DJRIFT

i just fell off my seat does he moan like a girl to?

good looking car ben. i miss all the damage thoe. its just to straight. oh and dont show any cage builders that pic because your A pillar bar is all wrong. i jokes with you.

i didnt want to get to descriptive because older men prowling the forums may find his feminine features attractive and want to buy him as a lady boy. that was only once and i was picking your sister up for a quickie.

half the contents of Bens gearbox is now all over the carpet in my wagon. Missus wasnt happy. but its the second time because i carted an engine with oil in it once and it fell over. same mess different day. Oh and so every one can picture Ben in there minds. think of a 14 year old boy. lol. i think its cheating.

Geez you dont see thoes headlight ducts very often. top buy for some one looking for that kind of thing. i resorted to the hard way and made one myself. and i love the look of the do luck rear bars.

yea the story told over the commentary only moments later was way off what the evidence shows. i didnt stay around after that thoe.

plenty of chicks driving skylines up north. more driving S chassis cars thoe.

should be 180 like all jap cars

hey all. Need to fund the rest of my years motor sport and house deposit in one. i have 2 door side skirts in gunmetal colour. they need repainting due to stone chips from race tyres. $100 RB25de head off a r32. these are the ideal head for ease of the 25/30 combo. they bolt straight up so no extra machine work. its basicly a bare head. looking for $550ono Rb25de Neo head. i have recently learnt that these heads are better than the r33 rb25det heads for the 25/30 for 2 reasons. they have a lower cc rating giving them better compression ratios and they have solid lifters which are worth a mint on their own. Solid lifters allow for bigger cams to be used eg over 9mm lift. this is all what i have been told and i can not 100% verify any of it bar the lifters. $400 missing some parts GTR rods. these came with a pulled down block as spares. no need for them now. unsure of their usage but in good nick. can be used in Rb25dets as a good cheap replacement. $60 Sparco seat in good nick for age. im a 100kg 6 foot bloke and it was a bit tight fitting. $300 r32 after market seat rail. is meant to be adjustable but i think it needs repair. $50 or both for $320

i really need to move these wheels and other bits. if you have any interest in the wheels send me a Pm with an offer. price drop to $600 on the origins and $100 on the 16" work rims

is this daves black GTS4?

well that paints a very clear picture of what happened. that was very untidy. i thought the RX7 cam out of it clean but it appears my eyes were not working as well as they should have been. fec that would have been scary for nunn having a rotor fly backwards into your way. and that rotor could have ended up a lot worse the way it went through the traffic. thanks wools. PS wools you need a far better shift light arrangement. i sagest putting it up on top of the dash as thoes over revs will hurt you one day.

Hey Woolly. i came out for a look today. i haven't been to a TSS round all year due to not running a crewing for our car this year. i love the look of your car and the CR Kai's are porn. im very pleased to see some people finaly trying to make a jap car look like a jap car and not using rubbish bits on them. The r33 gtst has to be one of the most under rated cars for circuit racing. I wish i liked them enough to want to own one because there is some really cheap ones around now but they all follow such a bland Wog spec look. anyhow was you close to getting caught up in that crash today? any idea what happened.

Im picking Bens new diff up this weekend. its top secret thoe. and we should be into the wiring soon enough.

Kiran, this could go on for ever so for the sake of the topic its over for me.

