R33silverS2

Oh that sucks, you know you get an alarm with all the bells and whistles and it's just got more sh#t that can go wrong with it. I just want a simple alarm and immobiliser no more of this pager and what not.

Personally i think the guy had little to know idea what he was doin, cos the power curve before the tune was quite smooth and the one after was all over the shop. I'm gonna get a different tuner to look at it, then go back to where i originally got it done and see just what the hell is going on - cos i feel ripped off. I wound the corrections back to zero and in reckon the car pulls better! i will not be going back to these people...

See thats what i mean, you are having fuel taken out whilst mine is being put in!! i rekon the guy screwed me over- i put the seetings back to 0 correction and i reckon the car pulls heaps better.

Thanks for your help - can the unit be reset without too much difficulty? as in will i be able to take it to the guy who installed it and could he most likely fix this problem, or is my alarm totally shagged now?

Hi guys, my mods are as stated in my sig. Recently i had my safcII apparently 'tuned' and i would have assumed that in the higher revs especially, reffering to high throttle mode, that the correction would be made to make the car run leaner rather than richer. I found my car was hitting a fuel cut or something at around 10psi on cold nights which never happened before. So i checked the setting of high throttle and this is what i found. 1400 -3% 1600 -16% 2200 0% 2400 -1% 3400 +3% 4000 +11% 4600 +13% 5200 +17% 5800 +6% 6400 +16% 7000 +10% 7600 +10% Now would this explain why i am hitting this fuel cut? cos the ecu now thinks its getting even more air than it rwally is?? Unfortunatley the 'tuner' never provided me with afr's or anything but you would assume with the mods i have and standard management that the car would already be runnign hella rich... like 300 km's per tank (fairly heavy throttle at times though ) Do these settings seem right for the mods i have? - i would have expected (-) correction in th higher revs...

I have intructuctions but only one remote. If i take the module out is ther anything i can do to try and fix it?

Hi guys I have a page guard alarm system in my car which i had installed shortly after purchasing the car and have not had any problems up untill now. The unit has a lcd (i think) pager remote which takes 1 AAA battery. This morning when i went to open the car, the battery in the pager had gone flat. Problem is i keep some spare batteries in the glove box incase one goes when i'm out somewhere. So i had to open the car with the key - which made the alarm go off as expected, now usually i would then just replace the battery and stop the alarm by pushing one of the buttons on the pager - but it would not stop, i tried closing the doors, different batteries, kill switch, everything and the alarm would not disengage. It's like as if the alarm no longer corresponds with the remote / pager. Ususally when you disarm the alarm, the pager says 'disarm' then is shows a pic of a lambo with a moving red arrow to clarify that it has been dis-armed. When you press the button now the remote says 'arm' and has no follow up picture or anything. I ended up having to find the module for the system and dis-connect the main harness to turn it off... I know this sounds a bit technical but i was hoping there could be some alarm guru's out ther who could possibly shed some light on the situation. Thanks guys

Cool thanks steve

Na - ditch the solenoid

The trust one on the whlspn car looks pretty cool though. I like how that car is nice and clean looking.

totally agree. ghey standard bars ftw. GTR bars are good - real ones

hmm seems like cubes got to it first^^lol

Yes front mount systems add some lag to the setup but i feel that it is more throttle response rather than on gear changes at WOT that it effects. A simple test is just remove the boost controller and put a tee piece back in or a line straight from the ic piping to the actuator and you will see that the boost response is much better on changes-basically instantanious - hence the controller is causing the wastegate to stay open too long...

If your getting 14psi with the restrictor removed and no turbotech i would personally just take that and it little bit of creep and enjoy the crisp response opn gear changes over using the controller to reduce creep but lag on changes. The lag on changes really sh#ts me, its why i changed over from my turbosmart one but is no imrpovement, might even lag more...

Not sure about the valve idea but worth looking into i suppose. I want to see what happens if i put a hole in it cos then it has a route to vent the air left in the line and hence closing the gate. So are you saying that you have removed the restrictor and are using a turbotech ontop of that mod to get to the 14lbs? Our one reached about 13.5 - 14psi with the restricotr removed, standard exhaust, turbosmart bov, and power intake. Anyone with the one with the hole, does it work to reduce lag???

Well if the one i got was supposed to be 'the improved' one then the first one must have been shyte. Cos gear changes certainly arn't that magnificant.

I think its prob got more to do with the controller than the bov. I think its because the controller doesn't let the air escape that is in the line between itself and the wastegate - thus keeping the wastegate open and letting all the boost out which is why it has to build again. I heard that the earlier models have a hole in the controller somewhere to vent this pressure out. Btw if you want to run 14psi on your s15 i would prob reccomend not using the controller at all and just taking out the resrictor hose attached to the solenoid and replacing it with another hose like a fuel line hose or something. We did this on my brothers s15 and got 14psi with perfect gear changes- pretty much whl spin 1st 2nd 3rd. Cheers Btw can someone please tell me where the hole is supposed to be? and do the controllers with the hole in them working in preventing laggy gear changes??

Oh i see, Yeh it was when i tried to fix it cos at first it wouldn't boost at all - as in it was turned all the way in and would just go to 6psi and slowly climb. so when i opened it up and put it back in it did the opposite! probably was gonna go to infinite boost cos it got to 15 before i though ohh sh#t. Anyways holds now, but one thing ive found though is there is quite a bit of lag on the gear changes. Anyone else experienced this? mine doesn't have the hole in the top, I'm assuming this is why?

Hey was that hard to do? do you have to take the whole dash off or can you just un screw the cluster?? do you know the kind of led that will fit? Cheers

^^ bah?

Ok got my car back and first thing i did was take the turbotech off and pull it apart. I couldn't really tell if the spring was catching as i just tipped the controller upside down to get the ball and spring out. Anyways i turned the spring around so that the flat part was against the ball - it was the other way when i got it, and carefully made sure the spring wasn't getting caught and voila! works great now holds 10psi goes up to about 11 or so at times but my car has always had terrible boost creep. When i first took it apart and re-assmebled it something must have gotten stuck cos it was on unlimited boost i think and got to 15psi by 3000rpm till i totally freaked out... Anyways problem fixed either turning the spring around fixed it and the spring was stuck or something but works great now.

I will give it another go, when my car comes back from being serviced. Does anyone know what way the spring is supposed to go? is the cut part supposed to be against the bolt or against the ball??

bump

I recieved my controller today and installed it but have been quite dissapointed with the results . Boost comes on quite slowly when you put your foot down from low revs. Also i can't seem to get it to go over 10 - 11psi even with the controller turned in clockwise till it cant go any further. i looked inside and its got the ball and spring n everything but doesn't seem like its woking properly. I installed it where my old turbosmart bleeder was directly in between the ic piping and the wastgate actuator which used to create boost a lot faster but laged on gear changes and spiked a lil. Something must be wrong with the controller yeh? any idea's? BTW the srew bit is in line with the line coming off the ic piping, as in the screw is perpendicular to the line running to the wastegate- is this correct? Anyone had this issue before or simular? Any help would be great Thanks

yeh is really sucks, you actually just have to squeeze your hand in there. Your skin will most likely get peirced and scraped but without taking it all apart its the only way. Or maybe just put the car on carsales if you can't get it out.