moving so it must of come from the turbo.

The theory goes too, if you can drop temperatures at the pod, the cooler the air will be after the intercooler.

I'm pretty sure when air is in the process of being compressed it heats up. Let compressed air sit for a bit and it will cool down. Its like friction.

I put a partition in mine lastnight. Note its a partition and not a box. I made it for something to do. It didn't do anything for performance. I had the cold air feed already. Fact is, if you have a cold air feed already you won't get heat soak while your moving. When your stationary yes you will, but not when your moving. Try it sometime, go for a drive and pull over and feel the pod straight away. Is it hot? No it's quite cool actually, because of the cold air feed. Let it sit and idle for a minute with the bonnet down after a drive then feel the pod. Is it hot? Its quite warm actually....it must be heatsoak. Unless you want "performance" when stationary on idle, don't worry about sealing the pod, although it is law in some states. But by all means, if you don't have a cold air feed, then get one. Partitions and pod boxes are overrated.

My books tell me that R32 and R33 Ignition barrels and steering lock assembly's are different. In theory a R33 GTST should have the same complete assembly as the R33 GTR. There are however differences between the automatic and manual igntions. Brand new, your probably looking at the $300-$350 dollar mark if you buy from a locksmith, it includes 2 keys the ignition barrel,steering lock assembly/ignition housing, ignition switch, and the bolts to bolt it up. The Brand is ASP if he doesn't know what your talking about. Otherwise the cheapest way out would be to go to a import wrecker or get second hand and rob(I mean buy one) one from a manual R33 GTST or R33 GTR. Take it to a locksmith because it probably won't have any keys, and get them to make your current key work it. Guesstimate price for the igition and keying, maybe $100-$150.

Lol yeah my comments on english were probably uncalled for, but were written with humour in mind, so no hard feelings. Sorry chuckie. It just helps when posts are more understandable. As for oil, I might consider changing it at 10,000kms instead of 5000-7000 kms. I've always been iffy whether I should change it at 10,000kms so I just changed it at 5000-7000kms.

This is a bit of a debatable topic. Everyone is going to recommend something different to the next person, and the next guy is gonna say "no its rubbish because blah blah blah". Get something plug and play. Search button man.

So I see Utelover has consistency here. Apparently his "real name" is robbo. But he likes to call himself Mike. Robbo/Mike, I was riding along with my 2 stroke scooter. Its had the exhaust done and sounds really tough....or so I thought. Anyway I heard a harley davidson ride past and really liked the sound. I nearly sold my scooter after I heard the harley. What do ya reckon sounds better? A scooter with an exhaust or the harley? *voice of napoleon dynamite* idiot!

It shouldn't. The amount of fuel used is controlled by the ecu and your foot. The higher flowing pumps just keep up to the demand.

Why? Why would you want to do that? I'd have to look it up for you at work. There's a chance it will because a lot of the nissan ignitions are interchangable between different models of cars such as eg. pulsars and maximas and r31 etc. And there's a chance it won't fit at all either due to differences between the r32 and r33. I'll see if I can find out later, unless someone beats me too it. Are you looking at changing just the ignition barrel? Or changing the whole assembly like the steering lock and ignition barrel as well?

I managed to find who samples the oil in chuckie's badly punctuated post. WesTrac by CAT aka Caterpiller. http://www.westrac.com.au/Services/Equipme...l_Sampling.aspx They're run by Caterpiller. They run tests on oil for machinery.

Bought a set of T1R's all round. Sticks to road like glue, even in the wet.

Gotta hate those worn synchro's.

Either that or get a brand new genuine.

I use it all the time. Does the job pretty well. Don't know about the track work side of things though. Seems to take the punishment pretty well. I'd say this oil would be pretty on par with Mobil 1. Hahaha you type like a fresh of the boat asian. I'm interested in your "oil sampling". 1. Is your RB25 Stagea a RB25DET? 2. Does it get driven hard or putted around/highway driving? 3. .....edited. Answer found. To state that Fuch's Titan Supersyn is good for 20,000kms is a pretty big call, and I'd say it would have a lot to do with driving style. I currently change mine at every 5000-7000kms and it comes out pretty black. If it is possible to run this oil at longer intervals then it would be fantastic, but is it possible?

Depends where you live and what you do with the car. If you do a lot of city driving than maybe an auto is more ideal. A lot of stopping and starting and pushing the clutch in and changing gears might get a bit annoying. Ever been on the on-ramps in the underground/multilevel carparks? Stuck on the on-ramp waiting for cars to move and its bumper to bumper? Imagine trying to ride your heavy duty clutch just to move 2 feet. If it was auto? Much easier. There's nothing wrong with auto's. If eating while driving is your thing then get an auto. I'd prefer a manual as your actually "driving" the car & you have more control to what it does. But if it came down to it, I don't think having an auto would be bad at all. But I'd still choose manual over auto any day

I've got a just jap cooler and kit. I don't have any drama's with it. Fitting required a few small modifications, but isn't that what putting mods on is all about? Works good too.

Uncle Rico: Ohhhh, man I wish I could go back in time. I'd take state. Hahahaha couldn't help it

ah rightio.

How worn is your key? If you send me a pic/scan of your key I may be able to tell you what your code is going to be. It has to be a good quality photo though and close up to the key. There's no need to pull your door apart sometimes.

Nah I've got the oval resonator. Maybe Xforce changed the type of resonator they put on from hotdog to oval. When I bought mine I wasn't given a choice to which was on there.

As if have $25K+ saved and own a twin turbo 350z at the age of 20. What's a 350z worth these days? Minimum of $40k? The dole can't pay for that. D R U G S .

Ummmm wanna swap for a 33gtst? ..........Pleeeeeeeeaaaaaaaase?

It will do the job just fine. Power gains will definitely be noticeable, this mainly comes from upgrading the dump pipes. Bolts straight up without modification to anything. Noise shouldn't be too loud or droney, but it won't be silent either. I'm only speaking from experience from my own xforce system, but its on a r33 gts-t, so it's a bit different from your car.