DJRIFT

im getting keener. haha. i found some on ebay USA and the freight was only $850 to australia. it will probably cost me more than that to get one localy.haha.

does anyone have a contact for the ebay seller of these kits and what are people paying for them? ive been looking but cant find one.

i hope your not thinking about putting r32 ABS on your track car?

any reason why your going for an N1 pump. from the experiance ive had they are no good anymore. as in there not made like they used to be. Nitto pumps are the way to go on any half decent build. i may not have owned any of the engines or buit them myself but i have first hand seen the engines built with N1 pumps and also fail with N1 pumps.

im after z32 hubs or hub carrier and uprights and s14 hubcariers, lca and stock shocks. what are the z32 lca like length wise compared to r33?

hi all. im after a few front end suspension bits for current projects. im after some 300ZX front bits. anypone know of any being wrecked anywhere in tassie? and secondly anyone know of any S14s being wrecked with some front end bits? any help would be grate, i dont mind if its private or in a wrecker just want to find somthing.

i love the simplicity of your car sofly. so suttle and yet it ticks all the boxes. im trying to model my new 4 door on that principal. im sure you have answered before but what offset are the rears?

Another twist in my Fun car project. its now been locked away in storage for the next 6 months or so. im a bit over it and i need to actualy save some big cash to spend on this and have a bit of a think about what i want to do with it. 100% drifter or still a 50/50 drifter/track. anyway before we parked it up we robbed some parts off it for the current project. im tidying up a mates Pig drift 32. hes the 3rd owner and its been drifted for about 4 years with little maintinace. i does now sport a built engine with 3076R. If we get it running 100% in the next few weeks ill be having a drive of it at the sep 11 drift event. the first thing we robbed was the diff. the Pig as ill call it has had a whining diff for about 4 years so you can imagine what it soulds like now. while mines in there we will get the other rebuilt and put it in at a later date. its a bit dirty at the moment but it does have a nice set of Meisters. the rears currently wont fit under the guards. and to wrap up last weeks shed time i got the 4 door finished. new ex manifold studs and gasket. i painted all the heat sheilds so it looks a bit nicer under the bonnet and sofar ive got one rim outer polished and inner sanded ready for paint. i just need about 3 hours to polish the second one haha.

ben beat me to the pics but i thought id add some more pics to assist with other people wiring cars. I use deutsch plugs for most of the bits that need plugs. these are by far the best plug you can buy. weather proof and higher current carrying capabilities than other similar sized plugs. this is how they go together as such. this example is a plug for the ABS wheel sensor. the wire is 16gauge Mill spec is in PVC sleving which is my profered looming material. it makes the nicest neatest job of any loom but is a pain in the ass to do and probably adds 50% more time to any job. next ois what i started with regarding all the ABS wiring this shot shows that there is 2 looms mearging into one. a pice of heat-shrink is then slid over the top and once the 3 bits of PVC sleving are pulled into one the heat-shrink is then heated forming a seal between them all. On engine looms i use doubble walled heat-shrink that has a glue inside of it. when heated the glue goes runny and the heat-shrink pulls tight making some of the glue ooze out the end. this give an almost water tight seal and prevents the PVC sleving from pulling apart over time. ill get a few more pics in the next week or so of the wiring into the switch pannel and fuse boxes.

these are both still for sale. widen the track of your Gtst and add an agressive stance. i can you wont find wheels like this as cheap. haha.

or it gives away all the info im looking for. damit.

pics or it didnt happen.

10 years in the making. theres a r32gtst here in tas that was raced for years and years that was one of the first hand full of imports to start rolling in. funny thing is 2 years ago it was still the fastest track gtst in the state and nothing had changed for the previous few. i guessing you have a bit of catch up to play and plenty of smack talk about how awsome the 20 is, haha. you forgot to add a pic or to of how good it looks now after a spay and all.

im loling at ATM even if it dosent mean what i think. haha

i would personaly go straight for a S14. the money saved over the S15 goes straight into mods. i personly like the s14 sII over the s15 but like every nissan they get better as they get newer. i think if you want somthing that spends more time on the track than in a shop or on jack stands a SR engine would be better. i know there is plenty of for and againsts for both engines but i just stink if you do the work on the car yourself the SR option is easier and cheaper and to me that means more track time. more track time equals more fun and better value for dolars. but on the flip side a mildly modded r33 GTR will probably kick the pants of the s chassis times.

