DJRIFT

Hey Duncan and anyone elce. im more than happy to help with even the smallest questions as this site and particular members have helped my projects along nicely over the past 3 years. The Deutsch plugs are by far the best plugs to use for almost everything bar the main battery and earth circuits. we have used many different types of weather proof and non weather proof plug sets and brands and if i could i would use them all the time. cost thoe doesnt allow it at work. I would be able to supply a Deutsch plug kit that comes with a host of different sized plugs (pine wise) and the special crimp tool. Deutsch plugs are the most common used plug on earth moving and heavy machinery. CAT and other brands have all their plugs supplied to them by Deutsch. plus they are small and light. thoes other pugs you have listed duncan would be good for going through a sealed fire wall but they are designed to be put on things that do limited movement and i would be concerned that that with a ruff ride they would brake the solder join off the back of them. i still think rubber grommets are the bast way through a solid point in a car as the wiring needs to be able to move. when it is tight in one spot and loose in another that is where a brake will occur.

Ok i though i might jump in as this is one topic i can add detailed info into. For a change. I do this sort of thing for a living, im an auto sparky and on the side myself and 2 other auto sparkys do full on car rewires right down to the custom haltech, motech, and numerous ignition systems there are. Its always a hard one to decide. most people dont see the value in spending $$$$ to get a race car rewired or do they realise the outcome of using crappy products. I have fixed of replaced little things like dodgy glass fuse holders only days out from events like targa tas one important circuits like teratrips. Myself and the 2 others have race car. i only have a few pics of my car as i rarely like to do anything eletrical to my own car. the other 2 have a dirt rally car and between us we have decided in most cases the best way to wire up race cars that still utilise most factory things ie. rally cars is to just strip the standard loom down. we do this for a few reasons. you can utilise all the standard plugs that 80% of the time you cant get. you cant buy small enough wiring in enough wire colours easily. the weight of replacing a factory loom with 2.5mm or 3mm wire gives no weight advantage. and often the factory wiring is better. This will also be the case with SAV MANs tarmac rally car as we will be stripping down the factory loom but also moving a lot of the components. after pulling all his loom out we found that the fuse boxes are the heaviest parts which we will change but still connect the factory loom to. most of the r32 loom can be stripped out and tossed in the bin with no troubles at all. For a circuit only car its a bit different as most people run very basic accessories so it doesnt take much to wire them up. For the best trouble shooting you have to fuse every thing individually. you can buy resettable circuit breakers that fit into blade fuse holders like the ones shown. if there is a short it will pop and you simply push it to reset it yourself. this may save frustration in blowing and replacing fuses. below is 2 pics of the switching side of my car. thus far its basic as stuff was only added as necessary. i have retained factory head lights wipers and indicator switches but these will soon be replaced as i will be spacing my seat back to a point i cant reach the factory switches. the RnD on the stuff i have used is as follows. i find glare and sunlight to be a pain in the ass big time on a circuit so Key warning lights lights have to be mounted hight and covered from the sun. in the first pick you can see a red pilot light in amounts the gauges (far right) this is the Oil PSI light and it has a 10w globe so it is really bright. if this thing comes on during the day it gets your attention quick smart. in thoes gauges i also have a fuel PSI light and that has a built in warning light and buzzer. i am a very big fan of gauges with warning lights as i find on the circuit i am to concentrating on every thing around be so i never check the gauges i just wait for them to flash at me. this bog pilot light may not look pretty but it is the most robust type you will find in the automotive range. The pilot lights in the centre console also have globes in them as i have previously no had a good run with the LED versions and they are not bright enough. the ones in the centre are for non essential things like hand brake and fuel level low indicators. another example of the ease of using the stock loom as all these pilot lights can be tapped into the old dash wiring. these lights are good but they are pretty easy to pull apart meaning thay will fall apart. the switches i love to death. they have a LED in the end to show you that there is power going through the switch. and to let you know its on. these are good switches but they are still not 100% perfect. i have had one LED fail in not much time working. that may be a one off thoe. like all of these products leave enough wiring and tie the wires going to a component off well so that the weight of the wires and loom is not on the connection of the component. now im going to just add some comments to duncans post as it has heaps of detail. one last ting duncan is that it is a must that you put a fuse link in the alternator circuit to protect form reverse polarity if noting elce. theres no better way to fry your alternator althoe im not really handy with adding picture links if you are after a product i amy be able to take a pic and put it on here. i also have access to most of the products listed and can probably help you out with cheaper pricing on some parts. im also not i a position to take pictures of the work we have done or how we do it as i cant get access to the cars we have done. and ive never thought it would be worth taking pics of wires. hope that helps im not trying to tell you how to do it just adding advice.

did the bar vents go? if not ill take them.

in some categories of motor sport penetration to the boot are not allowed. safest bet.

