series2r33

This is how i made my CAI As for improvement one can only imagine that its getting alot more cold air directed right at it so its gotta be better

All in all i want to find a turbo that has the most power possible with minimal acceptable lag. There should be a line where both cross and that turbo is the one i want, thanks for your comments

I just dont wanna breath on the turbo and have boost coming on. Just want it to go when its flat

I've seen one with a GT3540 and hes been running stock internals on that 700hp turbo for over a year and not a hint of a problem! The rb series have strong internals, they can take a bit. i dont know why u think they'll blow up. With the GT30 or the turbos you've suggested im not really gonna max out the turbos i dont imagine, but i dont wanna be driving around on boost when im not giving it any, street use is exactly that. its not toyko drift i want a sain car that aint on boost its whole life but that can go when i want it to

Since when is the internal gate not in the turbo? Yeah GT30 sounds like the best bet to me, drive around sainly and not be spooling up like a wank when your not even giving it any, but yet have the power there when u wanna give it some and have bugger all lag according to "pixal8tr" who says its only a touch laggy and thats in a heavier car

Also i dont feel like driving down the street with the turbo screaming its head of when im just going to get some milk cause the small turbos well into its power band at 2500rpm

A good EBC may improve spool-up times as well. I have an E-Boost so maybe that will help? Yeah im thinking the GT30 that way u still have the high mid and top end power because i dont really feel like straping a hair dryer onto the side of my car so i can jump 10 metres in front from the get go and then get smashed because the turbos maxed out Im not worried about "minimal" lag as it is to be expected with any turbo car making decent power

Maybe u should read what i wrote paulr33! When did i say i wanted an internally gated turbo?! And replacing diff cradle, pineapples on a car predominatly used for street is just stupid, maybe if i was using it for track use! If the 2530 is such i good idea then how come every turbo shop u talk to tells u to get either of the 3 i mentioned? Anyway how much is a rb25 GTRS and how many kw whould i be expecting to get

GTRS? how many hp is that turbo?... isnt that the one thay use to get snappy response on the sr20's. Thats a 2ltr 4cyl engine, thats why i was thinkin GT3040 or GT30 not so much the 3540, simply because of the extra 2 cylinders and half a litre. The GT3040 is what they have on the XR6 turbos from factory so i know its a good turbo and i have 9.5" tyres on the back so that orta help with traction

Dynos can be calibrated differently therefore showing that some cars have less powerful then they do on a different dyno. The stainless steel intake pipe shouldn't have made any difference as the only problem i've heard of is with the stock plastic one contracting under suction and limiting air flow so if anything the s/s one should be better. my suggestion would be to go back to dyno A and get a re-run on that

I know i wont have 700hp! i never said i would, but that turbo would give me more power than say the GT30 or GT3540. And what would the differences be in spool up time? thats why i threw in the GT3040... half way... maybe best of both worlds? Will the aftermarket exhaust manifold will effect spool up time more so than KW? is that what your saying? for an extra grand for a decent exhaust manifold and an added 3 kw, i just cant see how its worth it... unless as u say there is a "massive" improvement in spool up time

Im at the stage now where im lookin to upgrade my turbo, I've got: Front mount intercooler Custom intake plenum with custom piping 80mm throttle body Walbro 500hp fuel pump Apexi power FC and hand controller Custom cold air intake E-Boost 3" exhaust with high flo cat from turbo back ...and nismo 555cc injectors to be put in when tuning with the turbo I cant decide between the GT3540 (700hp), GT3040 (600hp), or even maybe a GT30 (500hp). I'll be leaving the stock exhaust manifold as i've heard changing it will really only give me maybe a 3kw gain, not worth it for the money spend to fit it, and to change the exhaust to fit top mount. I want the best outta my car but i dont wanna be waiting all day for boost to kick in. I also know that the bigger the turbo, the bigger the number you'll put out on a dyno, but on the street a snappier car will be quicker despite a lower power, and thats what im after. Im askin which turbo will give me the best power and spool up in a reasonable time, ie best turbo for my car???