It would appear that i did get the incorrect story then but even still Yes its saved his life but given that supras have such a sloped A pillar and are known to squash flat in roll overs this would be a prime example to go for double front legs and or maybe tagged off to the body. its a good example to show that CAMS say this is the minimum requirement, but is it really. I deliberately didnt mention any names as i wasnt looking to bad mouth any body just making a point. the point is that maybe the cage builder should have said this wont be safe enough. the car was entered in targa tas only months before this crash, imagine what it may have been like after seeing it go off the road at over 200km/h instead of 70 or 80. simply making the point of safety not who make what cage. i i understand that it may be all the tight ass owner wanted to spend but if i was building safety cages for peoples safety i would be saying the minimum will do. i look at it like the basic cage is only good for basic entry level track work. and if your crazy enough to throw your self at big trees being gravel or tarmac rally then you need more than basic. i know plenty of people that run less than adequate cages in targa but that their own choice and not mine so i make these points from my interpretation of a safety cage. Roy i was totally surprised by how light the proper roll cage material is. you will save more than 30KG with carbon doors and you would probably put in about 10kg extra in bars. the main point that i see is that the roll cage is still safer than the structure of the door if its on the track or in the bush its worth having.

i really dont need to justify my cage but any how. yep the front legs were to short so thats where they ended up. only bad point about the cage. but once in the drivers seat you can clearly see that it actual lines up perfectly with the A pillar to not block the view out the window. it is then also tagged off to the A pillar with plates like numerous cages are.

i dont even want to get into the debate in this thread as its a never ending circle as its up to every ones own perception of the CAMS manual. i think so long as you are happy to get in it if you have designed or built it yourself than that is the main thing. if you have gotten a workshop to build it for you because you cant/ havent got the time ect than you just hope that they know what they are doing. its just like getting an engine built. on will say do it this way while another will say do it that way. if you cant do it yourself than have faith in the builder. Having faith in the builder will come from how many cages they have built / any accidents that have had. In SAV MANs case the builder has built many cages in all sorts of cars and started out building them for rallys so Trees was the main concern. I questioned him at the time about why things are done what way and he answered with all the right reasons. i Know that a cage was built by a new Hobart bloke a while back in a supra and the front leg collapsed as it rolled down a hill and crushed the blokes finger on the steering wheel. its bad enough having a crash but watching the cage crumble around you as you are crashing isnt a good sight. RAZOR32. here is a diagonal roof bar in a 2 door gtst. i am just as tall as you and i have mounted my seat super low. my head fits in the triangle formed by the main hoop, front leg and the roof bar. if i did it again i would just put a straight bar between the seats between the hoop and the front window bar. Drawing 253-9D in the cams manual. or Drawing 253-9C in the cams manual. there is no way in hell i would drive a car with a bar directly above my head like the Drawings 253-9A and B ive put it in as its just that bit more safety. also with a r32 cage try to get the front legs out to the side of the body as far as possible as my as the front leg is the only annoying part with my helmet on. by front leg i mean where it joins to the hoop. also no one considers putting bars in the floor to help with side impacts that gives you an idea but is not realy what i mean. i mean a pice of roll cage material between the seal panel and the g box tunnel. ive seen plenty of floor pans crumple with side impact.

i have a pair of CST hyper zeroes and they have the best inner diameter clearance of any of my wheels. i think they would be one of the better options as the spokes taper from the centre out and and dont pull back in like uras and nismo rims. these are available in a 18 x 9.5 +15 offset so should cover brakes and through the right sources they are about $600 a wheel delivered. the front ones. mine are 17 x 9.5 +15

haha, thats right they dont have enough power to knock. jokes jokes

Most rb20 guys if they know it can be done will put in a RB26dett power FC. you cant go past one for ease and cost. untill you get into the top end nothing comes close. they display knock - not many others will. the hand controller is fing porn and handy. if you run the rb26 one over the AP engineering item you can run the air intake temp sensor that will detune the car as it heats up allowing to tune the car more aggressively to temperature. i could go on but im out of time. oh and Not on the cage. i think ben got it made with a small opening so i cant fit in it as im getting fatter and fatter. lol

What ben is trying to say is he is gonna see if he can weld better than me then if not ill be seem welding 2 cars. or he can come and finish mine off. unfortunately my seam sealer had a special one way water absorbing quality. every where it is the rust will follow.

ill see what i can do. im starting a haltech full engine loom rewire saturday so ill try and take some pics of how things are done. you dont need relays on the electric windows. good quality switches will do the job just fine. its more so in the wire. if you are going any distance with the wires than you should use a minimum of 5mm wire.

