RBwhatever

This thread needs to be closed, He's already got another thread regarding the same problem. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=169507

Firstly, your ECU doesn't read your boost pressure. The boost sensor is only for your gauge on the dash. So its not your boost sensor thats the problem. Could possibly be missfiring. R&R occurs when the ECU reads "too much airflow" coming through the airflow meter. It shouldn't happen at 7psi. 10psi+ I can understand it kicking in but not 7. Your car probably has a missfire problem. Your spark plugs maybe the cause? or maybe your coilpacks. Someone please correct me if you think otherwise.

When you hit R&R it kills your power.

^^ As above. The ecu throws lots of fuel at the motor to prevent it pinging, and it retards the ign timing also to prevent pinging. The more retarded your ign timing the less likely you are to get knock. Hence R&R. It's a safety feature of the stock ECU.

Does that mean you have to run a richer map to compensate for the extra oxygen in the nos?

Hey paul, can the Power FC support Nos?

I second the camber of the road.

That oil could be blow by. If gapping the plugs doesn't work, it could be a boost leak.

PM replied, and payment sent

Hi Sherwin, can you put me down for a type B for a r33gtst. Cheers

Pop the lid off your air box and look on the underside of the lid.

Also maybe give rocket industries a call. They might have an idea of where you can get hydraulic ones maybe. General Sales Ph: (02) 8825 1900 Fax: (02) 8825 1911 Email: [email protected] Web: www.rocketind.com

Just been doing some reading. It seems nissan australia charge $100 per hydraulic lifter. For a RB25 that has 24 lifters its adds up to $2400+gst just for the lifters only. I stole that info from here. A guy named 'cannonball' said he could get a full set of genuine hydraulic lifters from the states for 500 delivered. http://www.initialdrift.com.au/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5547

You can use Brasso to polish, then finish with meguires plasticX. Although if the problem is IN the plastic and not on the surface of either inside or outside and its faded to a yellow, then there's nothing you can do. Polishing merely just removes the majority of the hazyness and the scratches that cause hazyness and makes it alot clearer. It's kinda like glass thats made with tint inside it as part of glass. Rub all you want but its still gonna be there. If your really concerned then buy new lights

From my knowledge the autos have a separate automatic box ecu. So it shouldn't matter if it came out of an auto or not.

Your not going to use a primer? I did 2 coats of primer when I did mine before applying the base coat. The only sanding I did was before applying the primer then cleaning the rim, then sanding between the coats of primer and between the primer and base coat. As far as applying the base coat and top coat, I did for each: 1 dust coat(light coat) and 2 proper coats at least. Don't get too enthusiastic with the paint as its easy to get runs. Masking the rim with tape is a good idea too. Or another way to do it is to smear vaseline on the area's you don't want the paint, and simply wash it off after the paint is dry. Masking is probably easier though. When putting your wheels back on, wrap your wheel nut spanner head with electrical tape, it helps protect the paint on your rims.

Pinging, detonation, pre-ignition. All the same thing. Not good for the engine.....

Vacuum leak maybe?

So for us with a gtst that has a standard viscous LSD, LSD oil is fine? I changed mine with Castrol LSX90 about 9 months ago, it seems to be fine.

Yeah remap is the go. Or spend the extra dollar and get an engine management, but it can be an expensive exercise

It shouldn't be boosting while your cruising hence no noise, unless your driving up hills.

Maybe he's quoting you for a half-cut so he can just replace the engine. Jokes man No aftermarket lifters? Please........

That seems a bit ridiculous. These are solid lifters for rb25 for 48000yen - which is about $566AU. Look down the list and you'll find em. http://hioctaneracing.com.au/jshop/advance...or+nissan+or+u: Dunno a price on hydraulic ones though. That's all i could find so far.

With an exposed pod you only get heatsoak when the car is stationary. Just route a CAI and you'll be fine.

repco.