Why not just use rubber hoses? I didnt think its was that much of a high pressure to require braided lines, or am i wrong

I was think bout getting a vented bonnet but i was wondering about driving it in the rain, say if u stop at the traffic lights or something where the engine is gonna be hot does the rain running down through the vents directly onto the engine cause steam or anything? I also know your no ment to directly cool a hot engine incase some cracks goin from hot to cold that quickly

Mate no one cares what u say anymore, your a drop kick that thinks he know everything... If you did why are u posting on here asking questions insted of answering em?

Thats with no injectors or fuel pump hey, how are they with fitting? Theres a turbo place in port kembla that just gives u a turbo they've high flowed and u give them your old one and they get it ready for the next bloke who wants one... The GCG hi flo.. its just a high flowed stock turbo isnt it?

Thanks for helpin me out Nismoid, top bloke I've also heard that everything is fine as i've got but if the boost goes up the turbo changes along with fuel pump and injectors. Last thing how much roughly is it all gonna cost, cause i'll just save up the bulk and get it all done. How hard is it to do. ie easily to reach or fiddlely. I should be right to do it myself or would u advise against it?

What boost would that be running to get 250rwkw? Cause i heard if i go above 14 i should really look at changing the intake manifold and in turn shortening and enlarging the intercooler piping say to 3" The intercooler piping even heats up now so im thinkin that with more boost cooler air will help heaps? Or should i keep it all the same and get the stock intake manifold polished to suit the rest

Alright.. Thanks heaps guys One more thing is the GCG hi-flo a top or bottom mount turbo, and where do i get one, their bout $1750 hey? I got told to look at a GT30 or GT35? Are u sayin keep the intake or exhaust manifold stock? And what about the longer intercooler pipes "as attached" with that kind of power "hence i was thinkin intake manifold" ?

I spent so far: series 2 r33 GTST: $580 = $980 installed - KGCM intercooler $70 - Turbosmart vee port bov, 2nd hand off my mate $550 = $620 installed - Eboost 1 $550 - 3" Dump pipe and high flow cat (already had cat back) $980 - Apexi power FC with hand controller (from japan... cheaper, just that instruction manual is in japanese) $125 - Custom cold in intake and Simoto pod filter and heat shield. = $3325 As for the quote, R31Nismoid, u sure know what your talkin about so i'll listen. U reckon a 250rwkw car would be faster on the street than a 300rwkw one? i got 18 x 9.5 tyres on the rear now and with roughly 200rwkw "differance in dynos" its ok with traction compared to the stock 16 x 6.5. What do u reckon the next step is, im thinking definatly fuel pump, injectors since mine are maxed out now top mount exhaust manifold and a bigger turbo, but im not sure what size... sorta depends what u say bout "250rwkw vs 300rwkw"

Doesn't the power FC have its own ebc therefore eliminating the need for the manual one? I got my car tuned to 13 psi and i had the power fc and eboost hooked up. The eboost was controlling the boost levels but when i went to pick the car up the engine light was on. The mechanic said "oh that just happens to skylines with the power fc" which i didnt take kindly since i entrusted my car to him. I came on here "SAU" and found out that the power fc has a boost controller that u can turn off with the hand controller. I did that and BAM! engine light gone... In all maybe the power fc boost controller and manual boost controller are crossing paths and playing with your boost level? Perhaps disconnect one and see if theres any difference. Matt

Shoot flames u say!!?

Another vote for the clutch! May aswell change it, with the mods u got a better clutch should have been next on the list anyway. May be a blessing in disguise.

Posts to: Australia Item location: HongKong,ShangHai, China Bank: Bank of Melbourne BSB: 733-178 A/c NO.: 588-444 A/C Name: Ying Wei Sounds way to suss for me, i've heard of hepas of scams like that. I've also heard that the intake manifolds u get of ebay liek the greedy style copies "which this one appears to be" are of poor quality and the wall thickness is minimal which can result in cracks! Exhausts manifolds on the other hand from ebey are ok i've heard.

Im not sure but on my old FTO "tiptronic" the gear stick was a bitch to get off and no one knew how to do it. In the end i learned the button could be popped out and revealed screws or socket head cap screws i cant remember but the button had to be prised out like u do when removing the dash... clip like thingies. Once it was out it was simple step by step. Im thinkin that since its a button like set up it might be the same, just an idea? Matt.