DJRIFT

i am currently deciding weather it is worth buying a nismo strut brace with one of these on it. i seen one on a 32 a few weeks back and thought that it was a grate idea. ever since then ive seen them everywhere. well worth it i think. i cant realy remember the price on the lines i just threw that price up there as a guide. damo

hey todd. ill answer your questions from the info i have and have been advised about doing. the biggest rotors that come in standard form from RDA (rotors and drumbs australia) seem to be the V-spec ones. they are 324mm. they retail at $490 a pair, they are also slotted. slotted and dimpled are about doubble the price. these could also be had for around 2/3 the price in the SAU group buy once freight is added. from what i found the GTR and GTS-t calipers are exactly the same bar the GTR ones are 2mm wider. also the GTR ones are forged so they heavier than the GTS ones. (not 100% on that either but one of my mates just did a conversion to skyline brakes on his 180 and he said GTS ones were better for the job) GTS ones should still clear a GTR rotor but i cant be 100%. the pad size is also exactly the same between the too. so basicly you can use the standard caliper on a much bigger rotor. all that is needed is a plate made to move the caliper outwards also makeing it sit either lower or higher on the rotor because of spacing. we had a look at doing this and it would realy be a pice of pie but getting it engineered may not be (if you care about that) as tim also said there is people making these spacers that are ADR aproved for $300 then you need pads. EBC greens seem to be the best option for the road. they are better than bendix ones as the bendix ones chew through rotors because of their compound as the EBC ones have a much nicer to rotor compound. EBC greens go for the $200 mark where as the bendix ones were around the $100 (thats why i got them) Get a different set for the track. EBC reds are about $220 but they arent any good for the street as they need to be up to temp to work. braided lines are good and shoud be done as well. they are done to achieve a better fealing peddal. My friend with the 180 got his lines from USA heaps cheaper than he could get them hear but they arent ADR approved. i think i was quoted aroud $80 to $150 for a pair through a local brake shop so you could find better. so for the fronts you have rotors $490 spacers $300 pads $200 Braided lines $100 total $1090 + some new fluid and other crap for the rears some braided lines and new pads shoud be enough unless you want to go hard core. pads $200 lines $100 total $300 if you want any thing better than this set up expect to spend a lot more. but a full brembo front set up sold for $1500 a week or so back so there is another option. my setup cost me so far $270 but im yet to get braided lines. it will be on and running buy the end of the week and once they have bedded in ill let you know how good they are. there is also more options for pads and rotors like DBA and ferodo but this is what i looked into.

thanks for everyones replys. maybe i should have mentioned it but i do plan on circuit and drift racing and what ever elce i feel like doing. i have already got all the stuff for the upgrade now anyway and shoud be fitted by the end of this coming week. i origanly decided to do this only because the pads were worn and the rotors were getting pretty worn. i was also able to get the rotors cheap as. ive chosen a good set of pads for road use and once i head for the track ill get somthing better for race conditions (high heat) ive also gotten my advice so far off the people that maintain targar and track cars and what they feel to be the best. they see it that there realy isnt a good road/track pad so i should just get somthing good for the road and somthing for race later. i also didnt want to take this mod to far thats why i didnt get spacers and run bigger rotors. i have just siply got better rotors and new pads

im not totaly sure but if your timing is to far advanced than that may be causing your problem. you should set it to how the book says. if it says 15 degrees with the TPS off than set it to that. then when the TPS goes back on it should drop back to 10 wich is what i think manual skylines are ment to have. plus as the engine revs than the timing will advance/ retard (cant remember) and it may be to advanced/ retarded at the top end.

im interested in the rear but are you willing to negotiate on price?

hey im realy keen. could you get a price on freight for it to tas? sent pm.

im keen but a few good bics would be good.

i was told that ultimates will chew the crap out of rotors. lucky we got them cheap as im going to be running ultimates.

i have a decent driver side front gard. but its still on my car . but if you tell me where i can get some new guards from then ill sell you mine or you could buy some new guards and ill buy your good passanger side one? just an idea let me know.

