DJRIFT

so has anyone got a link to a high clair hill climb? what is the best and longest hill climb in tas?

i heard TD06'es came out standard on some r32s

is highclere up the north west? ive never done a hill climb in my car and im super keen. also keen to do the smithton cart track.

i was just trying to scare everyone into thinking that ben had progressed faster then expected. thats my rb25de head which is very similar to an rb20det head. i will make a build thread when its on and working as i dont like to boast about things untill its complete. as it was i thought it was all good to go untill i found i had left a part of the manifold off during all of my test fitting. back to the drawing board for part of it but a night in the shed with ben and i working on it and we had it all sorted. its gonna be sick. just another one to keep you all aroused

this is what Bens intake looks like. this car should have the fruit to make it go well but will it ever go?

dont get worked up about it. i mean in general to anyone looking at buying second hand tyres that thinks $200 is to much. not directed at you directly

M2 are a medium compound. ideal for club days and hill climbs. they would offer exceptional grip in the wet too. not suited for long distance like targa and alike. i have some that i will be using this weekend and i have used them before. ive always brought second hand semies and compared to $600 each $50 is cheap. cheaper than you would ever get a set of used road tyres for. if your to tight to buy $50 tyres for your race car than youll never buy new ones. we flat spotted a brand new one once and it stuffed the tyre $600 good bye.

i forgot all about the cam covers. they are Neo covers, but they have been put in to trick people. ill put some details up when the engine is finaly back and running. but for now its a Rb25de head off out of a late model r32 (so non VVT) that ive made an adapter plate up to make the entire GTR intake side fit up to. this head is very similar to an rb20 head and i will be starting on another adapter plate for Sav man soon to fit a rb20det

i made this over the past few weeks. a little hint. its a RB26 intake but its not on a rb26 motor. 6 throttle goodness.

Ok i can answer this one 100% as i have done it all to various cars. going from a 100% un touched GTST to a GTR kit. some bits may not be nessasary due to how modified your car may be anyway. Front bar. the front bar reo is different and the GTR bar wont fit without doing 1 of 2 options. Buy a genuine GTR reo bar. or cut a section out of the lower half of the front of the Gts reo bar. most people do this the gtst when fitting front mount inter coolers anyway. the points at the rear of the bar wont screw on very neatly due to the wider front guards on the GTR. to over come this i have drilled or elongated the holes in the reo bar so that it sits further forward. this pulls the sides of the bar in nicely and it all lines up. but the inner guards wont fit 100% GTR bonnet. it bolts on to the standard bonnet hinges but you need to get a GTR bonnet latch assembly that bolts between the top and bottom of the radiator support panel. the GTR latch sits about 60mm further in than the GTS bonnet latch. most people selling GTR bonnets nower days sell these at the same time. once you have the bonnet on you will also need the Grill to finish the look. but be careful as some models of the Gtst dont have the provision the hold a GTR grill on GTR rear bumper. there is no difference in the rear bumper. Rear Pods. GTRs dont normaly have rear pods ( the bit that goes on behind the rear wheel) but a lot of they time they have a trust style one. this will fit to a gtst ok. Rear wing. they fit no dramas but it is usually easier to just buy the whole boot lid with wing on it. side skirts. the genuine GTR side skirts are only pretty minimalist they are also 2- 3 pice depending between N1 or not. the only problem is the short section that goes on the front guard as the front guards kick out wards a lot in the lower section where the skirt would be fitted. because of this a Gtst skirt wont fit a GTR without a bit of work. GTR guards (if you do them) are a simple bolt on. but like above the skirt has to match the bulge in lower part of the guard. hope that helps. if i was you id be going for the GTR front bar grill an bonnet and rear wing. and gtst (also know as a type M kit) side skirts and rear pods. if the budget allowed get the GTR front guards as well as they look tuff.

my only advice is to pick the right car as a base to start with. go to a few club days and circuit days and see whats running and what you would like to be running in. ive seen a few people buy unsuitable cars and start modifying them to the hilt only to realise that it was a waste of time and money and they could have just brought a r32. BUT on the other hand if you have a passion to build a particular car and can be happy being fast in what it is than do that but dont be discouraged when you cant beat a skyline. sounds like im skyline byast? im not really

hey benny yep still have the skirts. text me on 0400 563 199 for a faster reply.

