DJRIFT

can anyone realy answer if this mod is clean cut a good idea, good power with minamal efort or is ait a good mod good power with a fair bit of stuffing around.

im pleased the info helped. as far as the oil part goes i would try to do all the things listed as RB engines are known of having poor oil control. and oil realy is the life blood of an engine of any specs. im not totaly sure if GTR cams are an upgrade either. if you have some info on them id be keen to see. also the standard plenum is so big because it has long runners. long runners are good for low down torque and shorter ones are better for high end power.

sounds interesting the biuld up you have in progress. this link here should solve all your oil control problems. well worth the read as everything sydney kid writes is valuble. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=110680 i hadent heard about using a rb25 crank and rods. ive only ever heard about using rb26 items. plenty of people say that aftermarket inlet manifolds are not worth the while. they do look better and can be a bit more practical with intercooler piping but from what i read they give a loss to an already poor low down torque figure. just get it portmatched. as for exhaust manifold you may need one depending on what turbo you use and a "tuned length" manifold will give better response with the turbo.. rb20 heads are suposed to flow pretty poorly so a good porting and maybe some tomei cams may be the way to go if you are chaseing that sort of power. hope some of that helps.

yes you would think that the cfm would increase at higher rpms but i think a some point it would then become ineficent to the design of the fan blades and alike. also high rpms usualy mean high speeds where the radiator should see sufcent air flow with out the need of a fan at all. but in some things like drifting and short corce racing than grater airflow is needed. so still no answer to how much cfm just more questions.

im not sure what other info people have but i can tell you a few things. the RB26 will not bolt strait up to the rb20/25 head but trust make an adapter plate to make it. if you got one with the 6 throttle bodys than i think you would find grater responce and alround proformance benifits from it but a GTR plenum with the throttles atached is usualy worth a lot. probably not worth it. thats when you go for the greddy forward facing plenums. they sell for around $1000 with a big single throttle. plus they will bolt straight up to an rb20/25. hope that helps.

thanks mate i think ill leave it alone for now then.

hi all. i have just recived a set of arospeed cam gears off the group buy. i am planing on putting them on soonish and my question is? if i put these on can i give them just a slight tweek. a few degres here and there without a dyno tune. from my understanding enough people already have rough guides as to how many degres they should be put. the results i have seen are all within 1 or 2 deg of each other so if i put (not sure which way it goes but) 2 deg on the inlet and 3 on the exhaust should i notice a difference and will it be ok? any help would be grate. thanks damo

its a must for any fans realy. helps them cover more area.

exactly

thanks salad i thought you would answer my question. i thought that they were suposed to but i didnt get them so im now a bit sad but ill just have to go and buy some new ones. thanks mate

i understand what you are trying to say but if you had read my post propperly you would have found that i am changing because of where i am running my cooler pipeing. i am running it on more of a diagonal between the radiator and the engine so i need the room and even if you run an off the shelf kit you have to trim the standard fan blades which i think is dodgy. also the wiring side of things will not be a dodgy back yard job either. i have gone to grate lengths to make sure this wont fail unlike setups ive seen in the past. all i realy want to know is the flow rate of these standard fans. and the drain on the alternator would hardly be as much as some tossars subwoofers in the boot so i cant see it being a big deal. also where i live i dont get stuck in trafic for hours on end and the daily temp rairly reaches 40deg so its realy not that bad. please someone tell me the flow rate not how to mod my car!

hi all. i picked up a whiteline rear sway bar off a r32 GTR to put in my GTS-t yesterday and when i went to fit it i found thet the end flanges where they bolt onto the lowercontrol arms is in an oposite direction to the standard one. basicly the standard one runs parrel to the bottom of the lower control arm and the whiteline one runs at 90degres to the lower control arm. does any one know if i can buy the right link to go from the lower control arm to the whiteline bar as i didnt get one. thanks for any info

i was pretty sure the 2 12" fans flowed slightly less but it was a while ago now. i got 1 16" fan so it could sit in the standard spot. this will still force air through the radiator evenly. ive gone for a thermo because a you get slightly more power as the engine isnt driving a dead weight. and b for my custom cooler piping as i dont want to cut down the standard fan blades to suit. it will also be switched off a propper weld in theermatic switch whitch turns on at 84 degs. but id still like to know the flow rate if anyone has it handy.

hi all i am just wondering if anyone knows what sort of CFM the standard mechanical fan flows on an R32gtst? i am about to fit a thermo fan and id like to know that its going to flow enough. i have got a 16" fan which i know flows 1100CFM but is it enough? thanks damo

pm sent

surly some one wants some cheap pods?

well i was talking to my mate about this problem. he said it was only once installing a dump pipe that he had the same problem. he had a cat back with no cat then as soon as he put the dump pipe on it had boost creep. he said its fairly common on rb25s as the turbo waste gate cant handle the extra flow avalable. this isnt a problem when you put one on a rb20 as they flow less. he was left with the option of a high flow or a new bigger turbo. he went for a bigger ball bearing turbo. i know you already know this wogsrus but i thought id shed some light on the story for every one.

