RBwhatever

Yeah there's supposed to be little ball in there. Get onto mark and get him to rectify it or send you a ball or something.

for sale section. there has been a few cheap fc's going through for the $1000 mark. gotta be quick though when they come up.

your stock gauge doesn't read psi, it reads mmhg. your stock boost at the moment is 7psi. If you bump it up to 7 on your stock gauge it'll be like 14psi. edit: oh yeah, it won't be safe.

your skyrine on qss aren't you. I heard about your boost controlling probs. Block that hole up and see how you go.

Oh yeah I forgot to add, I haven't got a accident history or fine history.

it was $15000. But they dropped it $14500. I'm up in FNQ, an hours north of cairns.

hahaha, if you tried searching for "bov" you probably would of had a better result. You learn these things as you go

Well from my understanding, Having a hole can increase boost response between gear changes, but in doing so your creating a passage for the boost to escape and effectively not hold boost at higher rpm and possibly losing 1-5psi in the top end. However, not having the hole it seems to hold the boost alot better. It will not lose boost at high rpm at all. So you set it at 12psi and it stays at 12psi throughout the whole rev range. Some have had problems with lag between changes with this setup, but I myself have not had a problem with this at all. All in all, I would rather my bc holding the predetermined psi rather than losing 1-5psi later in the rpm. After all isn't the point of a boost controller to control boost to which you set it at? Rather than not controlling it and losing psi? If I recall correctly, I remember a member getting in contact simark87 about the differences in the 2 controllers and he said, the ones with the hole are for high boost applications which what he specified as 18+psi. And the ones without the hole for lower boost applications. Mine doesn't have the hole and I'm very happy with the response of my boost even between gear changes. I'm even happier with the control of boost as it does not spike nor bleed off psi. Cheers.

oh yeah and adapter plates, umm probably where you got the bov from. Autobarn should/may have em. Otherwise i've seen them on ebay.

damn man there's millions of these threads. Anyway, the go is that you block off the plumb back hose (coke bottle cap works good apparently). To remove the standard bov you have to undo the 2 bolts that hold it on. Bolt the new one on and put the vacuum hose on the top and hey presto.

Yeah, you'll get that with a lot of insurance companys. Anyways I got mine insured with Just Car insurance last year when I was 19. And at the time no-one else would insure me because of my choice of car. After a couple of mods they bumped my premium up to $1730 with an excess of $1500 on a Rating 4. Just in last few weeks/months I've put the pineapples, sway bars, intercooler and pod on, and they left my premium as is but bumped my excess up to $2500. They have just sent their renewal to me. So this is what I've got and what they've quoted me. S1 R33 GTST Mods & Accessories: exhaust, intercooler, boost controller, catch can(not that i need it), Pineapples, sway bars, strut brace, pod filter, Pfc, gauges & gear knob. That's all I can think of. Age: 20 Rating 3 Premium of $1384 Excess of $2500 Theft excess of $1500 I thought it wasn't a bad price considering that they dropped it from $1730, although the excess is up there. So what do you guys reckon?

There's nothing wrong with oiled filters. Some guys think its a sin to have oiled filters because it apparently "fouls up your AFM". Don't over oil your filter and you'll be ok. If you have over oiled your filter and your worried, then clean your AFM with some electrical contact cleaner and you'll be set. For me, K&N Filters FTW.

Plumb back means it releases the air back into the intake. Atmo BOV = defectable Plumb Back BOV = legal

yes there are other bov's on the market that both vent atmo and plumb back.

Thats fair enough then. I respect your feelings on it. At the end of the day, it's not me that makes the decision, but rather it's for yourself and the administrators to discuss and make the decision. It wouldn't really phase me if it happens or not. Maybe we need more feedback on the matter. What does everyone else think of the idea?

I've noticed there is a fair bit of engine management threads and discussions going on. Just thought it might be an idea to start its own sub section to put all the engine management and tuning threads into it. The forced induction section is currently being used quite a bit for this. But lets face it, engine management is a big enough topic on its own to have it's own section. I feel the forced induction section is kind of getting overrun with engine management questions/topics, but that's just me. Its just an idea I'm putting forward to you to improve the ease browsing the site. If it's not convenient or not really applicable at this time than I understand. Thanks, KeyMakeR33

Payment sent this afternoon at 1:45. Spoke to tony on the phone again already. Cheers

Sure can. The bar should have the letters PP on the inside. That should tell him what kind of plastic to use,

Its hard to say whether it is or not. But its good to do the test regardless to make sure there is none. Even if there is a small leak that doesn't seem to be a problem or create any problems, IT DOES have an effect on performance. Your essentially pressurizing the system as the turbo does, except you'll be doing it without the car running. Its easier to hear the leak when the cars not running. I had hesitation when mine was leaking, and it was overfuelling and killing all the power especially between 4000 - 7000 rpm. And it would take ages to rev out and would also backfire.

You can do a leak test. What you'll have to do is, 1. take your pod and AFM off. 2. use a baked bean can (full) and put it into your rubber intake pipe (assuming its still the stock one). 3. tighten up the hose clamp onto the tin creating a seal. 4. Open the throttle body with a brick on the accelerator pedal, so you can read pressure on the boost gauge. 5. take a hose that is plumbed into your intake between the turbo and the plenum or off the plenum itself (you could probably use that nipple you installed). 6. Get an air compressor and pressurize the system through the hose and get someone to read the psi on the boost gauge. you only need about 5psi. you can use the compressors at the servos. 7. Listen for a leak. and use the soapy water in the spray bottle to find exactly where it is. It is easier to find a boost or pressure leak using this method because the car is not running.

Sorry disregard my last post.

Could have something to do with your boost controller. What kind do you have?

I've had an intercooler hose incorrectly tightened up thanks to me and it half blew off. It started to leak quite a bit of boost but it would still hit my preset 10psi. It would later on in the rev range lose a couple of psi. It would kill alot of performance also. But although it was leaking big time it was still hitting full boost. The only way for it to do this would be for the turbo to work harder to create the predesired boost. So essentially the boost leak just became a massive bleed valve, without the valve bit.

This was posted on ns.com alsohttp://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...&hl=powerfc You'll need to specify what car it suits. R33GTST and R34GTT both have rb25's but use a different computer (due to the different looms and different motor). Did it come out of a r33 or r34? If it is per what you say it is to suit a NEO RB25 then it would only suit the R34GTT and not R33GTST. Awesome price for an FC anyway.

pm sent. Sold.