RBwhatever

There is a step missing in this DIY guide. I found out the hard way and had a seal go in my master cylinder. You can read about my dramas in here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=174008 Anyway here's a link to the bendix brake fitting guide. Pay particular attention to step 10 as this is the step that wasn't incorporated in the DIY guide. http://www.bendix.com.au/Text/116433222907...-fit-Brake-Pads

Rightio, update time. I got the car taken into the brake place today, explained my situation, and the guy said DO NOT PUSH THE PISTONS BACK WITHOUT OPENING THE BLEED NIPPLE AND WITHOUT CLAMPING THE BRAKE LINE. Anyways he checked it out and it turns out to be one of the seals in my master cylinder is shot. He's replaces the two seals and does a little recondition and flushes the fluid again and puts in new brake fluid. And I was charged a decent $102 odd. Now, after getting the car back, it feels 'better'. It wasn't the best or as good as it was before as it was still very spongy and still took about half the travel of the pedal to engage, but it did grab the disc a heap better. Ok so I left a little detail out of the first post that I did not feel was relevant but in fact is very relevant. When changing my brake pads I used silicon aka brake goo (same thing....no I'm not kidding) on the back of them and between the shims and between the shim and piston, just to make sure I didn't get squealing. After getting my car back today and finding the pedal still spongy, I then proceeded to remove the pads again and remove all the silicon that I applied to the back of the pads. Fitted them again and hey presto, really good pedal feel and response. Now it only takes a push of the big toe to brake easily. So all in all, it was a combination of two things. 1 is that I pushed the pistons back without opening the bleed nipples and clamping the lines thus damaging a seal in my master cylinder. The seal was probably due to die and this just triggered it. 2 Is the silicon that I applied to the back of the brake pads. I really didn't think it would affect it the feel that badly or at all but it did......a lot. I don't know why I haven't read this before. Guys have put the brake goo on and haven't said a thing about how the pedal feels afterwards. So it's now fixed and I'm very happy I'll be posting that missing step up in the DIY tutorial, hopefully it doesn't have to happen to someone else.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=172870 This guy might be able to get the part number for you. Otherwise try a wrecker here in aus. www.nisswreck.com.au

What? No. If your not boosting then the turbo is not pushing air into your motor. It depends how you treat the throttle whether you get good or bad economy.

Not by much. Depends if you even hit full boost anyway.

I'll be getting the car taken in tomorrow to get an opinion from a brake guy. I'll post up the verdict. If you think its the master cylinder post up "I". I'm thinking it is. Any ideas are still appreciated....

It's ok to have different tread pattern from the front. If you get the 452's, just get them in the same size. So you've got 265's on the back so get 265's by whatever profile you've got now (35 I Think for 18's). So you should be getting 265/35/R18

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=72923 Yeah you can get away with just changing the rears.

Yeah doesn't make sense does it. It took me a while to get my head around it. But yeah there's no air in the system as I've bled it twice already since the problem came about and it was bled 2 weeks prior, so I eliminated that possibility. The peddle was soft with the first push, but it hasn't tightened up. It's consistently soft. It hasn't changed the feel even after bleeding. I was thinking it would be a leak in the system somewhere. I can't be the caliper seals because then fluid would be leaking out from them. I can only think it's the master cylinder seals. It's not losing fluid, so it must be leaking internally. I mean changing pads should just be a pull out drop in job and that's it. Pushing the pistons back without opening the bleed nipple is the only place where I could of gone wrong that I can think of, everything else is straight forward.

The fluid was changed by a mechanic 2 weeks prior to me changing the pads, so the fluid should have been pretty clean. Taking it to a brake and clutch shop is on the cards to get it fixed. Just trying to diagnose what went wrong and why.

Hi guys, I have just changed my brake pads all round using the tutorial on this site. After I changed them my pedal hits the floor. Prior to changing them the pedal feel was good and took hardly any pressure to get the brakes to engage. Now it feel like I'm pushing into play-doh. The brakes do engage but it takes a long travel of the pedal to do so. The pedal will also never go hard after pumping the brakes. It firms up about 2/3rds and just fades to the floor. I have bled the brakes after finding this out and there is no air in the system at all. And all to no avail. I have a theory: In the sau guide there was one step that was not incorporated, but was in the Bendix brake fitting guide (I read the guide after I found I have this problem). http://www.bendix.com.au/Text/116433222907...-fit-Brake-PadsI didn't do this step, but rather just pushed the caliper pistons back, forcing the brake fluid back through the system and into the resovior. After doing all four corners, it pushed enough fluid back to overflow the resovior. Now, is it possible that forcing the fluid back through the master cylinder can damage the seals? Thus causing this problem? Cheers guys.

For a car? CA18DE silvia can be had for $4k.

Once you buy a bike, you'll be like "this fast and fun",.....then you'll more power and you'll step up to a 600cc, then you'll want more power and you'll be like "I want a 1000cc" and so on. Your quest for fun/power will not end at cbr250rr. But bikes are fun though.

Should be about the same size. It just doesn't have the right angle connection on the top. I changed mine recently. The hot water trick didn't work for me. I just undid the 2 nuts the hold the bracket and took it off so I could get some easier twisting action on the hoses. Changed the filters within 2mins.

auto sparkies keep them on hand.

If you do run 91RON, I wouldn't be hitting boost at all. Unless of course you can afford a rebuild....

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/APEXI-SUPER-SUCTION...1QQcmdZViewItem This dude is selling his apexi hard intake pipe kit on ebay second/new never used. It comes with a pod and all adapters I believe the apexi kits are worth a fair dollar. And if your aware how much it is to get hard intake pipes made, this isn't a bad price at all for $330. If somebody wants it its there for your taking. Cheers

Did ya win it?

I hear the Redline Shockproof transmission and diff oils do wonders. If there's any clunkiness in the gearbox it gets rid of it. It costs a fair dollar though. About $100 or so. Otherwise I went and used the appropriate castrol trans and diff oils. seem to be doing alright still. As for oil filter, genuine or ryco will do the job.

You should be alright. I live in Far north Qld and I won't use anything higher than a 5W. In my opinion some people go overkill with there oils. Fair enough, that you visit the track pretty often, then you'd probably want to use the best then. But for others that don't do track work, I don't think it's necessary to spend top dollar on a top notch oil that isn't going to get used to it's full potential. I'm not saying to go and buy cheap oil, but rather something to do the job just right. Mobil1 for example is something I'd happily purchase, but I wouldn't pay $80+ on oil 'just because'.

It depends on where you live too. If it gets really cold during winter where you are and you start the car at fairly cold temps, you'd want something thin enough for cold start ups and low temp protection, but also give you protection when its hot.

For both the thinner fluid for start and higher protection at high temps.

Every oil change

Maybe a 5W-50? I haven't had any experience with mobil1 gold before, is it any more expensive over just mobil1?

I think I would of gone for the 0W-40.