RBwhatever

You can do it while the car is off.

Did you pressure test the plenum? Open the throttle body next time you do the test so it pressurizes the plenum too, so if there's a leak in there you should be able to hear it.

If you buy the tech edge digital AFR gauge you can still get a numeric read out from the narrow band O2. If your cheap, for $60 you can go to Dick Smith and buy the kit build the thing. But as said before, it would only be there as a general reading and not to be trusted if your tuning. You basically see on the gauge what the ecu sees. Only good for seeing constant throttle position readings(kind of) and telling you if your O2 is dead.

I've the x-force bell mouth dump/front pipe. Seems to be pretty good. I don't know whether you'd actually feel a difference going from bell mouth to split dump at the power levels your at.

did you pressure test the IC piping and plenum for leaks?

Was that while the car was running that you were looking for leaks?

No that number you have isn't the one. You should be able to find it stamped on the side of the ignition housing, which involves taking the whole ignition housing and electrical switch off the bike, the electrical switch should be attached to it. You may find the number on the side of the helmet lock body....maybe, maybe not. Taking the ignition assembly out should just be a matter of screws and bolts and taking off whatever shrouds you have to. Find whatever numbers you can and pm them to me, I'll tell you if its the right one. It should cost $30-$50 at the most to get a couple of keys cut from the number, thats if you go to them.

Touche'

I think this has all come about because of a detail that has been left out, which is his injectors were shot. Because this was left out, your first and second post brought across the impression and implied that his motor died because of over boosting caused by a dodgy dump pipe. Which in fact was caused by a combination of bad injectors and possibly over boosting and whatever other variables. As you said, you probably should of mentioned that his injectors weren't good in your initial post. Detail is the key. Let's not let this turn into a pointless argument. Peace

I suppose you should just run it on the dyno with the wideband in the exhaust to tell you what you already know....that its rich. Once thats established, retune to the correct AFR's across the map. So yeah, as Guilt-Toy says, Tune " " " " ". Maybe an FC is worth your while...? If your not happy with it, then sell the FC(they go for a hefty price) and plug the remapped stocker in again. It seems your running out of options. You've done and replaced just about all the known possible physical causes, If its not that, then maybe the ECU is not functioning the way it used to anymore. How many degrees of timing is it running?

Apparently they need to be revved during the later stages of running in. But even so, Its like saying my tyres went flat because I put the wrong spark plugs in.....? Make sense? No.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=104405 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=172717

The letter/number your looking for should be between KZ5001-KZ6000 or Z5001-Z6000.

Its for the turbotech BC, but it works on the same principle. installingTurbotechontheRB25DET.doc

Probably. It has thicker side walls though, thus reducing the ID, but that won't affect the performance enough worry about it. It is PVC and it may make a different induction sound to. But its almost just as cheap to pick up a SS/MS bit anyway.

Pull your ignition out and bring it to a locksmith. Does it also have helmet lock on it as well? did it work off the same key?

Or an engineering workshop should have some. Yeah has to 3inch/75mm. If you've got the stock airbox too, you might have to make it touch shorter. I found mine was a tight fit to get the pod back in, but it fits.

after you take it out, cut it open and have a look inside.

Fuel Filter? Probably doesn't have anything to do with it but anyway....

Far out man. I'm not reading all that I've heard too much about it already. In your remapped ecu, can your consult read all vitals and logging and stuff that a PFC could? Log Errors, dead sensors and stuff?

Was your car tuned by Dr Drift the last time he came to tas? Have your mods changed since then?

Boost leak? The ECU is registering air going through the AFM but its not actually making it there?

But if its a remapped/chipped ECU, shouldn't the map be hard wired in, or in other words burnt into the chip? Thus requiring another burnt chip in order to do another remap?

Green contacts? make sure all your plugs aren't getting build up in them. Use the contact cleaner in them. All I can think of is: AFM O2 Green contacts Fouled plugs Blocked cat (can that cause richness?) ECU is running mega rich Atmo BOV Water Temp Sensor You haven't got an FPR that's turned up to some insane psi? But you've already ruled some of those out. Does the car still pull hard? When driving and you back off the throttle does your boost/vac gauge read -20mmHg? And yes a RB25 can be that rich. My bro had a CA18DET silvia and it did just under 300km to a tank regardless of driving style.

I reckon you have a good point. But I think most people when they were shopping for exhausts like I was too at one stage, only thought about the 'fit and forget' side. I haven't had to remove mine again thankfully. But if your going to be removing and refitting the exhaust on a regular basis, having a separate dump to front pipe certainly would be more convenient. Getting to a couple of the bolts on the back of the turbo are a bit hard to get to but they're not impossible. Having a friend on hand is a must whether its a separate dump or not & it makes things a lot easier. I would agree that removing the turbo would make it heaps easier to remove the dump, but it then involves removing more things in the engine bay, like undoing the turbo to exhaust manifold bolts, water line, oil line, hot intercooler piping, pod/airbox, intake pipe and afm. By the time you've had all that off, you could've removed the the heat shield and O2 sensor and dump & front pipe. It's not a bad idea, but it just depends on the cars duty's as to what you use. Cheers.