R33silverS2

thanks man, i guess i'll just have to fiddle around, maybe ill practise removing the headlight globes with my eyes closed...

Ok i have tried a search but there wasn't mush help regarding the driving lights / for light assembly on the s2 r33. I have changed the globes with some H1 phillips for the low and high beams, also i changed the parkers which mind you were an absolute pain in the a## to get out (Dont know how i squeezed my hand in there, cuts and bruises). Anyways i am wanting to change the globes for the driving lights down the bottom. Does anyone know how i get the globes out? I had a reach under the car and twisted the round cap off but i still cannot manage to get to the globe (doesn't help seeing i cannot see the housing...) Do i have to get the bumper off to do it properly? And secondly what sort of globe is in the driving light assembly i.e H1, H7 etc. I heard somewhere it was H7, can anyone confirm this. Thanks

Ok i have tried a search but there wasn't mush help regarding the driving lights / for light assembly on the s2 r33. I have changed the globes with some H1 phillips for the low and high beams, also i changed the parkers which mind you were an absolute pain in the a## to get out (Dont know how i squeezed my hand in there, cuts and bruises). Anyways i am wanting to change the globes for the driving lights down the bottom. Does anyone know how i get the globes out? I had a reach under the car and twisted the round cap off but i still cannot manage to get to the globe (doesn't help seeing i cannot see the housing...) Do i have to get the bumper off to do it properly? And secondly what sort of globe is in the driving light assembly i.e H1, H7 etc. I heard somewhere it was H7, can anyone confirm this. Thanks

Why did you decide on an s1?

Yeh thats where it comes from, it gets tee'd from the the bov hose going to the plenum cos the cooler did not have a nipple to attach to. thats sounds exactly like my problem, some nights its a high as 14 and all it does is scare the sh#t out of me not cos its going any faster but cos i'm worried about the blades flying off the shaft... thanks for the advice i will change it.

Yeh i will be up for it to i am also se suburbs not that far from the city though (Canterbury) let me know if any lines are gonna cruise somewhere around se suburbs.

its actually in mmhg * 100 where +7 is roughly 1 bar or around 14 psi

I have overboosting problems as well after i added my front mount and 3" turbo back exhaust. Mainly just with the second stage. In first stage i.e <4600 the car runs about 6 - 7 psi then in the second stage it runs as high as about 13 which is causing me problems with overfuelling etc. Rather than blocking off one of the vac lines on the standard solenoid, can i just unplug the solenoid via the black snap fit clip? I.e to run with out the solenoid opening and creating the higher boost...

sorry should have quoted my top sentance ^^

34s aint JUST a bigger cooler and a less restrictive exhuast....the engine....compared to a r33 is also better. being a new NEO version of the RB25DET it has alot more advantages over the 33. I never said they were JUST a bigger cooler an exhaust, i was merely giving an example such as doing an exhaust mod on a 34 compared with a 33... Any one who thinks it would be hard to extract power from a 34 would have to be nuts

your car will crank really slowly or slower than usual anyways. Also you can get them tested at any battery, wheel tyre, racv etc etc. I replaced mine with a non-maintanence sealed type only cost about $72. Battery's in skylines don 't seem to last very long...

I dont see how it would be any different than extracting more power from a 33. The 34 gtt has a slightly bigger cooler and slightly less restrictive exhaust, hence doing a cooler and exhuast to it will reap slightly less results than in a 33 gtst. But then again you have more power and torque to begin with...

one word... awesome that colour looks mad when its that clean. I want one!

My problem sounds just like many of the above. ever since i got the cooler and dump / exhaust etc installed the car seems to spool up a whole lot after about 5000 rpm to about 12psi and yet not seem to pull any harder. Sometimes it does but when it's colder it doesn't and it just backfires on high boost. Which leads me to believe that its got to do with a /f ratio's from the std ecu and the car is therfore running way to rich especially on the higher boost. I am gonna get an safc and hopefully that will fix the problem when i lean it out a little. Also shortly after i got the exhaust done the a /f ratio display on the apexi pen timer ceased to work. Do you think my oxy censor has carked it?

Off the topic but i thought superlows wern't made for skylines. Do you have superlows?

From what i understant r33's weigh 1370kg. I wasn't aware that the r32 had two different weights depending on year. I thought they were 1290kg, which would actually make it 80kg (correction) either way it is between 50-110kg which the larger displacement more than makes up for anyways. By the way i dont have anything against 32's quite like them actually, just figured when i was buying that the 33 was a better everyday drivers car just being generally newer with more features like airbags, abs etc.

you could easily get 17"s withj that width. my 33 has 17's and the rears are 255 40's.

I have the same mods on my s2, 3" turbo back exhaust, pod, tube n fin front mount cooler. No boost controller but car runs ( in second stage) much higher boost than stock. Around 12psi. Due to the 3" dump etc. Was thinking of getting an ebc like an avcr to turn it down and run say a flat 10PSI cos the car runs real rich now. Backfires n stuff under high boost, so instead i'm gonna get an safcII to tune the air/fuel ratio's so it does'nt run so rich. Arn't those turbosmart bleedtap style controllers ment to spike heaps? If your car runs anything like mine with those mods i wouldn't have a bleedtap.

S2 33's are awesome cars, hence why i bought one. I get tired about people complaining about the wieght as stated earlier there is only 70kg difference with the r32. And the Power to wieght ratio is heaps better with the 33 than the 32 anyways due to the larger displacment etc and is infact close to the power / weight ratio of a gtr. They are an awesome all round car, good looks, heaps of power, easy to modify and extract more power, solid, don't feel tinnie on the road like silvia's do and handle well. Make sure you drive a few cos you will see a bit of a difference between one selling for $16 and one for $20.

IMO the reason s2's look sweet is cos of there standard front bar, I agree with paul and putting a gtr bar on an s2 also looks odd cos the headlights are sharper on the s2 and it just doesn't really work. The s1 on the other hand is a different story...

Always loved the shape of them since i was about 15. Loved the look of all the models but really took a liking to the 33. Drove my mates 33 6 years later and had to get get one for myself. Sold my celica quicksmart! Rwd, heaps of power, tough looks, awesome induction and exaust note just has to have one. So went out and got myself a newly imported silver s2

Those white buddy clubs look fresh as. Makes me wanna get white rims on my car now! Ive got 17's not sure what though came with the car when imported. P.S S2's easily look the best in silver!

The Black grill is an aftermarket product sold in japan that can be bought for s1's or s2's. The chrome badge is the standard s2 badge which all s2's have from factory. So the chrome badge was never added to your car, the red one was.

thanks guys ill check it out, i think the mechnical boost gauge will be my next step.

Recently i fitted my 33 with a 3" turbo back exhaust and a hybrid fmic. up until then the car was running standard boost, about 5psi till 5000rpm then jumped to about 7. Now with the exhaust and cooler on, the boost is about 7psi till 5000 then it jumps to about 13. I am getting this reading off the standard boost gauge, where after 5000rpm the needle is just before the +7. I am aware that there should be a slight increase in boost after a zorst and cooler, but does this seem to high? If so, what do you think the problem could be? Ps there is no boost controller on the car.