R33silverS2

Hey I'm really hoping there is a simple solution to this problem but then again i'm prepared for the worst. Basically my car now runs sh#thouse on boost. Driving around town feels normal and fine but as soon as you give it a little say over 50% throttle, it holds back, and feels like its labouring - like being in to high of a gear, then kicks in and drops out again. It only started doind this in the last day or so, and previously it had been running real well on 11psi since the new pump and safcII tune. But now it feels like its going into R&R type of mode or something real early in the rev range - from about 2000rpm. something is definately wrong, boost still ramps up to 11psi but the car feels DEAD - as in overtaking would prove an issue... Any ideas??? Anyone encountered this problem before and fixed it??? Mods are listed in signature, plugs were re-gapped to .8 when i had the cooler done. It was fine before, so some existing part has stuffed up i would think. Any help would be much appreciated - I'm sick to death of this thing being so temperamental.

They are the same thing. All gts-t's are gts25t's the 25 just stands for 2.5 litre engine displacement. GTST is just the short form, as its easier to say than ' i have a gts twenty five t '. Which i believe if im not mistaken stands for grand touring sports turbo, therefore no real need to say the 25, as mosty people will understand that it is a 2.5lt.

The Vac line from the top of the bov should run directly to the plenum, the same as the stock setup. Also the turbosmart bovs have an adjustable spring compression by rotating the head of the bov. You may just need to turn it clockwise to harden up the spring if you havent already done so.

Good luck with a series 2 for under 13k sounds like it would be.... err... trouble free yeh thats it. You'd be better off looking at a good nic r32 if thats all your willing to pay. I'd like a 33gtr but only wanna pay 22k for it... reckon it'll be sweet...

True, I saw some for around 16 that look fine in pics but upon inspection were in really bad condition. buy one under 16k and most probably it will be not very good to put it kindly. Or simply put a pos.

R33 at the end of the day there are nice examples of both just as much as there are BAD examples of both.

You get what you pay for, i wouldn't buy i s2 for 12k IF there was one for that ridiculous price. i think 15 - 18 is prob a bit more on the mark. Just check carsales.com. easy.

Just drill it directly opposite the barb running to the wastegate. So yeh like the pic.

I drilled a 1mm hole in my turbotech one, 1.5 prob would have worked fine as well. The turbosmart ones have a different setup to the turbotech which is ball and spring. With the turbotech you wind the top in for more boost and with the turbosmart you wind it out for more boost as i believe the turbosmart ones are a bleedvalve type of setup. Due to this i am not sure how you could successfully modify the turbosmart tee to make it work efficently. Prob better off just buying a turbotech, sucks i know, but at least the turbotech's are cheap. cheers

I drilled a 1mm hole in my turbotech one, 1.5 prob would have worked fine as well. The turbosmart ones have a different setup to the turbotech which is ball and spring. With the turbotech you wind the top in for more boost and with the turbosmart you wind it out for more boost as i believe the turbosmart ones are a bleedvalve type of setup. Due to this i am not sure how you could successfully modify the turbosmart tee to make it work efficently. Prob better off just buying a turbotech, sucks i know, but at least the turbotech's are cheap. cheers

Sometimes they just never understand... Your finished buying stuff for you car right.....? Hmmm...

I go to uni during the week. - Retail

BTW the turbotech ones WITH the hole work well, and the lag is no where no as noticable.

Basically the turbosmart ones are no good. I bought one for over $100 bucks and when you changes gears the lag would be really bad. There was no boost and it was all have to build again. Was really really noticable as you would be hammering in first then shiftt to 2nd (quickly) and the car would feel real flat, and then slowly build. The turbosmart ones don't allow for air to escape between the actuator and the controller. Keeping the air in the line during gear shifts causes the wastegate to stay open hence you loose all you boost and have to build it up again - bad design. I bought a turbotech as a replacement but still found it laggy till i drilled a hole in it. (some come with the hole others don't dunno why). HAve a look at the turbotech thread + search for turbocmart bleed and you'll find the answers.

I'm keen but yeh getting off work is the real issue.

I can see the tendancy to want to go illegal. Both my cars have had tint darker than the legal limit. 35% is really not dark at all, in the pic above of the white 33 its really the angle that makes the 35's look kinda dark there, in real life they will just look like a camry tint. I have 5% on my car at the moment on all the windows (my choice so don't try and tell me how silly it is as i have heard it all before from others who don't have the tint) and it really does look quite good. Not as hard to see out of as everyone makes out, i even still have the optioned rear blind in my car ( Broad daylight and no chance of seeing through the back from outside ) Reversing in side streets at night can be a bit of a problem though ah well its the price you pay i guess for a stealthier look. (keeps the car nice and cool on the inside too ) 20% is a good medium, noticably darker than the 35's whilst not looking super illegal or too hard to drive with at night.

What year you talking about> Sounds something like a 560sec google em see if its what ya talking about. Big two doors 5.6lt v8 rear windows can go down etc.

^^ I was under the impression you were selling it.

The is a turorial on the bosche pump in the diy section, it should explain it there. I am not totally certain on what exact parts you need but you will definately need them to adapt it to your car. The parts should only cost like 20 - 30 dollars or so.

That looks like quite a bit of a spike though 16.5psi down to 12.5, did stock boost on your car hold a flatter manifold pressure?? looks like it fluctuates quite a bit.

Yeh i think that is a fair enough statement i think along simulalr lines to when i'm driving but i was reffering to a p plater having a skyline and just running into a pole - some may most probably won't. IF the fines are loss of licence then its prob not really worth it but its up to the driver really, if they wanna run the risk (i did) then so be it. I was planning on getting my line when i turned 21 and off my p's but i sold my previous car a lil earlier than i expected.

It's not a straight swap like the nismo ones etc, you will require some bits and pieces to make it fit.

I had my r33 on my p's and was fine. That said it was only in the last 6 months or so of my p's that i had the car as i owned an na celica before that. I don't reccomend one as a 'first car' but to assume every p plater is an idiot and will crash is pure speculation. If you are sensible enough you will be fine. A mate of mine got pulled over in his rex on his p's and just got a $50 fine, this was a couple of years ago though so rules may have changed now. Everyone seems to be so anti drving of a turbo car or more specifically a skyline on your p's cos its 'illegal' but i reckon half of the skylines that people on here have have something if not a few things 'illigal' about them anyways. Seems a bit oxymoron.

I assume so, I didn't put it in myself but the mech / tuner didn't mention anything about new wiring.

Yeh it is fine if i prime it for a few secs i.e turn ignition key to on and wait a couple of secs then turn over. This is kinda annoying though as i would like it to feel like stock and just turn the key from off when you get into the car. I'm thinking maybe a one way valve in the fuel line could help possibly cos it doesn't seem to hold pressure when the car is switched off for a bit.