series2r33

The one on my car is the real thing. I've seen the fake ones both in the day and at night. U can see the difference even in the day.

Bezerkly made mine and it retains the stock bottom runners. I sure they're not making them anymore though due to demand.

Definatly agree with changing it to make it more solid. One of the guys at my work had it happening to his 180sx. He said he just fed in a steel coil spring like thing. No problems after that. But personally id go the alloy way. If your gonna go through the hassle of playing around with it u may aswell change it all together, not to mention tidy it up a bit. In my opinion the stock rubber pipe is an ugly piece of sh*t that lets that side of the engine bay down and makes it look cheap and nasty haha. Metal will make a world of differance

Dyno times expensive, expecially when at a well recognised tuner. My next tune is gonna cost bout $600 as apose to my first that was $300. Pay for what you get i guess, i wasn't happy at all with the first tune but it was cheap and done the job on the mods i had and i didnt wanna leave it that way for long so i wasnt all that bothered. Just remember that a good tune is probably the most important part of doing your car up to be quick and reliable. The 8 hours was probably due to them waiting so they could play around with your cold start. As for the bodykit... make em pay for it regardless if your gonna go back or not!

The GTRS is a fair bit more powerful than the GT2535 hey. Do they both spool up in roughly the same time? Also can u get the GTRS externally gated as apose to internally? http://www.slidingperformance.com/catalog/...products_id=312 Pro's and con's?..........

Nahh i got around 200rwkw now but i ment when i get the mods will i have around 250 like fEkuaR said. Al "In fact i have just purchased the GT3076 to replace my GTRS, as i am doing an RB30 coversion and the GTRS would have been too small and would have resticted the engine." So what are u doing with your GTRS? selling

Thanks mate i'll definatly look into it, I seen this from horsepoweinabox and it directly refered to the rb25det's. I've posted it just recently but i chuck it in here just for the hell of it since im replying anyway The GT3037/3076 is an exceptional turbo for its HP range. It features a .6 surge slotted comp cover and a complimenting turbine/comp wheel ratio, making it a great bolt on upgrade for the 2-3 litre range engine. This unit has a lot of flexibility in offered houisings. It can be supplied with a T25 .86 internal housing, a T3 .63 or .82 external gate housing and a recent edition is the option of internal gate T3 in .63 or .82 (these units are more expensive and subject to availability at the time). Usual ultra reliability and superb response from the Garrett ball bearing design. Great upgrade for RB20/25s and other 2.5-3 litre's looking for some serious power.

Thanks mate much appreciated. Slowly getting there. Does the GTRS have a T3 flange? I was doing some searching on horsepowerinabox and from what i can figure they reckon the GTRS is for the sr20det's and the GT3076 would be better for the rb25det's? The GT3037/3076 is an exceptional turbo for its HP range. It features a .6 surge slotted comp cover and a complimenting turbine/comp wheel ratio, making it a great bolt on upgrade for the 2-3 litre range engine. This unit has a lot of flexibility in offered houisings. It can be supplied with a T25 .86 internal housing, a T3 .63 or .82 external gate housing and a recent edition is the option of internal gate T3 in .63 or .82 (these units are more expensive and subject to availability at the time). Usual ultra reliability and superb response from the Garrett ball bearing design. Great upgrade for RB20/25s and other 2.5-3 litre's looking for some serious power.

So the GTRS is the GT2535?... Is this the most popular street turbo for the rb25det, How much is it? I have a: Apexi power FC E-boost Apexi turbo timer 3" exhaust from turbo back Front mount intercooler with custom piping Custom cold air intake Custom intake plenum 80mm throttle body Im getting injectors the same time as the turbo as they are maxed out now. Will i need the Z32 afm or will it be ok? Would it be wise to get an aftermarket exhaust manifold? if so top mount or low mount? Will the set up i have reach around the 250kw atw.

What turbo is this and how much is it?? I've been tossing up between a GT3040, or GT3076 with the .63 exhaust housing. What horsepower rating is this turbo and is it ball bearing?? I am between those 2 because i was told i can achieve the same power with less boost and the same lag with the GT3040 as apose to the GT3076. Just interested about this one now? Pros and cons between the 3?

Why wouldnt he just but a GT3540 with the .63 exhaust housing from the start?! And then sell the one he already has if he would like to reduce the lag a bit and get out of it way cheaper. This link shows that u can get the GT3540's with the 0.63, 0.82, 1.06 rear housings. http://www.slidingperformance.com/catalog/...products_id=311

What turbo do u have now?

Dead set, cause i've been told that i still have a ceramic wheel and therefore shouldnt run more than say 13-14psi

No. Not really as it only the top half that has been change. Simply the volume. The runners are exactly the same, only this is better as it can now get more flow due to the pure size and 80mm throttle body. And this was built by someone who knows the ins and outs.

