RBwhatever

Yeah sounds like thats probably more than half your problem. Cos its wet and your taking a tight corner and you rev to 3000ishrpm the same point as when your turbo kicks in, it's not gonna be too hard for the rear to slip out.

I was in the wet, with 3 guys in the car including me, was turning right at the lights, took off normally in first when i hit 3000rpm the turbo kicked in and it tailed out, i wasn't doing more than 20kmph myself. Sounds normal to me How tight was this "roundabout"?

The $2.5k you can spend on getting a manual box fitted, could be spent on the engine. General cost to do a conversion(box+labour) is $1500 - $4700 depends on the mechanic and who you know etc etc. I already looked into this sorta stuff before I bought my car. You would've been betteroff if you just bought yourself a manual in the firstplace. If want to get back those kw you lose through the auto, spend the money on your motor....

Yeah its fully synthetic. The guy that sells it runs it in his stock car(you know the cars that are constantly going sideways around a circular mud track). He sells it for $36.

Trex101, you sound like you really know your oils. I've got a bottle of full synthetic Fuchs Titan Super GTO 10w-30, do you reckon it should be alright to put in my stock 33? I treat it like there's a baby in back seat and only rev her out about once or twice per tank of fuel. With that oil what should be my oil change intervals? It's usually 5000km but could i stretch that out a bit more?

Is the alarm hooked up to your remote locking, so it arms when you lock the car with the remote? if it is it might just be out of sequence eg. you've unlocked the car with your key and not the remote, hence the immobiliser/alarm is still armed etc etc. Thats all I can think of, unless you can reset the unit......

I've heard and i'll stress the "i've heard" bit of my statement, on a z32 twin turbo 300zx, you could stick a welding tip into one on the vacuum lines to restrict the flow(which line i don't know), this apparently tricks the ecu into thinking there is not enough boost, so it ups it a bit. I'm not sure if it'll work on a skyline.

PLYNX, what brand primer and paint did you use? I also assuming they were both in pressure pack too?

I agree with SECUR1TY, no one buys a turbo skyline for good fuel economy. Mine drinks about the same amount of fuel as a 4wd.

What kind of paint did you guys use?? Will I have to use a primer?? The rubber coating is coming off and its starting to look a bit messy. I'm looking at doing mine black again.

I've heard if you do use sikaflex(however you spell it), it'll seal up whatever your sealing good, but it'll be next to impossible to remove that unit again.

Right on the money

You'll only be downgrading in the sense that you won't have the performance of a turbo car, but if your not worried about that then you'll be upgrading in a sense. I'd say you'd definitely have better fuel consumption, and the fact that its manual will make it even more economical. On the point of it being a manual, they're definitely more enjoyable to drive(your driving the car, the cars not driving you). As i said before, if your not concerned about performance then you wont regret stepping out of your 32gtst and into a 33gts25. PS Make sure the aircon works in the 33, it'll make the trips alot more comfortable

Fuchs?

You could use turps. It'll softens up double side and gets it off really well. Just do whats recommended and try it on the rubber in an inconspicuous area first to make sure it doesn't eat the rubber. I'm pretty definite it won't hurt the rubber, just don't rub on clear plastic (it fogs it up really well....permanantly).

Just go to a signwriter and get one made. Any signwriter will do. And its not going to cost you a fortune either.

I might take the easy way out and drill a hole in it then. I've tried to take the whole assembly out but the sealant is holding it on like something stupid, I'll end up breaking it. Drewr33, I haven't heard of anyone that can repair cracks in plastic, i'd say you'd be in for a new lens (if they're available as a seperate part, I'm not sure). Please correct me if i'm wrong. Thanks for the reply's guys

I got 450-460 kms on my odometer last time. By that time the needle was sitting on empty. When i filled up only 50L went in so 500km sounds possible if i pushed it a bit more. Maybe i should wait for the fuel light to come on and see how many kms i get then......then again maybe not. I don't want to be pushing my car up to the bouser. For me just to get 450kms I have to drive around off boost just about all the time!!

Yeah that's normal. It'll drop even more if you turn your high beams on too.

I don't like the idea of drilling holes into my car..... plus by drilling a hole it'll probably make an entrance for dust and dirt to get inside the tailight, then it'll be even more of a pain to clean out :

I' pretty sure stamp duty is 2% of the price of the car. So whatever the car is worth, stamp duty will be 2% of that. And statutory charges is (i think) the extra money you pay for warranty on the car for x amount of months or whatever the dealer is offering (thats if you want to pay for warranty). It sounds like your looking at purchasing from a dealership yeah?? Check the QLD classified section aswell

I'm no auto sparky but maybe its the earth. Check to see if the earth wire for the headlight is grounded properly. I'm not sure where the wire would be though. I had this problem on a van, the right side front indicator wasn't working and the bulb was brand new. When we took the bulb out and put multimeters on the terminals it would read 12v, but as soon as we put the bulb back in it didn't work, it turned out that the earth wire wasn't grounded proplerly. Your problem could be similar, but thats just my guess.

I took the lining off behind the lights and took the bulbs out, i tried to dry it out with a heatgun. It probably would of worked but it would take an eternity(and probably ruin the plastic too from the heat). I was given a suggestion to drill a small hole in the corner of the lenses....but I don't want to do that. I might try to shove a rag or something in there next time and try to soak it up. It's a bit of a bummer.

I've somehow got water into my indicator and reverse tailights (from rain or from washing the car). Just wondering if there was an easy way to get the water out? Sometimes it fogs up from the inside. The water just stays there as you can see a small pool at the bottom of the light (probably won't see that in the picture). Thanks..

Hmmm... thanks i'll look into it