Ill be there supporting Kerry in the GTS-t. should be a good meet. ill make sure i come and see you duncan. Oh and Ben M is just being a soft C*#k. he needs to borrow Snowmans Penis pump.

Very Very nice Car. good luck with the future mods. i love the Bee R styling especially the wing, they know how to think outside the square.

sorry for the very long delay in my reply. i have been stupidly busy. anyway. yep it seems that you have all the necessary in puts that i had. As far as the crank angle sensor goes. it is the main trigger for the fuel pump. By spinning that it may switch the injectors but not necessarily the fuel pump output. the crank angle sensor puts out 2 different signals so it is possible that one of them is not working. this is however highly unlikely. just to clarify. the fuel pump out put out of the Ecu switches to ground so try putting one end of your test light (not multi-meter) on an ignition supply and the other end on the wire coming out of pin 13. the test light should only light up when the key is first put on then during cranking (or turning the CAS by hand) if you dont have this and you have the CAS switching the injectors and all the other inputs and out puts than i would be looking for a new ECU. As a further test you should also be able to test for spark when turning the CAS by hand. To add to a question you added earlier im not sure if being an auto makes any difference but i would assume not as the latter model skylines (33 34 ) have separate transmission ECU's

Ben, your house is currently more modified than your car. hurry up and order the new rims. in Bronze

i know this wont help but if you can stay away from teil coppies and turbo smart gates as they both prone to failure.

I think after haveing a r32 and having worked on multiple r33s and r34s that i would grab a r33 for circuit if i had to pick. the reasons why. r32s while being cheap in general (if you get a cheap one) are usually over priced and they are slowly being thinned out with not to manny cheap race only ones getting about. R33s are more so common to the average punter than a r32 meaning more parts slowly comming through the system. Plus i have seen some stupidly cheap good r33s for sale. R33 has better suspension geometry front and rear than the r32, front end mainly. R33 has better fuel tank placement. R33 has slightly bigger brakes but not really worth keeping. R33 has the best nissan gear box. that alone should settle it. The weight difference between the r32 and 33 is probably only the difference in the gear box but if you put a 25 box in your 32 than there goes the weight difference. the diffs are simmilar in strength and design. somthing the R34 lacks The rb25 is a lot better base than the 20 for circuit work. the rb20 is so lazy off boost and has limited torque. any way thats just a few things to help you with toffy.

hey guys. i was fitting up some bits tonight to an experimental exercise and found i need a GTR fuel rail. one locally and cheap would be ideal. thanks damo

Ok Fuel pump. Most if not all nissans switch power to the fuel pumps not earth through the relay. pins 30 and 87 of the relay are usually power and out put to fuel pump. pin 85 would have ignition or battery and pin 86 is switched to ground by the ecu. all nissan ecu switch a ground signal for the fuel pump. i only listed the output of the ecu which switches to ground as if you are doing a conversion i would assume you would be putting in new wiring for the fuel pump or wiring it into the existing fuel pump relay. i would simply disregard the r34 fuel pump relay and only use the switched output. second thing you need to do. you need to be switching the ignition relay so you need 2 of the 3 relays to work. what you need to do now you have the diagrams is print off a pin out of the ecu and write down all the pins that need to have battery, switched ignition and earth. check them with a test light and any that dont have the correct feed you need to trace them back and find why there is no power on that wire. pin numbers 109, 80 are battery. pins 4,24,31,67,72 are ignition pins 115,124,2532 need earth. try them to start with then see where you are?