cheers

A light is required as it is used as such to turn the alternator on. A small dash globe in a pilot light is what I use as its enough to do the job. An LED can also be used but it must be used in conjunction with a resistor otherwise it wont charge initialy when you start it. I have used LED's by them selves but its not perfect. the wiring is easy for the alt itself. the 2 pin plug that goes into the back is has a diagram on the alternator that should show S / L the S needs to have a battery feed and the L needs to run to one side of a pilot light and the other side of the pilot light needs to be switched on by the ignition. key on light comes on. start engine light goes out. also you will be grate full for having the light down the track when the alt shits itself you will know straight up.

post a pic of the old track. i only just strted watching and havent seen it. Geee Vetool is a tosser. same move as last round. pitty he didnt got to the rear again.

OMG did you buy another 34?

yea right well i went for nissan ones and theya re already here. the springs are the same id and od as even the rb25det ones so i just got some of them as they were the right spec for what i wanted. thanks for the offer. benny might take you up on that as hes the one with all the Jue gold.

its been a busy week. Ben and i got all of the body wiring done on his car. and a big start on the ABS wiring. i dragged the new 4 door in for what was ment to be just a lowering job. the aim with this new car is just to be a streeter and to only utilize parts that we have laying around or that are avalible vai horse trade. lowering went. found climb gear struts in the front. put kings super lows in the front. way to low. 320mm ride. then pedders in the back. way to high. "modified" the rears. then it sat ok. 335ish. then stripped a pair or Tanabe GTR shocks and used the shoter than stock springs in the front. 340mm but still a bit high and probably way to heavy on the spring rate. the aftermath of lowering stage 1 then thought id fit up a new cat. removed old one and wondered why the exhaust bracket didnt conect to the gearbox like usual. found that it is most likely a r33 exhaust bracket. cracked the shits and tried to find a r32 one in all of our spares. couldnt find one so went onto biger things. also found at the above point that the turbo was hanging on by 2 loose nuts. (should have just tightened them) decided to remove the turbo. broke the 2 coolant banjo fitting as they were old and coroded. pulled the exhaust manifold off to expose the 4 broken exhaust manifold studs. removed them tonight and got got the r33 turbo ready to go on. oh and fitted the 2nd pair of rims for the 4 door. 17x 9.5 work equips. the guards need a slight roll . they need a clean up like the other 2 but that will come later. oh and i spent most of last night playing around with the head off the race car. measuring all sorts of things to try and solve our problem. My Tuner has been grate with my head float problem and has been sending me MMS's of the kind to rectify "head" issues. but on a serious note i had a set of tomei springs lent to me to test with a bunch of others and the option was to go for some genuine nissan ones slightly modified as it cost a quarter of the price of the tomei's. one thing we learnt thoe was the tomei stuff has excelent heat caracteristics. parts have been ordered for the head and i supose it should be back together within a week.

THENIG - just some more low will sort it. and maybe a slight roll of the guards. we run r33GTR rims on one of our race cars and with decent fitting tyres and they have stock guards. the beauty with the dynamic camber on r32s is that as you go lower the more the wheel will tuck in. ive just put some 17x9.5 work equips on the back of mine. ill put a pic up shortly and get the offset tomorow as i dont know what it is.

whats that. your shipping ma some free lifters and cams? i had a think about it yesterday and wondered why all the 25/30 crew hadent had thid issue then i remembered reading in the rb25/30 how to guide about putting somthing other then stock in. will have to re read it. i did however mention that fact to my engine builder at the time and he said not to funk with it so i didnt. anyway im pretty sure were on the right path now so its just a matter of getting what i need and slapping it back together.

small update. im not sure what the end result will be but at the moment the head is off and stripped down. being a 25de head i cant just buy off the shelf valve springs so i have to remove the stocker and measure them up compared to others. and ive started restoring some new old rims for my 4 door. should give it the old school look im after with it.

thanks john let me know what you come up with.