DJRIFT

Gts-R my best effort Gts_R ok run Gts-R ben driving Gts-R with reverse section R32 GTR stu. R33 GTR came in 3rd place

i also have rears for r32 gtst. just for reference. the r32 gtst + GTR and r33 gtst and r34 gtt all share the same size rear rotor and caliper combo. but the calipers on the r34gtt may have different size mounting holes like the fronts.

Stu in his R32 GTR

got a bit of an update to come but for now heres a few Youtube links untill i learn to embed them. Finished in second Place. Beaten by an escort and Ben who was also driving finished in 5th or 6th? Fav run Ok. Ben driving

that was fun to watch team Woo. the key to that video for me was the commitment. at one point you are accelerating upto and over a crest that is then followed by a 8 right into 8 left. from the incar you cant see where the road is going over the crest but if you was reading the road (bad thing to do) you could see it was going to go left. its that commitment to keep accelerating where the average punter would go screw what the idiot to my left is saying im gona lift off that wins plastic. Also did anyone elce notice the clutch kinking, sideways action, wheels in dirt action that was closely followed by a crowd of people or fluro vested photographer?

the reason you are getting confused is that you dont understand the electrical workings of an alternator. have you ever used a battery to jump start a car (older cars) and then removed that battery and fitted the flat battery back in? when you take the battery out the engine keeps running because the alternator keeps charging. not only does it keep charging but the voltage will spike because it has no voltage reference (the battery) to tell it what voltage to regulate at. if you dont put the main battery feed off the alternator onto the battery side of the isolator than when the kill switch is turned off the engine keeps running because the alternator keeps charging. So in summary you keep the battery positive of the alternator and the battery positive of the battery on one side of the isolation switch and all the other wiring on the electronics side and it stops the completion of a circuit. the whole aim is to stop the completion of a circuit from anything that can produce a voltage. ie battery or alternator.

Ok i didnt add in the other stuff as i thought you was only confused about the alternator wiring and didnt want to clutter it all. the pic above is wrong and dont do it like that or you will have trouble. Firstly you wont get a voltage spike when you turn the isolator off when wired the way ive shown you. if you did it would be absorbed by the battery anyway as they are like a giant capacitor. have a look at the revised diagram and see if that helps.

Are they some toss worthy light weight Enkies on that 32? time for bigger brakes yet? and that picture of icy cars is a familiar site to my back year and bens GTR of the last few nights.

the point of it is to stop to much boost not to decrease power. if your car runs on 8 apples. the turbo spools up to 8 apples then it finds that A) the waste gate wont let enough apples past or B ) you have restricted boost for a comp. in point A the turbo keeps spooling to 10 apples and pop goes the engine or you add in a pop off valve and it lets 2 apples out keeping the manifold pressure at 8 apples. its not designed to let 10 apples out of the system only a few so it just regulates the boost. with only 8 apples in the system the turbo still trys to produce more but it can because they are being let out. hope that helps but its realy a question for the forced induction party not the show us your racing machines people.

Im onto this. Its hard to understand brad because he spells Fuse FUZE. Geez. my mac doesnt have paint as im afraid its far to superior. this is a hand drawn diagram of the best way to do race car isolation. i have done 20+ cars this way and saves using the gay cams spec way and as brad says it will cause you trouble in the long run. use a hella 2 pole iso switch. no cheap alternatives and a good quality fuse link. ill post some pics up tomorrow after working on bens race car. so on a r33 id put the iso switch in the boot with a cams compliant pull cable near the bottom right of the windscreen then id run a second pull cord to the dash for your own safety. put all the battery positive wiring to one side of the iso switch. make a short battery cable to go between the iso switch and and batter positive. then remove and insulate the battery wire going to the alt. run a new wire. 8 B&S cable for a long run. from the batt stud on the alternator to the battery positive side of the iso switch VIA a 100A fuse link. on R32s the 2 pin plug that goes into the alt contains a Voltage sense wire and a warning light feed. the Voltage sense wire is spliced into the wire running from the battery stud on the alt to battery positive. im unsure about r33s but if you only cut and insulate the standard r33 battery feed to the alt, when you add in the iso switch you wont upset Voltage sense wire. hope that helps

Ive just landed anew 4 door. its been about 3 years since my last one which had the east bare tail light covers. i brought them off a SAU member that had been hording them for a few years. im about to start digging around for some. if i find them ill be sure to point them out

manifold and gate sold Power FC $1000 Z32 $200

manifold and gate sold. Power Fc $1000 Z32 $200

i havent made them work yet. but the idea was to cut and shut the stock rear LCA and basically just use 2 bits or RHS welded to the LCA with adjustable holes to suit the adjustable sway bars. no simple answer realy

I made this tonight. more to come soon....

This thread always brings a tear to my eye Fatz. i love your attitude i also agree with the f u garrett. and thoes panasports are nice. they look just like a r32 gtr rim in the centre. nice.

hey simon. i would have thought you would have the .81 housing but guessing the .63 is what helps with response? im just in the process of getting a new turbo setup. manifold and gate are sorted but im trying to select the best turbo combination to keep good response. at the moment we have decided on a GT3076R with the serge compressor housing and a .63 rear. but im am concerned that it wont flow enough.

yep Kell and Aaron did a grate job yesterday just to finish. interesting to see what keel thought of the whole sit back and wait 2km for another call. i got my first off road experience yesterday. was a nice gentel drop about 3m off the side of the road into furns. best bit was only minor damage to the car.

Origin DNA-01 17x9.5 +15 pair only $500 no tyres Lenso D1R 18x10 +22 pair only. $500 no tyres Work eweings??? 16X6 +30? Nexen tyres $100

My mistake. the waste gate is 38mm not 34.

My mistake the gate is a 38mm not 34mm.

Joining me to. ill be in Aarons cousins car. the mighty blue bird. and the south of the state is a hole anyway so weathers never any good.

thanks mate do you want to buy them?

hi all Selling parts off a car im working on. all parts used but in good condition. RB26dett Power FC and hand controler. with map to suit rb20det. has been running in r32 gtst. $1100 Z32 airflow meter and plug. $250 Stainless rb20/25 high mount manifold. $100 Tial 34mm waste gate. with screamer pipe. $300 will sell as a package cheaper. perfect package for a rb20. just need injectors and a turbo and your all set. please PM or text me 0400 563 199 located in Norther Tas.

hi all Selling parts off a car im working on. all parts used but in good condition. RB26dett Power FC and hand controler. with map to suit rb20det. has been running in r32 gtst. $1100 Z32 airflow meter and plug. $250 Stainless rb20/25 high mount manifold. $100 Tial 34mm waste gate. with screamer pipe. $300 will sell as a package cheaper. perfect package for a rb20. just need injectors and a turbo and your all set. please PM or text me 0400 563 199 located in Norther Tas.