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DJRIFT

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Everything posted by DJRIFT

  1. Cost, weight, simplicity, because race car. Revolution and other Motorsport shops sell cams approved isolation switches as a manual switch. If they sold the solenoid as a kit everyone would fit them. Plus the external toggle switches fail over Tim where as a pull cord will not.
  2. If you use no other means to shut the engine down than the battery feed to the alt needs to go to the battery side of the isolation switch. There is a diagram in the Motorsport section on how it needs to be done. If you use ignition or alt field isolation than the alternator is no concern
  3. That diagram above is pretty much it. Pretty simple You can buy a double pole solenoid that will open circuit another circuit like the Motorsport version ISo switches. Like alt field or ignition. The way I like to do it is run the alt battery feed to the live side of the ISo switch. But if your rear mounting a battery this kind of defeats the purpose.
  4. Missed me off the updated list again. Thanks for putting up the pic of the mirror covers. I will have 34 weather sheilds 34 mirror covers 32 lh headlight Thanks
  5. I've done a few rear mounted battery race cars with solenoids. If it shuts the engine off than its still cams compliant. A lot of heavy earth moving equipment ( mainly komatsu) uses electric isolation switches. You simply wire a switch in the dash and a switch externally in series to the solenoid so that if either one is switched off it turns the solenoid off. If wired correctly the only down side is that there is a small amount of current draw while the isolation switch is "on" , so it can't be left on for days at a time. But if it's a race car than it won't matter. I've been going to do a r33 ISo switch write up I think I should do an electric ISo one as well soon.
  6. Hey mate. I just asked for a pic of the r34 mirror covers. I've been asking for r32 carbon headlight duct but I would like to add r34 weather sheilds And depending what the r34 mirror covers look like I may want them also. Thanks
  7. Sold nearly 2 years ago
  8. I've been waiting on a pic to come through but should have something up during the week
  9. Can you please post a pic of carbon mirror covers for r34 gtt?
  10. I put my name down for a r32 headlight duct. Yet to receive a pm or be added to the list. Still keen thoe.
  11. I'm just waiting for a mate. Haha to send me a pic and I'll put up some pics of an easy way to do a r33.
  12. I did nowelsy 33. Was very easy and could be made to look stock. I will post up some details when I get half a minute. I've also done r33 gtrs with electric isolation switches rather than the normal key type.
  13. that is correct
  14. Hey Shane. I have 3 or 4 spare fans in good condition. I can send you a pic of one if you like. Damo
  15. I've sent a pm and text message but no reply. After multiple parts if you could please reply.
  16. Can't seem to pm but do you have a front bar and some of the front end brackets? Also after the wheel speed sensors
  17. Hi all. I'm on holidays from tassie and am touring around Vic with my wife. I'm chasing a few r34 parts if anyone can poit me in the right direction. Mainly after bulky r34 front end stuff like front bar and reo bar and some of the associated front end brackets to save on freight. Any help would be good. I've also contacted a few people out of the for sale section but they have not returned. Pm me is best if you have any links. Thanks damo
  18. Yea the engine damper is grate. I have fitted a few of the "rb" spec ones and the way they mount up is pretty useless. I brought a s13 one years ago and custom mounted it and it was a heap better. I still run stock mounts under plenty of load with clutch kicking.
  19. it seems your inbox may be full can you pm me some more details. price, condition, location. thanks
  20. A small update and catching up on some things i missed from the past 6 months Ive removed the indicator stalk off the column and made up a pice of pipe to clean it all up. i made some ducts to vent the fresh air from the roof scoop onto me. made a defuser that has since been reworked a little it hangs out the back just the way i like them. unfortunately my friend sold his Origin wing that i had been using so i had to get somthing elce. i was after a r32 GTR wing but couldnt find one in time and after driving for some time one night to pick up what was suposed to be a GTR wing i was disappointed when i was presented with a r33 GTR style wing. It was designed for a r32 and had the right profile to fit the boot lid. it also had a carbon adjustable blade so i grabbed it anyway. looks ok from some angles but makes the car look like a r33 from behind. not sure if it will stay for long. between events i also repainted my D1Rs to have a black center and bronze lip. During the engine rebuild i rewired all the dash area of the car as i had already striped the looms forward of the firewall. This also tied into the battery relocation and new dash/switch panel being installed. The battery was relocated to the passenger seat area and this new isolation switch bracket was made up. i got a MX5 battery as they are AGM thus fully sealed case for in cabin use also very cheap for a fully sealed battery. I put in a R33 dash board as i was sick of all the silvia fags putting s15 dashes in there s13s i wanted to try somthing similar but like the 33 dash over the 34 so i give it a go and im quite happy with the outcome. i wanted to use the r33 dash cluster and lucked apon a cheap GTR cluster. so ive utilized the original gauges and cut down on the amount needed. i used a Narva switch panel with interchangeable switches and wired everything i needed through that, ignition, windows,wipers and lights. the panel comes with built in resettable circuit breakers which is ideal for race cars. i also rewired my fuel pumps through resettable circuit breakers as sometimes fuses arent easy to find at a race track Somthing i discovered while putting my car back together is that r33 rear lower control arms will not fit a r32 subframe. they are quite a bit wider in the bush where it attaches to the subframe. R32/s13 on the left R33 on right. the event i had been getting the car ready for turned into a bit of a letdown due to being so wet. was still some of the best times ive had in my car ever due to the sometimes unpredictable wet track. I did find that i had a massive amount of rear grip even in the wet but was struggling for front grip. i hope that after a few tweaks i have this problem sorted. here is a vid i made from the event thanks to my new GoPro. we didnt experiment with angles and positions due to the weather. Embed hates me. try the link
  21. That's it bushy. Must have miss read it. End result for the shell is to be a road car. Would profer good body/ paint. Anything elce can be worked around. Price wise I'm happy to pay for what something is worth.
  22. Probably a very long shot but I'm looking to buy a decent rolling shell. Would profer something that has rego ( very unlikely) or at least can be regoed easily. Profer a r32 gtr minus engine and box. I know these do come up from time to time. There is pretty much what I'm after on gumtree at the moment but hasn't been complied. = to much work. Would look at any other Nissan shells for the right money
  23. With all the talk of car trailers I thought I'd throw this up. My father inlaw has a heavy duty car trailer for sale. It's a little bigger than most car trailers. Has fold up ramps. Electric brakes with brake away unit. Big box on drawbar carries 2 spare tyres. Led clearance lights. And it's just been sandblasted and painted charcoal. It's surpluses to his needs any more. Would be ideal for someone who wants to cart more than just race cars. Price is $6500 but would take part trade on a tandem box trailer. Pm me for a phone number
  24. I have been competing for quite a few years with a bond cage that is not log booked in all of the above with an unregoed car. Only issue I have ever had is not being able to take passengers.
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