I'll quote from a mag Its all too easy to look at an inlet manifold and figure that its primary function is one of flow. Getting air into an engine is part of it, but to simplify the operation of an inlet manifold in such a crude way is to understand only a fraction of what it is designed to achieve. Rather, the inlet manifold on any late-model fuel injected engine is actually a tuned chamber designed to take advantage of a phenomenon known as the Hermoltz frequency. If u could actually see inside the inlet manifold, you'd be able to note that the air doesn't simply rush into the cylinder head, it instead pulses back and forth in unison with the opening and closing of the valves, forming a big column of vibrating air. Optimising the vibration of the air to get the very best cylinder fill possible is one thing engineers chase more than any other. This is what makes power, gives excellent economy and the sharp throttle response expected of a modern car. Its also something undone by those oblivious to the hours of manifold testing performed at the factory. So what i reckon that means is spend money on something that is designed and tested.... Not something that looks the goods from the outside.. and a rough job at that.

Why would i be doin that in a built up area?... yeah fair enough street car but i'd boot it somewhere sensible from most likely 50km onwards, like an open road, and i reckon boost should be on tap from there anyway. I dont wanna race from traffic light to traffic light like a new kid with his P plates or circuit race the thing. For street use i mean i dont want a massive turbo that kicks me sideways the whole way up the street on boost, but one that can take off from normal driving and have heaps off balls and a possiblity to go quicker if i intend to in the future. If u have an aftermarket turbo you can comment on it. (like bigcarl, sinistagtst etc) And more often than not u'll be bias towards it. But i reckon half the comments on here are from guys with stock turbos running their mouth, am i right. The only real way to know whats better is to have driven both and thats what i was really after, not someone guessing what would be best, i can do that! I also wanna run my car down the quater and see what time i'll get, and from what sinistagtst and the turbo shops tell me this is the turbo best suited and what im lookin for ECR033 - Boost doesn't kill (punish) an engine - poor tuning will kill an engine before boost does... Yeah im sure poor tuning kills engines... find me someone who doesnt know that. I never said i was gonna get it tuned badly just for the hell of it did i. But u agree excess boost will damage engines... thats what i said!? And thats why if i can get to a certian power figure with the same spool up time and less boost i'll be doing it.

I was almost goin to buy one of these and then i heard the bad rap. I got a custom made one for a price i couldnt say no to and told if anything goes wrong (like the weld cracking etc) to take it back and they'll fix it up for me. It also has velocity stacks inside. Do the greddy and copy greddy ones have the velocity stacks?

Thats fairly high boost there, i really only wanna be running like 14-15, so im not punishing my engine. Thats why i was told to go with the GT3040 because its got the .63 so it should still spool up fast. And also make the same power as the GT3076 but on lower boost.

Dan is the man! Thats about the power im lookin for 240kw - 250kw Good spool up time thanks to the .63 rear end, 3200rpm to full boost at 3800rpm And the best thing is the low boost, Less stress on the turbo and the engine. The GT3040 and GT3076 are the same price at this place i looked, and even on the garret website, so they aint trying to push me for more money on this one. If anything they'd tell me to get the less powered one and wait for me to come back lookin for more power if they wanted me to spend more.

I was just talkin to a turbo shop this arvo and they reckon go with the GT3040 or GT3076 because they actually have the T3 flanges unlike the 28's u been saying to get. They said the only difference is the compressor size which means u can get more power out if it, or the same at lower boost, therefore less stress on everything. Spool up will be the same on the 3040 as to the 3076 as the exhaust side is virtually the same size. They said a 600hp turbo (GT3040) is good for about 600hp at the flywheel which drops when converted to the wheels. So if im looking 400hp at the wheels this is the one for me they reckon, with room for more power if i wanna push it. So from what i've been told from professionals who do this for a living, is to go with the GT3040 as apose to the GT3076 because they will both spool up equally as fast, and to achieve the same power on a GT3076 i will have to run more boost which will only limit the life of the turbo and engine.

I have a series 2 r33 and im replacing my turbo, but i was told its still a ceramic wheel so im runnin only 10psi. Get a hi-flo turbo, they just deck out a stock one with a steel wheel and u can run higher boost, about $1200-$1300

Look mate i know that engine would just maybe be stronger than a stock one and therefore be able to withstand more punishment, but being a 21yr old whos just bought a house and who is just lookin for a turbo to finish of his car, i really dont wanna be spending all that money on a car that is my daily driver. The turbo the last thing, thats all i wanna do.

I really cant remember sayin i was gonna run a 700hp figure! or 600 or 500. Im talkin bout the turbo capabilities! thats what their rated at. I never said i wanted lag but i know that all turbos have lag to a certian degree. So thats why im not trying to get a 1200hp turbo. I've been told that the GT30 isnt bad with lag and thats been confirmed but other posts on here from people who have one installed. Some of the people postin comments have their mods noted on the bottom of their posts and say they still got a stock turbo?! Yet they swear the GT30 is sooooo laggy?! So the GT30 is a 500hp (rated fEkuar) turbo, whats the one under that? Is this the GTRS u have been talkin about?

Wheres the contradiction? Maybe you're just talkin about the turbo i need? Virtually no lag and good power... what was it again and how much will it cost?

The biggest change i seen with my r33 was when i had the Apexi power fc put in. id recomend that being the first way to go for u and the rest of the exhaust, i got my power fc direct from japan for $800 but its like $1500 for a r33 one, not sure bout r32