DJRIFT

are you thinking of the ones that mark and jase have fitted. dont get one of jase he'll rip ya. haha. they are a small 12v heater element (eliminates heater core) and they have a 12v computer fan. the box they come in is rubbish and every one we have fitted to race cars (would be a dozen or so) have had a custom box made for better air distribution. more fans could be added for better air flow. they do however have there limitations. one race car we fitted one to ran at last years bathurst 12 hr in the suport calses and aparently it was spastic weather. anyway it wasnt enough to defog the window with everything working against it. these are the best 12v heater and fan that i have come across and sell for around $200 but i would have to check. im thinking its under $200. another option that can be used was somthing spotted on an old rally car at the alpine rally 2 years ago. the owners of this car had made a plate to sit a few mm off the top of the gearbox tunnel. this then had a computer fan on it and some ducting upto the windscreen. so they were sucking the hot air off the top of the tunnel. race cars are always hot in that area so its just a way of recycling the heat. anyway way off topic and i agree these windows are cheap

this isnt ebay forum rules say list a price. you need to give atleast a starting price.

yes more race care build threads are a must russman. should have gone VQ for super lap special but no doubt money and simplicity have somthing to do with running a 25.

front and rear or rear only. i have some 16" workies. pair of. will clear stock gtr brakes with tyres

yea some one that can actualy weld is tigging it up for me. should look the money.

im not planing on going off topic but i can help in regards to a timer system if people want them. i was looking into a similar timer dor work the othere day. somthing that will turn on and off at a perset time. i would how ever need to know what sort of time they idealy should be on and off for as on for 10 and off for 1 would be no good. a pulse like on for 2 off for 20 sec or equivilent would be better as while its off it will start to fog again. and to answer a question in the above posts. the 12 amps that they draw could be switched through a decent branded switch only. but a relay is a better option.

ok so i got cracking on the exhaust over the weekend. i read an intersting thread on here about lobster back style piping and read that 6deg is the maximum that a cut should be made to give the best result. im only an amature hack at this stuf but i did build a dump pipe for a 1jz (no shit) in a creseda that required a lot of lobster backing. anywa i got cracking and cut out a few then worked out how many i mite need. while i was on a role i cut some for the screamer pipe and made that i then finished off the flex part of the exhaust. i had made the dump pipe before christmas but haddent finished so didnt put any pics up. its 3" then steps into 3 1/2. i then cut another hole in the floor for the side pipe to come across. this also shows the end of the dump/front pipe. im using 3 bolt flanges as they dont tend to spread and leak. i then decided where to put some exit holes for the pipe. this looks like a good spot. i chose this spot as its only a single skin on the inside and outside. inner skin cut out to make room i seem to be missing a pic of what happened next but my good mate chad who never does anything by half could hardly bare to watch as i attacked with a hole saw. my mate unless everything is drawn out and there is no chance of fail, will have nothing to do with any of my projects. so he sat in a directors chair and offered a few bits of advice as i hacked away. i only had a finshed result idea in my head how to do this to i kept cutting till i had to start making somthing. this is what the outside should look like as such. twin 3" pipes cut at around a 40deg angle. i wont show any outside shots untill its finished as im hoping to hide a few mistakes expected along the way. but i will show some of the cool lobster back work on the inside. first off thoe was the major headach of getting twin 3" past the roll cage. in the end there was no other option but to notch a bit out of one of the pipes. i spent literay hours getting these 2 pipes to fit throught the outside hole thne sit just right inside but there was just not enough room for them both. then i realised that there was no way in hell they would come out once welded together so the decision was made to make the notched pipe removable frome the rest of the system so i build this setup. im pretty stoked with it sofar. you may notice that im using some second hand stainless. thats because im a budget racer and like to salvage stuff. its no show car. some people may also wonder what i am going to do inside. i plan to make a alloy cover for it with some heat sheild on the inside to stop heat. the reason why they drop down to floor height so quick is so that i can still fit a passenger seat. i dont have a very good picture of where the pipes are running but i will put one up later. there is no more pics of the inside part as i havent made it yet. basicly ive built a house with a slab. then added a roof and then ill fill in the middle later. (ive actualy seen this done before. its not imposible) so its an exercise to do somthing a bit different and sofar its been fun. thanks for reading

hi im looking for 1 GTR injector to replace a broken one. if you know of any let me know please. thanks damo

im chasing some fibreglass side skirts that i plan to modify. let me know if you have somthing laying around.

