exv8driver

I recall reading something somehere (either SDU or one of the UK forums) about a similar topic.. there's a nissan made part specifically for jack stands and skylines. I did add the item to my post skyline purchase shopping list (nissan part# LM450-60000), but don't know how much, or if they're available here.

Sounds like the floats fallen off.. but I'd check the wiring first (easiest option).

Depends on the car... my current pride and joy (v8 commodore - until I get enuf ca$h together for the R33) gets started, left until the revs settle in (usually about as long as it takes to kick on the CD, get my sunnies, light a smoke and roll down the window). Then gets taken easy until the needle moves towards the H and settles between 1/4 and 1/2. I don't see the point in idling for a long while - seen what it does to diesel generators (glazed bores = bad ), imagine it wouldn't be any better for a petrol one. The beater (read for the train station) gets kicked over, dropped into gear and gone str8 away - but for $300... who cares anyway , come to think of it.. not even sure if the engine in that even needs oil

ducki => have you checked the charging circuit from the alternator? See my earlier post in this thread for a quick guide.

Give this guy a call.. he often does repair work and has a good rep around the place. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=159539

GhostRider - can you PM me the details of the bloke in dapto - wouldn't mind one of those.

Remember not to touch the bulb part of the globes - this will shorten their lifespan dramatically.

I usually get the biggest CCA battery I can - 600 + is always a benefit. From experience the NRMA batteries are quite good, and the bonus is they come to you.. so getting it done at an inconvienient time (in my case @ 3am on a Sunday morning) is handy In previous days (when I had the big systems in my cars) i've used odyssey batteries (the same one lasted close to 9 years - the commodore killed it when the alternator wiring harness burnt out - although took close to 500kms of daily driving to do it - didn't notice the little light on the dashboard ). Try batteryworld (http://www.batteryworld.com.au/v1/ProductEnquiry/car.htm) or aero parts (http://www.aeroparts.com.au/odyssey.htm) as a place to start for pricing. Know a guy who has a bank of them in his Delica - works a treat with all the 4WD kit he's got.

The guys at Croydon Park auto electrical are pretty good - they're on the left hand side of Georges River Road just past the macca's and school (heading towards ashfield/city). They do all sorts of alternator/starter recos - have a good rep around the locals. If you're gonna get a new battery - get the biggest one (in terms of CCA) you can fit in the space. The oddessey (or similar) batteries are great and low maintenance.

Sounds like a battery issue to me Maybe time to get a new one. See if you can borrow one from someone for a couple of days to check. If it's not the battery, then it's the charging circuit from the alternator. To check the charge output of your alternator. you'll need a multimeter for this.. 1. Start the car up. 2. Leave it idle for a minute or so for the idle to settle in. 3. Ensure all lights, wipers, stereo, A/C is off. 4. Put the meter across the battery the voltage across the battery should be somewhere between 13 and 14 volts - anyone here know the exact range (it's usually in the manuals for the electrical system).

Thanks for the reply.. I probably should clarify futher - I'm looking at getting a consult doverhicky to add to my tool collection (when I find one at the right price) and of course for use when I find the 'line of my dreams One of the planned mods for my new baby will be a PowerFC, what I'm trying to figure out is if I am wasting my time (and cash of course) on the CONSULT cable/dongle/thingy, when it'll become useless once the PowerFC comes along - or will I still need the consult stuff to get errors and run diags on the other vehicle systems.

Ok - Stupid Question time again (I love writing these), but as a n00b to skylines one I feel I have to ask Does the consult interface monitor the other systems in the car (ABS, HICAS, etc) or just the engine functions? If yes.. then does the power FC upgrade take over these functions, or is the consult interface still required?

I had something similar in a dunnydore - turned out to be the brake switch (on the brake pedal linkage under the dash).

looks good to me.. damn thing would be too expensive to send to Sydney. check out this guys ebay shop - same jack $10 cheaper http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-3500-Kg-Low-Pro...7QQcmdZViewItem

Cheers - thought it was something as simple as that

Hungry Jacks Manager here - between stores atm.. will edit once posted somewhere perm.

A fan of the 80's (well music at least anyways, still trying to work out the fashion)... Also anything that's not too hard, and no 50c (although I wouldn't pay that much for a CD of his), eminem and the likes... At the risk of sounding like my parents (and probably everyone elses too), not to mention digressing into a rant... any song that has the words n****r, b**ch or the "f" word repeated, contains constant references to drugs and shooting people, or generally being a bunch of d**kheads then it can't be called music.. whoops ranting soz.

Hi All... I'm new to the skyline scene (looking to purchase my first one) - so as a n00b feel free to flame me for lame q's But doin some research in prep for the purchase - I noticed there are two models in the R33 space - ECR33 and BNCR33. This may be an obvious one, but anyone know what the differences are?