dam it why didnt i wait. na i dont mind. i looked at making some spacers to run V spec rotors 324mm but the cost isnt worth it for me at the moment. i grabbed a set of just slotted rotors off the group buy for around $150 and a set of bendix ultimate pads for $115. cheap up grade and im sure ill notice it. ill also look at replacing the lines with braided items after the new pads have beded in as i may never push the car enough to justify them.

i like that setup. i am just in the prosess of doing a similar setup. it makes more sence to run the pipeing this way as it means there is less of the pipe in the engine bay after cooling. 1m compared to 2m the normal way. hopefully my setup wont cost that much thoe. ill be running a GTR cooler core with custom pipes. probably only aluminimum thoe. i chose a GTR core because they will flow 300rwkw and are good for what they are and cheap. compared to buying a hybrid or just jap system. sorry to hijack.

i just got a set of bendix ultimate pads for my rotors when they come. id like to get a set of EBC reds for the track thoe. ive been quoted arounf the $180 for them any idea on a price?

hi N1 GTR you have said that the kit comes with everything needed but how much length do you get with the hose? do you get a box of pre-made pipes of varying lengths? or does it come with one role of hose and fittings to be put on to your descression? i ask because id like the whole kit but i think ill only be getting the relocation kit due to funds and would like to know how much length i would get. id like to be able to mount the filter flat near the battery in a r32 so it needs a fair bit of length in the pipes as other kits i have seen only come with about 30cm of pipes. id then like to mount the oil cooler and thermostat (purchased later) in front of the right hand wheel, basicly short lines from where the filter is to the cooler. thanks for any help damien

ive sent PM. i take it its a crossover system?

i thought that the inlet cam was variable anyway thats why they are designed like they are. i havent ever heard of anyone takeing that off and i doubt that the cam gears offered would bolt up. but i could be wrong.

check in the last group buy on the discusion but im pretty sure you only need the exhaust wheel on the RB25 depending on if its a series 1 or 2. we now have 17 pairs so thats down to $150 EACH

ive paid and have sent PM with details let me know what batch im in thanks.

hi all i have just go an omoni exhaust temp gauge off a mate but it needs a temp sender for the exhaust. it would also be handy if i could get a wiring diagram for it. it has 5 wires and my gess is black= earth red= +12v white= illumination yellow and orange= seder unit. i was wondering if anyone has any idea where i could buy a new sender for it from. i could possibly get one through work but if someone knew where i could get one from it would be grate. thanks damo

i agree with SK and as an auto elec i replace heaps of failed AU coil packs. everything he has said is right. if you look ate everything on a nissan it has been designed very well. take an R32 GTS-t the brakes on these things are grate for there age but every one wants to upgrade them. like everything people decide to upgrade. they upgrade it because it is worn out and they say they were no good anyway but if they restored them to like new they would find they are actualy good. plus leads every where looks shite

the inlet cam gets adjusted buy the motor from standard. haveing fleability in the exhaust can gear will give you more power, quicker spool and better midrange.

it is better to suck than blow the air through IMOP. if it is a case of not having enough room than you will need a different thermo and most themos are the same thickness as they need a big motor to dive them. you should be able to chose from heaps of fans. your best bet would be to run 2 smaller ones as they will be thiner in the motor part. try that

well im not sure. i plan on getting a tune after everything is fitted. most cam gears are set up on the dyno so i gess a quick tune is done as well. they are ment to improve lag and help the torque curve through the mid range. from what i have read they do make a good difference. they are in the group buy for around the $160 a pair which is realy good compared to the jap brand ones. these ones are made in the USA. im also getting my new rotors out of the groub buy as they are half the price i can get them through my suplyer for.

im pretty sure you gain the most from having both on an RB20. its the RB25 that you only need the exhaust wheel on as they have VIT or something on them. Check the posts in the last GB its all answered in there. from what i see we are up to 26 gears. keep going and we will see the discount.

thanks for all the input im going to get a genuine on. then i cna rest easy at night. i wont be doing the timing belt yet as i have just orded some adjustable cam gears from the group buy. mmmmm my rb will have some mid range. so ill do all the bearings and pullys when i fit them.

sorry i dont want to break the rules.