Ok so ive put this in this section as i was un able to post in the DIY FAQ section and am very grate full that i didnt loose this in the process of finding that out so please move this to a relevant space Second this info is to be used at your own use and i take no responsibility for any of this info being incorrect. use it at your own risk. So after searching all over the net i realised its near in possible to get any wiring info for the R34 GTT RB25det Neo engine. I recently Did the wiring conversion in an un-named car for a customer/friend and this is the information i pieced together and put into action to make the Neo engine run off its own engine management. when we started we had no idea if it would work given the lack of inputs we had to use as far as sensors for the traction control and other other possible issues faced with the R34 GTT. First off my example is i was given a car with a Rb25det Neo engine with its original engine wiring loom and ecu. No R34 dash loom or other wiring was supplied. the info i will post is the parts i needed to wire in to get the car to start and run on the factory ecu. The engine was never checked on a dyno to make sure everything was sweet but its pretty easy to tell. I am also not sure if you plugged into this newly modified loom if a plug and play ecu would work. i can not see why a Apexi power FC of a haltech plug and play would not work but we did not go as far as to test this and i no longer have access to the car to try any of the above. What you need to start with is the ECU pin out and the basic engine management wiring diagram found in the R34 GTT work shop manual that is floating around the web. If i get a chance i will update this thread with the 3 pages i had to work with whist doing this. Basic wiring Wires that need Batter positive. White / Black White / Green.... both of these wires are found in a plug on the engine side of the the fire wall Grommet. they splice off just near the fire wall grommet. these wires need a 10A fuse each. They both go to the ECM and Ignition coil relay and also supply power to pins 80 and 109 of the ECU plug Yellow / Red... this wire will be found on the inside of the fire wall grommet (what would usualy be inside thecabin of the car) and goes to the main Ignition Relay. this needs to go through a 50A fuse link. Wires that need Ignition (key on) supply Dark Green... this wire will be found in one of the inside "dash" plugs. it needs to see Ignition via a switch (key) and turns on the main ignition relay. Un known colour..... Pin 24 on the ECU plug needs an ignition Feed through a 10A fuse. the wire coming out of Pin 24 is Common to the power side of the injectors so do not cut this wire out of the loom. if you find you have no power to the injectors please trace that wire back and put power on it (un known colour) Wires to put to ground un known colours.... ECU pins 25, 32, 115 and 124 all need a direct body earth. By this stage if you mark the supply types onto the ECU pin out diagram you should end up with Batter on pins 80 and 109. Ignition on pins 4, 24, 31, 64 and 72. And Earths on 25, 32, 115 and 124 that will get the engine running provided all things like crank angle sensor map sensor ect are plugged in and working fine. Other handy to know pin outs and wire colours. Pin 13 Most important. this output is the ground signal used to turn on the fuel pump relay. Pin 20 Start feed from Key. Pin 5 is Tacho out put. Be carfull with this. the tacho output is week and will not drive a standard off the shelf after market tacho. the dash in the R34 GTT is electronic and does not need to see the same voltages that the average tacho works off. i would expect that digital tachos such as the Apexi RSM should work. VDO also do a tacho that will run off it and if you can find a VDO workshop in Aus near you they can modify a stock tacho using VDO parts. Gear box wiring. Orange and Black wires = speed sensor. Unsure of wave form but once again they should work on an Apexi RSM. Red and Green / Yellow = Reverse Light Switch Yellow / Violet and Black = Neutral switch. even the manual boxes have a neutral switch which and be utilised when wiring remote start and turbo timers to stop andy in gear accidents. Ok so i hope that has helped in some way. im more than happy to answer questions but like i said at the start i no longer have access to the car so i can not check anything elce. i have no idea what any other wires ect do or go as the job did not require me to work them out or wire them in. the car has been running fine for quite some time now with no drams and i will update this with further info if i come across it.

