DJRIFT

if you have checked every coil out and you have put a new loom and plugs in than im pretty sure spark is covered. id still be looking for injection pulse to all the injectors or even be swapping the injectors as they may be shagged. the reason i mentioned them as the front 3 and back 3 injectors are wired kind of seperate so it stands out to me if you are having trouble with 3 of them. they all share a common ignition feed which is 12v on a white with black trace wire. the loom has this main wire comming through to the front 3 injectors where it splices off into 4. 3 wires to the front injectors and 1 wire to a plug at the front of the engine that then turns pack on its self and splices into 3 agin to the rear 3 injectors. all the injectors are then earthed through the ecu individualy and are white wires with coloured traces. also have you tried a different ignition modual as i have have them fail on 3 cylenders only before. so maybe the front 3 coil packs arent even being swithched. to check that they are all being switched. Use a test light not a multimetre. Unplug all the coils. check they all have ignition power to them. Put one end of test light on battery earth and the other in the coil pack plug. (should be the red wire that you have ignition on) check they all have an earth. Put one end of the test light to battery positive and probe each coil plug. (should be the black wire) then leaving the test light on battery positive and put the other end in the pin in the coil pack plug left. (should be white wire) now get a friend to crank over the car and the test light should flicker on and off. do it to each coil pack plug and you will then know that all the right spark stuff is happening. then look at the fuel.

seems you have checked over the spark side of things. now try the fuel? chesk or swap over the injectors. check all the wiring surounding the injectors for broken or dirty plugs and wires. are you using the old origional loom? just a few starters.

sold pending payment for the asking price.

For sale is my current Race Only R32 drift car. Im not sure whats in the pipe line for me but if someone would like my car more than me they are welcome to buy it so i can move onto some of my other life goals. I an in no rush or need to sell it at the moment as the sale of this car will decide my next step. I am not going to list all of the mods just some basics as i would profer interested buyers to contact me on here via PM or by phone on 0400 563 199 so we can talk about it in depth. or even come and view it for yourself. Basic mods. Rb25de+T very responsive, hight comp low boost. apexi Power FC engine managment RB25DET gear box and new clutch adjustable suspension all round body kit wheels, lots of them. im not sure on a price but ill start at $10,000 ONO with the open mind to trade for a lower price with less mods. Please dont comment on the price as if you have a look for yourself you can decide for yourself.

this thing is boxed up ready to go as last sale fell through.

Pics can be found at http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=328112 thanks

usual deal unable to upload pics i will send off emails as asap. ONE SET IS ALREADY SOLD and it wasnt the best set either even thoe they were pretty much the same. thanks damo

JUST TO REPEAT THIS FORUM MEMBER NO LONGER HAS THE CAR SO HE WILL NOT BE RESPONDING TO ANY REQUESTS FOR PARTS. SORRY FOR YOUR INCONVINENCE

if you dont like 300 a pair than make an offer.im happy to deal.

Item:R32 GTR N1 headlights Age:18 years + or - Condition: very good one set slightly better than the other, looks cleaner Price: $300 pair To Fit: (What car) any r32 modle Location: tasmania but willing to post at buyers expence. around $20 aus wide Contact: me via PM is the best bet as i forget about posts sometimes. Comments: both sets are in very good condition for their age. one set came off a GTR we are currently working on and we wanted to go back to the normal projector style ones. the N1 headlights feature a screw on metal bracket for the GTR grill. they also look different. much like the base modle lights that come out on the GTS skylines but they also seem to have a dark tint to the lenses which make them look far more agressive. not in a rush to sell these but as there is 2 sets avalible they would be ideal for a circuit racer thats chaseing spares. thanks damo

thanks guys i have chased up most of the leads with no luck. ill chase up take 4x4 now

hmm i reccon could i come and check it out. it would give me some extra wang factor and 2deg more lock if it cam from a gtr. haha thanks for looking GMB

