RBwhatever

pm sent. consider it sold.

also depends on which sr20 your talking about. Because there were differences in all the sr's from s13-s14-s15. The s15 sr20 is the gun of the bunch putting out similar stock kw figures to our rb25's.

^^^^ Yeah I second that. I had this annoying rattle in the back whenever I turned corners. Finally put my hand down beneath the jack bracket and found a roll of electrical tape and a screwdriver. Never heard the rattle since.

Theoretically yes more power. But if you don't care about how loud it'll be, go for the jjr. Or you could get the best of both and get the jjr dump/front pipe and match it up to an xforce catback and throw in a hiflow cat.

jjr has a split dump, the xforce has a bell mouth dump. the xforce might have an oval resonator too so it might be quieter than the jjr which has no resonator.

I've just noticed that the fabrication section is not available to guests who are browsing the site. Although once logged in, it is available. Is that the way it is supposed to be set up?

Stainless: is a superior metal. will last longer. will looks heaps better. could be prone to cracking at high temps, but is unlikely (don't quote me) costs more. Mild steel: will do the job just as well as stainless. is cheaper to buy. won't last as long but will probably last for long enough while you own the car. doesn't look as good. Sound Differences: Stainless makes a 'ting' sound. Mild steel makes more of a 'tung' sound. I'd say stainless would resonate louder. If you ditched the cat and centre muffler: Could be on droney side when driving. It would sound awesome from the outside. everything I have said is not a professional opinion and is based on my general knowledge.

If you pull the cluster apart its possible to find whats wrong with it. There could be a few 'dry' connections where the female connector is connected to the circuit board. you can tell this by looking at them and if the solder looks as if it has been broken. This happened a to my pulsar when I had it. Just had re-solder those connections and bob's your aunty. You might have a different problem though. ps. why was this posted in the DIY section aswell?

If you pull the cluster apart its possible to find whats wrong with it. There could be a few 'dry' connections where the female connector is connected to the circuit board. you can tell this by looking at them and if the solder looks as if it has been broken. This happened a to my pulsar when I had it. Just had re-solder those connections and bob's your aunty. You might have a different problem though.

20 Qualified locksmith

Yeah check your radiator fluid and see if its full. Could have a leak somewhere. Other than that, could be your clutch fan(do they have one?) is not spinning to its full capacity. Or your water pump could be on its way out.

I see your point. Dyno's aren't cheap around my area ($100 for a power run). Better safe than sorry. So even advancing it say 2-3 degree's is not a good idea to do at home?

can't help you there. It seems very weird. Maybe throw your apexi one back on. Maybe there's a leak in the diaphragm or something, so when the vac line tries to suck the diaphragm up to release, the air is getting around or through the diaphragm somehow..... Maybe connect a line to the nipple and see if you can simulate it. Just a guess.

Ok so I've the regular bolt ons, exhaust, pod, fmic, 10-12psi. Does that mean I can't push the timing as far?

Thanks cubes Ok so just to clarify if I'm correct, Looking the engine from the front and turning the CAS: Advance =anticlockwise Retard =clockwise And only adjust the timing while the car is running? After adjustment put it under load in 5th and check it doesn't ping? If I'm correct only advance it about 4-5 degrees. Should that be a safe amount running BP Ultimate fuel?

has anyone else done this to their car?

whoa, that just spun me out for a second. I don't have an adjustable exhaust cam gear. I'm talking about advancing the timing (base timing?) via the CAS (crank angle sensor) and any benefits....

Whats TDC? Shouldn't it be that when its running leaner it runs hotter?

How can you tell how many degrees your dialing in? Don't you mean more power and more prone to detonation etc etc? hahaha is that so? You can't kill the unkillable cos i'm invincible.....I think.

bumpity bump

With all the right tools and equipment yes. Taking into account he has to remove the old one.

I heard it can help with reversion or pulsing.

Hi. I have heard of some tinkering with the crank angle sensor and advancing their timing to get a a bit more power. I've never had the privilege of doing this myself and just wanted to know what the affects would be on doing so with the stocko computer, power, torque, economy, running quality etc. Thanks

Its quite possible a rod has detached. Take the Interior trimming off your door and have a look. Could be as simple as reconnecting the rod.

Arrr darn it there is too I must be blind Thanks 2rismo