Crans

Stao, Yes I do plan on sending the turbo back to you to get checked out but i have to wait until i can have my car off the road for a week or 2. Public transport in my area is pretty sad. I will try and remove it this weekend. I had to clock my turbo my self as nothing lined up on the rb25, i cant see that the actuator is being fowled on anything, but i aint no turbo expert, hopefully it is something simple like that

Details and your theory would be good and might help others like myself battling lag

Yes I know when in closed loop the afr should swing rich to lean to rich etc. If you knew exactly how it worked then you would know that anything richer that stoich is seen as rich by the ecu and anything leaner than stoich in seen as lean by the ecu. Meaning the rich to lean to rich swinging should all be very very close to stoich. When monitoring using a wideband you don't actually see the swinging like you would a narrowband guage all you see is a twitch in the numbers/graph. When having the idle issue my idle is sitting at lean no swinging nothing like that. And yes of course the car has been warmed up first.

Little update on this problem. I have disconnected my narrow band sensor and fed my Techedge widebands narrowband sim output into the loom. Car is running a lot better mostly sticking at around 14.9arf Still at idle tho its hitting mega lean and slowly moving back to 14.9afr. I should not have had to replace the sensor as its only a year old. I think it may have been damaged by being too close to the turbo. Back to the lean idle problem I am thinking there are 2 possible problems. 1. I do in fact still have an air leak. And now that the closed loop is working properly it is able to bring the afrs back to where they should be. 2. My idle needs to be reset. Will continue to play with it.

im pretty sure it dosnt matter if you get a manual or auto ecu the code is rewritten to suit your needs any way. Because your car is a series 2 thereare afew little issues we have found lately with the z32 ecu. One was fixed fairly easily the other is causing false knock to be detected making the car run on knock maps, hopefully the issue will be figured out soon

My wife has an SS Ute 6 speed manual, trust me stick with the skyline. There clunky build quality is crap everything falls apart. Gearbox feels like a tractor. Engine in stock form isn't that torquie, Basically not that great to drive. Mod your skyline 400 ponies kicking out the back will get you back into it

For starters, I am using an rb20 ECU, a 0 on any cell on the fuel map is a theoretical Stoich so yeah it may go slightly leaner but not the constant 17-19 i was getting on the way to work today. So i either have a leak, or yeah may be an electrical problem. I might check for voltage drops on the injectors.

I doubt it should be sitting between 16 -19 afr on idle. Idle also slowly goes up and down. Alternator and ECU have been replaced. ecu is reporting voltage as a pretty steady 13.9v

After many many problem with my skyline i finaly found a vacume leak which i was hoping was the cause of my lean idle, lag and super richness on boost. I removed the charcole canister which is brocken and the car seams to run slightly better. Idle is still lean lag is still there but actual driving of the car feels alittle better. After parkig the car in my drive way after testing how it went I noticed when i pressed the brake pedal the rpm droped. So I pressed it multiply times and the rpm dropped below 500 nearly stalling the car. Any ideas here? Is this another air leak?

Oh didnt even catch that part. Yeah your car had big problems before the cam install

Cam timing is probably incorrect/cam installed wrong. All tho i have heard many stories of cams making the rb20 go backwards

Go the Z32 and nistune if your tuner has done it before. You can get it tuned for the same cost as just buying the other ecu's Im running an rb20 ecu nistune and msd rpm windows switch and it works well you could try this setup aswell

For an R33: Z32 ecu $150 nistune chip $220 Z32 $330 no need for the Z32 unless you have a bigger turbo and injectors aswell Good luck getting a R33 pfc for under a grand

Stao, i am really starting to think my turbo is causing all of my lag problems. I have replaced all my rubber joiners, new intercooler, replaced other engine bay hoses, disconnected boost gauge and boost controller and the car is still a laggy peice of crap. 3psi by 3000rpm 10psi by around 4800rpm all done in 4th gear. I replace one last hose today and noticed the turbo side of the car is alot louder that the front or other side. Car never had lag issue with stock turbo (Yes i know its a bigger turbo and will have more lag but not this much)

Sounds interesting A hoist is the one this i don't have access to. Any chance you have a dyno there?

If your ECU supports an IAC valve then use an RB IAC valve this way it can be configured to raise idle with aircon aswell

Well if you want to part it out ill take some interior parts

The r32 GTST ecu does have a kind of r&r based on the TP(Load) you are running the last load column in the fuel and ignition map is extremely rich and retarded. There is also a TP(Load) limit map set to 128 as default. this will cut fuel causing total loss of power. The knock maps have nothing to do with the r&r we are talking about they are a fuel map that is very rich on all cells and an ignition map that is retarded on all cells. Your timing looks pretty normal. This is obviously the timing that Nistune is reporting but have you checked and confirmed with a timing light?

Ceramic vs ceramic Head and pistons were ceramic coated but the plugs won. Quickest removal of an engine Jarod and i just figured out why. This is the first time we have ever worked on a car without a beer in our hands.

This could be your problem. Never tee in to the pressure line for the BOV leave it on its own line. Just like you never tee a boost controller on bov on to FPR or map sensor lines. The screw with the pressure.

PM Sent consider it sold

If its an r32 gtr the front bar is very easy to remove. Remove front lights afew screws and its done

Any decent ecu on decel will totally cut fuel. Changing your afr target leaner that stoich will save fuel but you also have to watch combustion temps not that it will do any harm while cruizing but a sudden hit of boost my not like the extra heat

Closed loop ecu? if so just change the closed loop target afr. At low rpm ou shouldnt need to adjust the timing at all

XR6 Turbo engine in an r32/34 GTR would be nice