RBwhatever

hey bud, i'm 4th year aswell, almost a tradey in a couple of months. did you go to brissy for tafe? I looked up the ASP Catalogue for the price on the complete assembly --> steering lock, ignition switch and ignition cylinder.

Also if you didn't want to genuine, you can buy aftermarket. You can ask the locksmith to get you one in. Its cheaper than genuine but it'll still be pretty exy. I'd Quote $255-$270 for the ignition & $35-$55 for keying up the ignition (depends how long it takes) & $20-$30 for new keys if your keys are to worn to use.

from what i can see, the r33 doesn't share it's ignitions with any other model except for the Series 1's and gtr's. I don't see why there should be a difference in the r33 gtr ignitions to the r33 gts25t or r33 gts25 models, so yes you would be right in assuming that. The only difference you have to watch for is whether the car you get the ignition from is auto or manual. the auto doesn't have a pushbutton. the manual has a pushbutton. Buy one from a wrecker and get a locksmith to key it up to your key. Price the complete job first to compare with the genuine part price. Cheers

wait a moment, i'm just looking it up...

I take it that you've got an airbag? I own a S1 that doesn't have an airbag. I had a similar problem. The plastic pressure plate that pushed down onto the horn contacts was the problem for me. The plastic went brittle and broke into bits and pieces and were rattling around inside the steering wheel whenever it was turned. Had to pull the steering wheel cover off and remove what was left of the pressure plate. Although this meant that the horn no longer worked. I just had to find something to replace the pressure plate and hey presto, workin horn again Don't know how you'd go about if you've got an airbag though. You might have the same prob. Edit: Grammer

totally normal

PM QRI05E. He's written up a guide with photo's on how to install.

no idea. post a pic up, maybe someone else knows.

are they painted? powdercoated? Maybe try some cut and polish

is it a grey coloured plug in yeah? If so it's your diagnostics port.

There's actually 2 tyre sizes for the stock rims. 1: 205/55/R16 2: 225/50/R16 If you look inside the driverside door arch of a R33 there should be a sticker with this info on it. The stock rims for S1 & S2 were both the same, so there is no difference. Hope that helps you. Cheers

Hahahahahah yeah I know what you mean The only main streets/roads that I know of that are pratically made from pot hole patches are on the tablelands in a little town called atherton. Yeah the roads are pretty rubbish. I find most of the highways up here to be pretty good except for part of the stretch between yungaburra and the gillies and some parts on the way to townsville and a couple of stretches between mareeba to atherton. I find find most of our bad and bumpy roads are in town itself. I agree with you on the twisties to. I tend to go gilles more than kuranda, although kuranda is a faster, smoother and more flowing range.... when its not chockers with traffic, which is why I like the gillies.... less traffic, just about no trucks on there, more corners...

Another PM sent. I've found what i was after.

Hey mate. PM sent.

What year is his S2 out of interest?

The point that I was trying to make is that the locksmith will not simply duplicate the key. Rather than duplicating the key, the locksmith can use the key code or read the cuts on the key to cut a new key. They use the code to crossreference with the exact cuts of that key, they then use a machine to cut a new key as if the was made from the factory. So in the end, you have, not a copy of a worn key, but rather a brand new key with brand new cuts on it....not worn cuts. If the locks are fine there should be no need to pull them out. In most cases, worn keys are the culprit. Depnding on who you talk to at a locksmith shop, you may have to make the point that you don't want a duplicate, but that you want a new key because they don't work too well in your locks. Don't talk to the counter chick, you can talk to an apprentice, but a tradesman would be best. Cheers EDIT: extra info

Just take your existing key to a locksmith. He shouldn't have any problems cutting you a fresh key. Is the key that you have now an original nissan key? If so there should be a number on it which usually consists of a letter and/or four numbers eg. X1234. Nissan codes have an X before the numbers usually. If you have that code, you don't even need to bring your key in, but bring it in anyway just to make sure..... Even if you don't have the code, he should be able to 'read' the cuts on your worn key and cut you a new one. Don't go to the guys that in the middle of the mall who can fix you shoes while your at it. Go to a locksmith. If you go to a dealership, they could end up charging you extra on top of what the locksmith charged them, or they might order a genuine key blank which isn't cheap and totally unecessary. Aprrox cost: Shouldn't be more than $30 for 2 keys. Depends on what the locksmith charges.

The only gas that would go into my engine would be of the nitrous kind. Who's with me???

Beer Baron: I've heard of cars brought over from NZ that don't have the cat on them, in fact I know someone thats had their S2 imported from NZ and it had no cat on it, and he had to pay for a new cat to get a safety certificate and he wasn't made aware at the time of puchase that it didn't have one. I was just wondering why/if its legal over there or is it just some loophole. Just a Q. Cheers

its legal in NZ isn't it?

I wouldn't mind a free greddy turbo timer........I wish one fell out of my car and into my hands......let me know if a powerfc drops out of your car too...I'll have it hahahaha jokes man But yeah, was your car imported in the last couple of years? Mine was. It had modifications before it came to australia and it was taken back to stock to get complied. I'm the second owner of the car in australia, and the first owner didn't say anything to me about it having modifications prior to it coming to australia.

Mazda made a 26B???

Isn't only A1 A2 A3 B1 B2 all that's needed for the skylines and other japanese nissans? EL1 etc is euro and american stuff isn't it?

is any one willing to burn it to DVD and send it to me? I'm on 56K and downloading is not an option.

found it on google http://hotrod.8.com1.ru/ you can download from here as well as workshop manuals