hi all. i have an oil cooler with remote filter mount for sale. its an american kit and was brought from a group buy on here about 4 years ago. i ran the oil cooler for about a year on my drift car but took it off during some modding and never refitted it. details on the kit http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/124844-thermostatic-cooler-kits-singledual-filter-relocation-kits/ im after $200 ono for cooler and relocator parts and some hose to refit it. i also have some bolt on style flairs painted black. $100 firm parts located in tasmania. willing to post.

hi all. i have an oil cooler with remote filter mount for sale. its an american kit and was brought from a group buy on here about 4 years ago. i ran the oil cooler for about a year on my drift car but took it off during some modding and never refitted it. details on the kit http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/124844-thermostatic-cooler-kits-singledual-filter-relocation-kits/ im after $200 ono for cooler and relocator parts and some hose to refit it. i also have some bolt on style flairs painted black. $100 firm

ok so friday night i got into the wiring. ive been planning a few different things for it but havent had time to make a start. i wanted to run the engine loom throught the fire wall just behind the engine to A} hide some of the wiring and B} remove the loom from the heat of the dump pipe. so with the correct hole saw i made a hole to fit the standard nissan grommet. with a bit of modding to the loom i was able to seperate the wiper wiring and the main power loom that runs around the passenger strut tower whick ment i could just run the engine loom out. i then proceded to strip down the loom that goes across the radiator suport pannel. ive stripped it down so there is only the basic lighting going across to the passenger side headlight. ive also stripped out the un used relays out of the factory fuse box which i was going to remove and replace with a much smaller fuse holder. i have since decided to keep the factory one as it will end up being neater for the time being. ive only got one pic of the exhaust so far and thats just of the pice of flex pipe ive put in. im not sure how well it will work yet but the plan is to brace all the dump pipe to the gearbx and solid mount the side pipe so i wanted some where to flex between the to. ive reached a point of no return with the side pipe last night as i had to cut a lot of stuff i didnt want to. if the cage wasnt in the way and i didnt still want to run a passenger seat than it would be so much easier. im not to sure if a seat will still fit or not. but some ruff measurments take last night it should.

im keen to hear the results on the Plasman. i know a few people with them but they have not jumped up and down about them mainly due to them being done in reation to other mods. they do tidy up the engine bay. my drifter mate with his rb20 lag monster wants one but i cant see the money in it. what he has is good for 266rwkw now but if it improved responce at all it would be wonderfull. i think you should start on the 2.4 build. why dont you get one of beer barons contacts in japan to build it for you? the 2.2 stroker in our race car has done 4 seasons of racing without failure. but im predicting thats just around the corner.

have you seen this car run Baron? i think i have come up with a "different" solution that mite be somthing new. every one likes to see somthing new and different and ive got the opertunity to do it so i will see how i go. hopefully ill have some pics up by the end of the weekend.

call of this year at least.

thanks Barron. i i had to pick my fav 32 it would be this one. im loving the small bits that get changed from time to time. that seems to be the easyest way to do it. thanks rob.

i had thought that to but wondered weather 3 or 4 or 6 pipes would look gay/ try hard. the biggest concern if i run side pipes is the potential for damage to the turbo and turbo manifold as a result of hitting them at any speed and at odd angles. ive flown backwards off the track more times than i care to count at over 120km/h trying to enter sideways at my local track.

all good ideas. just trying to find the right one. most of the problem is complying within the cams rules. i realy need some pics as i think i know how to do it i just need an idea of how it should look on the outside. i also didnt realise that mark and russes car had many detailed pics. i will go for a hunt.

that brings back memories from when i first heat wrapped that dump about 2 1/2 years ago.

No updates for me but i am after some readers help does anyone have any good pictures of r32s with side pipes. im after r32s mainly but r33 34s would eb good also. im trying to come up with a good designe for a side pipe for low cars.

hey justin have you returned to the US yet? i still have thoes mags. i wont be throwing them so give me a buz when your up this way

a few beers a few blokes and a hand full of tools can make a mess of a car in a night but beers dont help when its going back together.

Ahhh the age old christmas strip down of drift cars. in tassie less than half usualy return once they are stripped down for "a bit of a tidy up" im more than confident that yours will be back better than ever soon enough.

is the dump pipe dump and front or only dump? split or un split?

PMs are never taken to be rude. im always happy to help out with actual knolage or experiance weather or not it shares them same views of others. but i can talk plenty of crap to when the time calls for it. aparently around the camp fire at new years called for a lot of it. haha.