uh hu that all makes sence then. so does the gizzmo one operate off injector duty cycle or just off vacume? all thoe i am no expert this all seems rater strange as ive never heard of any other EBCs on RB25s causing a problem like this with similar mods to yours. i have also seen the gizzmo one on RB20s and seen no problems at all. was you looking at getting one of the jaycar boost controlers? if so why didnt you get one? just curious. sounds like you should get some expert advice first before you do any damage.

hmm there seems to be a few things wrong there. one. dont r33s have an electronic controled actuator so the wastegate actuator cant just be plumbed back to the intercooler pipeing? two. if it isnt makeing boost then all of a sudden makeing some then it sounds more like the wastegate is open causing exhaust to bypass the compressor wheel and not make boost. then once shut not opening again causing excesive boost. three. i realy cant see why taking a car out will cause this problem. it may make it worse as the exhaust would be more free floing causing it to generate more excessive boost but it wouldnt cause this problem. four. id put the boost side of things right back to stock and see what happens then. i may be wrong but thats how i look at it.

well i was going to say about the drift filter as it got the hightest peak power out put over all other top brands K&N hks ect. this was done in zoom magazine. but in that zoom magazine they actualy didnt test for filtration, just power out put. i was then told about a a test done on a website where dyno runs and so on were proformed as well as a filtration test. apexi was the best on that one in both peak power and filtration. some bad news fo HKS thoe as there filters dont stop much at all, maybe a small child.

oh im also sad that i couldnt come as i didnt realise it was a bit of an SAU cruse. i would have loved to come and mingle with some of the skyline boys and girls. ill try to be at the next one thoe.

stuart has a burgandy GTR while jason has the purple one.

well id like to enter into this toppic as i would like 200+ but am not sure on the best setup. i have been writing up my own spread sheet on everyones dyno posts in the RB20 dyno section so that i can see what i need to achive 200+. i have only managed to get throught about the first 2 pages but i am seeing a very good consistancy in power V mods. RB25 turbo: there isnt a huge amount that ive sampled in my spread sheets yet but non of them have managed 200rwkw. i am not saying that they cant but even with all the extra bits 200 is a bit of a limit. you could then go on to hiflow the 25 turbo later down the track when you need/want more power but i have been hearing average reviews of high flows. plus i think a high flow 25 turbo on a 20 equals a bit more lag but that could be fixed with cam gears (proven fact). HKS or alike: a lot of the cars first sampled are running HKS 2530s or td06 turbos or alike which manage to crack the 200 mark easily enough with low boost but id like to know what lag is like. ( i should start to understand how to read dyno sheets for that info). they have more than likely come from japan like they are so the owneres havent listed all mods like injectors which makes it hard to have perfect data. id also like to add that these kits (HKS) are worth big $$$ so would it be worth it just to crack the 200 mark? engine management: one third of these cars sampled are running power FCs which more than likely come from japan in that way. one third run a tuned rom or after market ecu and the remaning third run standard comp. in my setup i was going straight for a power FC but now im probably going to go for a haltech as i can buy one cheaper than a power FC and i can install it myself cheaper than buying a power FC. i know PFCs can be had for as little as $1000 now but im pretty sure that it needs to be modded to suit an rb20 so i think that bumps them upo to $1500. also with an aftermarket setup there is no need for an air flow meter so the added cost of a Z32 meter can be put towards the ECU cost. diferent injectors and coil setups can also be run easier from this setup. i may be wrong about that because i have limmeted knolage about PFCs so thats why a haltech would be better for me. cheaper and i know it. injectors: about a third of people run GTR injectors. great value for money at around $300 plus cleaning and flow testing and im pretty sure they will flow up to 300rwkw so they should have plenty of flow. around a quarter run other aftermarket injectors with the remainders running no upgrade wich is where you always get stuch on a tune. run out off fuel at the top end. exhaust pod and intercooler: pretty much no one is without these. exhaust should be around 3"+ for good flow. a good pod or pannel filter and if you have a pod put it in a sealed up air box as it will make a diference. i am about to go for the apexi power intake for around the $100 new as they have been proven to provide smooth airflow with great filtration and the biggest improvement in kw rating over all others. i think the better the intercooler the better improvement you will get at the end of the day. i am on a buget so i have gone for the GTR factory cooler with custom pipe work done by me to come up to a ruff total of $400 instaled and a great bang for buck option. ignition: i was suprised to see that only a few people are running spitfire coil packs wit the rest just standard. spitfire ones are ment to make a few kilowat increase but for the $600 for a set its a fir price to pay. well that as much as i think i can add for now and if you have taken the time to read this post than i hope you have learnt somthing usefull from it. also if there is somthing that i am totaly rong about just tell me and i will change it. i may also be a good option to read throught the dyno results for your self if you are undecided on what to do. but after all of this i myself an still on the fence on weather or not just to chuck a RB25 in or mod up the 20. either way i wont see much change out of $5000 and will probably end up with the same result. any coments on RB20 Vs 25 would be good. damo sorry i dugg up an old thread but i felt it was very relivent and saved me starting another one.

no no youve missed the point. they are not called rocket covers at all it is either rocker or cam covers. SR20s have rocker covers and rb motors have cam covers. theres realy nothing to it any one can do it.

lots more sold now ive still got the cheapest pods in the world. ok maybe not but they are still here.