Ok so firstly i hope this section will be sutable. Second this info is to be used at your own use and i take no responsibility for any of this info being incorrect. use it at your own risk. So after searching all over the net i realised its near in possible to get any wiring info for the R34 GTT RB25det Neo engine. I recently Did the wiring conversion in an un-named car for a customer/friend and this is the information i pieced together and put into action to make the Neo engine run off its own engine management. when we started we had no idea if it would work given the lack of inputs we had to use as far as sensors for the traction control and other other possible issues faced with the R34 GTT. First off my example is i was given a car with a Rb25det Neo engine with its original engine wiring loom and ecu. No R34 dash loom or other wiring was supplied. the info i will post is the parts i needed to wire in to get the car to start and run on the factory ecu. The engine was never checked on a dyno to make sure everything was sweet but its pretty easy to tell. I am also not sure if you plugged into this newly modified loom if a plug and play ecu would work. i can not see why a Apexi power FC of a haltech plug and play would not work but we did not go as far as to test this and i no longer have access to the car to try any of the above. What you need to start with is the ECU pin out and the basic engine management wiring diagram found in the R34 GTT work shop manual that is floating around the web. If i get a chance i will update this thread with the 3 pages i had to work with whist doing this. Basic wiring Wires that need Batter positive. White / Black White / Green.... both of these wires are found in a plug on the engine side of the the fire wall Grommet. they splice off just near the fire wall grommet. these wires need a 10A fuse each. They both go to the ECM and Ignition coil relay and also supply power to pins 80 and 109 of the ECU plug Yellow / Red... this wire will be found on the inside of the fire wall grommet (what would usualy be inside thecabin of the car) and goes to the main Ignition Relay. this needs to go through a 50A fuse link. Wires that need Ignition (key on) supply Dark Green... this wire will be found in one of the inside "dash" plugs. it needs to see Ignition via a switch (key) and turns on the main ignition relay. Un known colour..... Pin 24 on the ECU plug needs an ignition Feed through a 10A fuse. the wire coming out of Pin 24 is Common to the power side of the injectors so do not cut this wire out of the loom. if you find you have no power to the injectors please trace that wire back and put power on it (un known colour) Wires to put to ground un known colours.... ECU pins 25, 32, 115 and 124 all need a direct body earth. By this stage if you mark the supply types onto the ECU pin out diagram you should end up with Batter on pins 80 and 109. Ignition on pins 4, 24, 31, 64 and 72. And Earths on 25, 32, 115 and 124 that will get the engine running provided all things like crank angle sensor map sensor ect are plugged in and working fine. Other handy to know pin outs and wire colours. Pin 13 Most important. this output is the ground signal used to turn on the fuel pump relay. Pin 20 Start feed from Key. Pin 5 is Tacho out put. Be carfull with this. the tacho output is week and will not drive a standard off the shelf after market tacho. the dash in the R34 GTT is electronic and does not need to see the same voltages that the average tacho works off. i would expect that digital tachos such as the Apexi RSM should work. VDO also do a tacho that will run off it and if you can find a VDO workshop in Aus near you they can modify a stock tacho using VDO parts. Gear box wiring. Orange and Black wires = speed sensor. Unsure of wave form but once again they should work on an Apexi RSM. Red and Green / Yellow = Reverse Light Switch Yellow / Violet and Black = Neutral switch. even the manual boxes have a neutral switch which and be utilised when wiring remote start and turbo timers to stop andy in gear accidents. Ok so i hope that has helped in some way. im more than happy to answer questions but like i said at the start i no longer have access to the car so i can not check anything elce. i have no idea what any other wires ect do or go as the job did not require me to work them out or wire them in. the car has been running fine for quite some time now with no drams and i will update this with further info if i come across it.