Crans

Love it, real turbo's only need oil

Been a few months with no progress updated. Installed a Greedy carbonectic twin plate, decided gearbox can go back on with out any attention(Hopefully some good oil can mask the slight crunching form 1st to 2nd). And today after a little nudging the engine and gearbox are back in, along with some scratches on my nice paint job on the cam covers .

$600

Around 1000km use on my R33 GTS-T, upgrading to id1000's to make use of the special Adaptronic injector control code for the ID's $650 posted anywhere in AU. Cost new is $780.

PM sent

Will this suit an r33 gtst?

$500 shipped to WA

I take it you are now confident your car can out run the cops? Worst case engine is stuffed, insurance replaces it and hopefully your issues are fixed. You've spent way too much time and money to give up on it.

Hmm, my Hybrid top mount bolted up with no issues. I did modify the wastegate port slightly but that was due to me obessive complusive disorder with my car, i wanted it a few CM further away from aircon lines

1.5 very slow progress but getting there

Are your plugs stuffed up from all that oil? Yeah didn't read the whole post did I Check the earth for the ignitor.

Finished painting rocker covers over the weekend <- Will post up pics when they are bolted on. Also I didn't like how my oil cooler lines were routed so I just ordered some -10 bulkhead fittings so I can more easily rout them. Any one see a problem with this approach?

Just some dash parts that are scracthed, though it would look good in CF

Wanna come do some CF wrapping for my wifes xr6 turbo?

Thought it was about time i cleaned up the cam covers. First step was to fill in the little factory dent. I used a fibre glass reinforced heat resistant bog. And it dosnt look too bad after alittle bit of sanding. Will put some primer on this one and start running back the other side this weekend. Also heat wraped the exhaust manifold last night.

Nothing a tune can't fix, my R33 did the same thing with an rb20 ecu fitted, there is quite a lot of timing pulled in the stock map when the temp is really cold.

Manifold and turbo bolted up yesterday

Ensure you use the correct restrictor in the oil line. If the kit is specially for a BB GT30 then it should already be restricted correctly

Yeah standard kando but with anti surge cover, been trying to get a replacement for it as i ordered the non surge item.

Can lend you an unused T67, if youd like to test another turbo.

Though i'd post up whats i've been doing to my car. It's been off the road for 2 years with not much done to it(Mostly due to work getting in the way). I purchase the car 3 years ago, fairly stock apart from suspension, a 3.5" HKS exhaust and HDI boost controller. I quickly installed an r32 ECU with Nistune and VCT controller, a Hypergear ATR28G4 turbo(ATR43G3 now days) and APEXI AVCR boost controller. After some ghetto road tuning on my own I got it running pretty well, slightly laggy but real nice top end. Would flog a tuned 33 with the standard turbo, but was also maxing out the injectors. From the day I purchased the car it had stalling issues if you coasted and put the clutch in, so I started trying to work this out. First went in a new alternator as I noticed the ECU voltage would fluctuate alot. Spent alot of time leak testing the engine, ended up removing the fuel vapor system as this was leaking air. Also replaced my damaged HKS interncooler.No other leaks were found. Car continued to have the stalling issue. Next I installed a DW300 fuel pump and 740cc DW injectors. Tuning the new injectors did not go well at all, idle was stuffed and was all over the place. I could either get fueling good at WOT with crap idle, or i could get idle working ok but WOT was extremely rich. To me this looked like there was still an air leak. After mush searching and research i finially found the previouse owner has setup the PVC system incorrectly, meaning at idle/vacume there was a massive air leak, fixed this and took the car for a test drive...... Car idled perfect, car drove perfect of boost and did not stall, slight adjustmed to injector settings and she boosted perfect awell., then.... 100m from home the car died, could not get it started and ended up getting it towed home. After taking pretty much every thing apart, finally found the issue, the connector to the fuel tank(On the actual lid) was corroded, totally unrelated to everything else i had done. While all this was going on I aquired a 44mm Gate and one of those NZ top mount manifolds. Spend alot of time getting the manifold on to find the wastegate pipe was too close to the chassis and air con lines, off it comes for modifications. I then purchased a t67 to replace the hypergear turbo, and also got my hands on a greddy style plenum for free. Since the gearbox needs work and a new clutch is needed I though it would be easier to do all this work with the engine out. Since i have an external oil cooler i replaced the stock filter neck with one from an RB20 Plenum installed Injectors and TB installed Exhaust manifold will be cleaned up and installed over the next month when i get time, will post up some more pics.

Yeah engine is out of the car. I will give the Chemtech a go.

Sweet, just gotta find a place to hire one now. Mainly need to get in around the spark plugs

I have removed my engine to get a number of thing's done to my car. Whats the best way to give it a good clean? High pressure steam gun along with lots of degreaser? Degreaser alone does not seam to get into the hard to scrub places.

Use my trick take the clutch off. put a bolt in where the clutch bolts on to the flywheel and a bolt in where the gearbox bolts go. The wrap some wire around the 2 10 - 15 times depending on the wire thickness. This was enought for me to undo flywheel bolts without the crank turning