you will hardly notice the steering. but the idea is and its explained in the hicas removal page is that you remove the hicas lines ect then you will have the hicas warning light on on your dash. this is turned on by the hicas computer which is mounted upside down under the parcel shelf. most people disconnect the computer which interferes with the speed sensitive steering. to keep the speed sensitive steering there is one wire that turns the light on. you simply cut that wire and leave the rest plugged in and walla no light and the speed sensitive steering still works. have a quick look through the tutorials as i think i put the wire colour to cut in the R32 hicas removal thread. Ben will be running a R33 pump which if mated to the rb20 harmonic balancer will be heavy anyway. Are R33 boxes allowed in Tugga Benny? i got ben a super cheap 20 box but id never run one if i had the chance after having a 25 box. i flat shift mine and all sorts, mainly because im unco and cant drive but its pretty cool when mid drift i can slam it from 4th to 3rd with no clutch. the 25 box is also massively bigger in size and weight and im not sure a Rb2o would have enough torque to get going. LOL

Ok i thought you may have found this free to down load diagram. i didnt realise you didnt have a diagram. in hind sight i should have added that in. down load from this link http://pdftown.com/PDF-Nissan-Skyline-R34-...ice-Manual.html there is basic engine wiring diagram that i worked off. I simply added in the wire colours and worked out what was needed for a basic install. Ok so that may help but what i can tell you is that you need the 6 pin relay to be powered up. it needs battery on pins 1, 3, 6, output 7 powers up the ignition coils, output 5 is switched power to the ecu and out put 2 switches the relay on via the ecu. one of the 2 others will be the factory fuel pump relay. pin 13 is the switching feed from the ecu to the relay so i used that to switch the standard fuel pump relay in the car i was working on. and the other relay will be the ignition relay witch suplies a switched feed to the ecu. pin 1 should have ignition positive on it, pin 2 should have ground, pin 3 battery and pin 5 is the switched output. two thoughts about the issue you are having. have you tried cranking the engine and seeing if the fuel pump primes then or atleast switches the wires? And have you tried bridging out the S14 fuel pump relay so it will pump then seeing if the engine will start and run? Also is this a known engine and ecu? we had to get a different ECU as we were getting a funny injector pulse output out of the one supplied. Basic diagnostics: If (if) the wiring is correct and still no fuel pump out put. Try bridging out fuel pump so you have fuel pressure ect. try starting the engine. providing it runs than the fault is in the ecu. If the engine does not run and wiring is correct than check the feeds to the crank angle sensor. pin 1 ground, pin 2 ignition positive. 3 and 4 are output sign wave. the CAS is what switches the fuel pump on. To add to this we currently have an r34 in at work so i can check some things out on it if need be but i have been out on field work most of this week and cant get near it.

Hi Simon. this is a good question to ask as it may help others. after looking over the wiring diagram i have found i left somthing out. there is a bunch of engine ancillaries that have a common ignition feed. this feed needs to come from the ignition switch through a 10Amp fuse on to a common wire. i dont have the wire colour listed as i must have done it and not marked it on my diagram. So what you need to do to find this wire colour is. find the common colour that goes to the variable valve timing solenoid, the AAC valve, turbo pressure control valve (factory boost controller) and oxygen censor. there is more but you should find a common colour between the four of them. that same colour wire should be found in one of the dash multi-plugs. power that up with ignition and see if if it changes your fuel pump situation. you will need to do this bit of wiring anyway so wire it in and report back with your findings. if you can please note the wire colour than i will add it into the first post. i do apologies for missing it off as it was a few months after doing the job that i wrote this up, and i only put in the info that i could remember 100% other wise its just more useless info for people to sift through.

hey toffy. im not sure that Stu can help you as even thoe its called Targa class its not really based on Targa rules. its just a Class that anything can be entered into. From my understanding there is no rules bar the times it does. Cars can have any sort of turbo, any size rims/ brakes and any type of rubber on them. if you wanted to travel around Aus racing than this isnt really a class nation wide so you would be better off getting into improved production or super sedans. But if you want to race a car that makes you happy in the way it is built than this is the class for you. Id personally love to run a Jap car thats got massive aero ect ect things that arent allowed in other classes.

i moan at less than that Benny. anyway this has taken a backwards step. Bens away thats why he isnt in on the action in here. NO rain free weekends in the near future forecast so the progress is gonna be slowed right down.