R33silverS2

The problem with some dealers and i experienced with power rd a couple of years back was that half the time they have no bloody idea if your serious or not, I enquired about a car, got no service - guy obvisoulsy thought i just wanted to 'joy ride' so i took my 20k else where and went to a different dealer, who had me test driving that day, and what do you know i bought the car. The sort of people that are going to come into an import yeard looking at skylines and generally not going to be mid thirties in a gucci suit so if they wanna sell some cars they should respect more of the customers. same goes for workshops with me, good customer service goes a long way, and i have been to many different workshops around Melbourne and the ones that i decided not to return to are no longer - so i obviously wasn't the only one who thought this way.

doubling your power atw is going to be a very costly excercise... You'll need to fully rebuild your motor with forged internals, and have an extensive parts list to achive those figures. ecu, injectors, afm, fuel pump, head gasket, plugs, coilpacks, manifold, plenum, fpr, monster turbo, new dump, ext wastegate, boost controller, cams, pistons, rods, just to name a few, the list goes on and on and i'm sure ive missed a lot of things too. Do more searching around the forced induction threads and you should find the answres you need.

The dyno will calculate all of the above so if you want a specific one i.e afr, just ask Ray to plot afr vs power. Thats prob what he'll give you anyways...

I will be there on trade day, can't wait. it will be a very exciting event with a lot of new reveals from local manufacturers. All I can say it that us (holden) will have quite a suprise for people and will take away some of the attention of the new falcon reveal

Good to hear your've had good results with the sr20 . My bro sold his s15, that you would have seen on a few of the cruises, and bought a 32 gtr in gunmetal, I think he was somewhat inspired from your dads car...

so annoyed this was not aired!!! damn you other states!

^^ what time did your stock 34 run last time?

Yeh the price is pretty bad, but I'm pretty keen to take my car to the strip whether it be calder or heathcote. My car only ever sees 8:00am and 5:30pm traffic these days

Hey Daniel how many runs do you get for the $65?

another RE day I'll be there for sure, Look forward to meeting somemore members

Holy cr#p that sucks, didn't realsie it cost so much to get over here.

isn't the HKS gtrs about 2200 from nengun not 2800?

Sweet pics. ^^ yay some pics of my car

I totally agree with the above ^^ I must say when i first read about this, my first thought was that your mechanic had no idea as he should know that any r33 with standard ecu does not like boost above 12psi. R33 ecu's are very difficult to re-tune and even if yours has been to some degree, it obviously hasn't removed the factory over boost protection. You can boost an r33 to 20psi if you want ans the turbo will try and make it but the ecu will run different maps and result in less power to save your engine. On cold nights i would often hit this and in worst case would hit what felt like a fuel cut - as Al said caused by the cold denser air. The other thing is your mechanic should know / have told you not to be running anything over 10psi without an fmic or intercooler upgrade as your intake temps would be very bad and dangerous for the engine. Go somewhere that deals with skylines regularly, and run your boost under 11 till you get more supporting mods.

What ecu do you have?? Did you mention one, or do you just have standard? Cos r33 ecu's freak out after 12psi, and run very badly. Rich and retard which would explain your non-feeling of boost when the car shows its on boost as the mixtures are ritchened and the timing retarded by the ecu to prevent it knocking and overboosting etc. If this is the case, turn the boost down to 11psi and it will go back to normal and probably still make simular figures power wise. Put it this way my car makes 202rwkw on 12psi, whereas you did 190 on 15psi... -mind you i have a powerfc. A cheaper fix is an safc. I also wouldn't reccomentd running more than 12psi on the standard ceramic hairdryer... unless you want it flying out the back of your exhasut and or potentailly into the engine. Also on my standard ecu i experienced this violent jerking you speak of, kinda feels like someone slamming on the brakes when your on boost, and if you didn't have a seatbelt on you'd fly through the windshield.. All i can say is the standard ecu is rubbish with increased boost. Turn the boost to 10 -12 and both your problems should be fixed.. and remember your still gettin use out of your boost controller as that boost is still double that of factory.

Thats what i have always said from the start... the pump, yet I had it taken out and checked by my current tuner / mech and he said it flowed fine and looked all good, and he wasn't the one who put it in, so had no reason to lie or anything. Unless it just doesn't operate properly when the fuel heats up or the lines heat up or something? Cos it starts in the morning fine, (with the 2-3second prime) that whats really confusing me... The check valve, is that like a one way anti-drain valve? I told my mech I wanted to put a Walbro in as a replacement, and he said it wasn't neccasary, the worst thing about it is when its at the shop its hard for the tuner to replicate cos it only happens after the car has been driven and warmend up to operating temp, then left sitting for an hour. Gees maybe its what ive been suspecting all along and the pump just sucks.

I'm not sure whether or not the bosch check valve was used, as i didn't install it, it was put in at a workshop, this workshop is also convinently not around anymore so i cant exactly ring and ask.. :S I have had it checked though and the pump was said to be fine and the install fine too apparently. I just started the car about an hour after i last drove it (when the problem occurs) and primed it 3 times , ign on, off, on, off, on and the car started no problem....

Cheers thanks for the diagram.

Whatt!!! Suely turbos as well for that figure?? I remember your thread wanting parts, congrats.

I agree with your opinion, I just thnik my mate will be a lil dissapointed when he finds out that the intake temp sensor was faulty and that he's been under the impression of having a much higher powered car than he has... Cos he has been using the same dyno since the car was stock. Ah well, maybe he'll hurry up and decide to single turbo it then

An hour or so after driving my car and then trying to restart it, the car just cranks and won't fire, yet will fire next go without fail. It seems as if its not getting fuel for some reason... and then when you try and start it again it had sucked up fuel into the lines from the previous starting attemp. Coolant sensor may be a good idea, but it seems to start fine in the morings and when cold so leaking injectors could probably be ruled out. Only has problems to start after its been driven. - like once the fuel has had time to drain away and lose pressure... so not straight way after driven for example, but like an hour later - i have a bosch 040 and seems to have arisen after that went in. But in terms of the heat, sensors sound logical. It is very frustrating...

thanks guys, maybe one of the two could be causing my starting issues..

TBH I was very suprised when i went with him and he made 184awkw, it was after we put on a new top mount cooler and some more boost, I was expecting more around 140 odd. Although i think something must have been up with the 117 figure, not saying it was to do with the dyno or settings, but prob his car then, cos we dynoed it stock and it made 120awkw and now has full exhaust, bigger top mount, cai, and boost controller. I think it would have probably been his clutch maybe. Hmmm He's not going to want to hear about the sensor being faulty though, He'll be shattered...oh well guess Ray will have to break to him - be gentle... :S

Ok so i know that these two parts have something to do with the fuel system as they have fuel lines running off them and connect to the fuel rail, but what are they and what do they do exactly?

Few figures were odd. If its any concilation my mates twin turbo legacy pulled 117awkw where it had previously made 184awkw on the same dyno. wierd