PM sent

hi all. just wondeing if anyone has a spare r33 power steering flutd resivor that they may have lieing around? not looking to fork out huge dollars for one. thanks damien

Ah cool. i just picked up one for a mate but its a fair bit off fitting nicely. i have been tiding up the outside and the inside has been ported but its been ported out a bit to much in some places. we were also concerned about the flow quality of it. at the spec its at not with the cage you could circuit race it propely in the tas super series. its not overly expensive. i would think it would be better than club days?

is that an ebay special?

thanks mate but i got a new one to save me any more hassels. i used the car on the weekend and it was brilliant. it was absolutely magical and proformed well all day. so id have to say i am happy with boosts work. the proof is in the car. but in saying that i havent tried any other people so i wont be jumping over the moon about it just yet.

if you have an r34 dont skimp on decent mods. KKR and hypergear are very lazy turbos and not realy worth it. GCG high flows are a waste of time and only lead to other problems. i know this from personal experience on more than one car a td-06 would be ideal but you would need the full kit. manifold, wastegate, ect. and its out of your current price range. best bet would be either a HKS GT-RS (i think) which will bolt onto your standard manifold and dump pipe and still offer some thing up around 270 at the wheels. or a garret in similar spec to the HKS but id go the HKS myself. for 2k you could probably get a brand new garret or HKS turbo bolt on type and with the little bit of change buy yourself an apexi SAFC so you have a small amount of tuneability. you wont reach its full potential just yet but you will have the heart of the 250 goal in place. you can then add an ecu and injectors and fuel pump later to and keep stepping the power up as you get the mods. if thats all the money you have to spend i wouldnt look at anything other than a bolt on option like the HKS or garret as once you get into after market manifolds and stuf the money soon climbs. and ebay is not your friend for turbos. ok the HKS ones are a bit more but check this link out and talk to slide http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bo...Ap-t202237.html

Update for me is i had my car dynoed at boost last week. ive been to bissy helping my new team mate out to post on here much. specs of the engine are GTR FMIC GTR injectors R34 neo turbo 10psi actuator custom ic piping. split dump pipe into 3" straight through exhaust with no mufflers. GTR power FC all sitting on a rb25DE the car pulled 194rwkw with a slipping clutch and was slightly detuned to prolong the life of the clutch which i ended up changing over the weekend so the car got a big birthday. the car had been tuned before hand by a friend of mine and it felt nice and strong on the 5psi that we were feeding it then. i am yet to drive the car as its a track only car but i will get to this weekend so im pretty keen to se if there is any difference. after having it on the dyno ive got the power bug and i want more. its killing me now that without the slipping clutch it could have cracked the 200 mark with would have made me very happy for a budget biuld.

Well theres only a few choices in tassy realy. and if you read every thing on the net they all have strong positives and negatives. i recently took my car to boost MODS: FMIC, gtr injectors, r34 turbo, good dump pipe and 3" straight through exhaust. runing on and rb25de power: 194rwkw on 10psi but detuned for a slipping clutch Price: $420 including iridiums ECU: power FC Service: i was happy with the service but and there is always a but it cost nearly doubble what i was advised (not quoted) would have been close bar the iridums i was very happy with the feed back about my motor and alike. ive been told this isnt a strong point with boost but i was happy. i am unsure if i will try some where elce next time.

just a stocko rear bar or are you after rear pods as well?

i dont know couldnt hear it inside. haha. can i borrow that clutch tool tomorrow. ill send steve around to pic it up.

no we watched how it was done then went and did a bit in the rain. blew a cooler pipe off (thanks pete) had to get the girls to bring out the commo full of tools, did a bit more then went home. clutch feels good car feels strong and it hardly reads on the knock o meter.

the problem with it was it had been light weightened and machined in the past and it looked way to thin to be re machined especially after seeing the heat marks through it. thanks gesty but we picked up an rb30 one today. its done the job nicely in and running.

oh and i just remembered that our wreck has a sunroof so i can probably help you out with the rubbers? send me a pic of the bits you want.