PM sent

That is a lot dearer that Bond. just a heads up. as i know this thread is not about who to buy them off but how to go about building them. but shop around as there is a few places that are around the same price as bond now. I have just done this myself. im not a welder or machinist by trade but i can weld ok so i set about a bond weld in cage. I got the kit all labeled ect from bond. i then started on it and it was a far more daunting task than i had imagined. i had a few friend that had built cages come and give me a hand working it all ot but it soon became apparent that i had not done enough research on cage design and had not decided fully what i wanted. this meant that i was on the phone again ordering more pipe work to finish it off as i had added a few more "chassis strengthening" bars. It took me about 4 weeks from the start to finish doing a few hours every night and i was working to a time schedule to get to another event in the car. after i had spent some wheel time in the car i then picked a few more faults with it and as it hasnt been log booked yet i will add the extra bits in when i get a chance. so key things i learnt as a real amature. Get the windows removed. it can be done with them in but not advisable. Get some one that knows how to weld to do it. I got a welder mate to do it. far better job Go to track days or any where where you can look at 10s of cages at once and take notes on what bits you like and dont like then talk to the drivers and ask them what they would change. do your research even if you are taking it to a pro to do the job as they may do somthing that when explained you may think thats grate but when you pick up the car and start driving it you think gee thats a pain in the ass. That last point i like as through my job i work on race cars frequently and its just getting in and out that shows the clever design and the not so clever.

Did i read some where else that there was a group buy or a-such on the cylender head oil drains? can some one point me in the direction of the bits i need? thanks

once you decide then you need to do a group buy on electronic damper controls. in cabin adjustable damper and rebound for the win. My engine bay now looks like Bens. to keep it in the team spirit. As ben has had few updates i will update that he has been helping me a lot.

Hey damo we would have a passenger door. with mirror and rim ect. i have an immaculate r32gtr cooler core. and we could provide a rad support if need be. some of the other things are easier to be brough new. windows are cheap. front bars are cheap through nissan. and SPG in hobart have a pair of headlights.

Hey damo we would have a passenger door. with mirror and rim ect. i have an immaculate r32gtr cooler core. and we could provide a rad support if need be. some of the other things are easier to be brough new. windows are cheap. front bars are cheap through nissan. and SPG in hobart have a pair of headlights.

Origin DNA 01 wheels as shown in pic in gun metal colour with polished lip. size 17x9.5 +15 5 stud only im chasing $650 firm as they are in like new condition second image they are the ones on the left i have a pair of brand new Federal 595 super steel tyres 235 45 17 that can go with the sale for an extra 200. that is they are brand new. happy to deal on price with freight costs ect $200 for the lot is just stupid. they are near new rims and brand new tyres and if you would like a full set i can provide you with the store details that will happily sell you another pair. work wheels are 16x6 around +30 offset 5 stud only. they are a true 3 pice rim. centers have been painted black. and have a polished lip in usual condition for an old rim. sorry i only have crap pics of them at the moment but some better ones will be up soon. they are the back rims on both pics. they also have a 25mm spacer and the guards needed to be roller slightly looking for $200 ono with 50% nexen tyres. also have a pair of 25mm 5 stud bolt on wheel spacers with all nuts. not sure what these are worth second hand. $100 ono

damo when the time comes we should be able to help out. we have a few doors ect. oh and i also have a GTR rear wing.

i have one. pm me the price ect and postal address

after having a chat with a bloke last night i realised that Cat 7 car had this comming as they arent a a classic car really as the year 83-90 is really the the birth of Electronic fuel injection, ABS trac control ect so they were sure to be out front compared to most of the classic cars. that said its nothing new for targa to change its rulles and move goal posts frequently. we are only into 2nd year of AASA and while things are all sweet now how long before it goes back to CAMS. it may never but it could happen. just have a quick chat to Barry Oliver and he will point out all the major changes targa has gone through over the years. i suppose its its own sport really and the heads make the rules. anyhow id be more likely not to enter because of all the cheating blokes in this years events and especially how it was all handled. i say bring back CAMS so there is some firm guide lines and cars are actually checked.

thats right kel. it sux balls that the r32 gets a caining all the time. but on a serious not anyone i meet and talk to about motor sport i tell them they just couldnt go past a r32 gtst to start out in. in the tassy circuit racing series there is 6 r32gtst ready to roll. (they are never all there) and with mine not far off being log booked and bennys car that will make 8 in the state rady to roll at any one time. plus the workshop in i only counted 1 of the 2 cars that could be entered if need be. so over 9 cars for tassy motor sport. Ben was telling me today about the targa ruling and its balls. i have very little respect in some forms of octagon as they are happy to let CHEATING f#@ks in every where but change the rules so that the people that have a chance cant have a chance. simple as that.

what was the story with the silvia? dod you crash it or was it a parts car? and how much for the parts Bitch VEry Nice

not being smart Risking but you should check those CAMS manual drawing numbers you quoted. drawings 253-3 and 253-3A neither have a diagonal in the main hoop, only in the rear section. Ive just completed my own cage and for a first timer its fing way to hard to interoperate the CAMS manual to do with cages. i had 2 or 3 other people come and give me there opinion of what they though it ment then i went n building. I was with Ben when we dropped his car off and i asked YT the same thing as i thought at the time that you had to have a diagonal in the main hoop. once you look at the cage an the way it is built you can see that its just as safe and better in a weight balance situation.

I have run these (not the GK tech ones) in my car both on the street and in my track car. the main reason that mechanics will fit stuff to track cars and not street cars is that track cars generally looked over and checked many times more often than street cars. my track car is put on jack stands as soon as it its put back in the shed and i generally have a good look over it in between events. this is the same reason that rose joints are not recommended for street cars. as they are not designed to do 20 or 30,000 kms a year and they ware really fast with road grime ect. i ran all rose jointed arms in the back of my road skyline a few years back and it was a pain in the ass every few weeks having to re-lube them as they would start to squeak an groan. i have thoes arms in my track car now and they would be lucky to have done 10,000kms and they are shagged. i know that some of that is irrelevant but it gives you another aspect to look at when he says No. plus you really are stretching the the design of the steering rack and steering arms. its will increase the chance of braking if you say hit a big pot hole. and i have a real life experience. a performance car workshop owner friend of mine wrote off his 180sx when the steering rack spacer undone itself and sent him backwards off a public road doing around 140km/h. he swears to never fit them.

And your getting 2 EDFC's so you can control bump and rebound separate on each corner (of the car) to suit the conditions of each stage Yep is sure as hell pissed me off as these cars are built for race. simple rule. if it doesnt have a cage it goes in the projects page. i will back any calls to move it back thats grate news. I bet your dad just wants it out of the shed.

hi mate i am assuming you have a r32? if so i have both rear tail lights and i may have a left hand mirror but i would have to check. PM me if you want a contact number. oh and i am also located in launceston

i was thinking MIG. i forgot to mention when looking at it. you can do a sweet job with a mig if you have the know how.

your first sentence has your answer to all that its classic Adelaide. full of cheater spec cars from every report i have ever heard. and most of them are over the top obvious. i believe from my interpretation of the rules that GTR front bar and wing are allowed to be run even under CAMS as you are allowed to put the top level areo kit from that model of car on it. so GTR wing N1 rear lip. GTR bonnet and N1 bonnet lip and GTR grill and GTR front Bar as its all "Areo" no body kit.

that pretty much sums up why i left it off. my interest was in the best club level tracks as i am a long way off turing Aus folling IP or some thing similar. thanks for the feed back so far. im pleased it generated a bit of interest.

i was looking at some pics the other night and i noticed a pic of a r32GTR defuser. i was going to put it up as another example of could be done but then as i searched back through for your first pic of yours i realsed its the same design. anyway have you fitted and tried this yet? im gessing not as you havent had any recent updates. or are you still awaiting a clutch? thanks for the info. i had read past and missed this originally. one more question. water and dust ect is not a major concern when putting holes in the bell housing? i tend to go off road a bit in mine and its never a suprise where mud and water can get. sorry to hijack merli

I know this is an old post but thought i might throw in some info for people looking. My team mate had a street tuned R33 last year and it was grate fun to drive. i drove it both on the street and on track and i liked it. if you are an Average australian built bloke or bigger you may find it much more comfy over the s13 and r32s. i currently have a R32 and it has a rb25 and gearbox in it but i was neally contemplating swapping it for this year with my team mate as i loved it so much. A few facts. they have the same steering rack as an S14 which is rumored to have more lock than other nissans (this is false. as we compared S14 to other nissans) so even without the lock spacers that i had in my r32 the r33 had more lock. The front suspension setup is far more advanced that that of the r32. the geometry of the front end can allow you to achieve a lot more grip. The rear sub frame is the same or be it similar to S14 and R34 which offers far more grip than the R32. The car we had ran a hiflow turbo which is by far the worst thing you can ever do to one. it was lagy then it dropped power off far to much. a HKS2530 would be ideal for tight stuff and learning as they come on so strong but they are limited to around 230rwkw. somthing out of the new GT30 series of garrets would be ideal once you had the basics. a friend of mine has a GT30 somthing on a rb25 in r32 and it is pretty off tap. oh then RB25 engines can produce a safe 260rwkw and with forgies the sky is the limit. or 300 rwkw. the gearbox is tuff as funk. i flat shift with mine both during drift and circuit. the diff ect is good but they really need a good LSD as we had endless problems with shimming the stock diff. and the hand brake is a let down. once a gain we had issues there and all that was needed then was hydro hand brake. so once you have spent a year or so involved with drifting and taking to top level drifters you will learn that the things that an r33 has on it will be a massive advantage. But i i was going to get another drift car i would get a S14 as they have so much after market support ist not funny.