Crans

I have a R32 ECU running my R33. I Should have gone the Z32 as It cost me another $300 for a VCT controller. Any ideas where I can buy afew Z32 ecus?

I think this turbo is the same as my ATR28g4. Getting slightly better spool now with my alternator changed. Hitting 1 bar just after 4000rpm with no boost controller. 10psi Actuator with heap of preload

Turn boost controller off take it for a run not when you hit max boost. Adjust arm length a tiny bit and go for another run and not when max boost it ( boost will likely increase as well) Keep doing that until you get no more gain but be careful your not over boosting. When you have found the sweet stop user boost controller to hit desired boost.

Yeah Toshi will do it or go a Z32 ecu with nistune should be similar price to R33 ecu remap

Love this game nothing like hog tying whores and leaving them on the train tracks

If he is buying a half cut he will already have a gearbox will be more expensive to sell the 26 box and buy a 25 box than to mod the 26 box

Get a new sump to remove front drive sharft modify gearbox to remove front wheel drive stuff install into car with the 26 loom and ecu

BOV return port being too close to the afm is probably causing the issue. get a new connector welded on close to the turbo and angled towards it or relocating the afm will also fix but will require a tune adjustment

If switching to a MAP sensor ecu the ecu uses air pressure, air temp and normally a VE map to determine air entering the engine.

Wasn't me that connected the jumper leads I can safely say i have never been that stupid. New battery has been running fine for the last 3 months. So problem is low running voltage. Could this still be the fusable link?

I think the stock ecu was damaged in the mishap but now running a nistuned rb20ecu with vct controller. nothing else seams to be damaged. Time to visit a sparky me thinks.

I am pretty sure my alternator is stuffed. The start of the problem, apart from car generally running like crap. Installed a new turbo, this took weeks due to excessive beer drinking while working and having custom intake pipes made, forgot to disconnect battery for some of this time so it went flat. Jump started car. First attempt mate had + and - around the wrong way = epic fail and sparks. Got car running apart from rough and lean idle and extreme lag all good. I went away for a week in march and battery went flat again. Took it for a 10 minute drive. Parked for 10 minutes car had to be push started. Then took it for a 1/2 hour drive and this was enough to charge the battery for the next start. Next day battery is flat. Replaced battery. New battery went flat shortly after. charged and it hasn't gone flat since. Now the big thing pointing me towards a stuffed alternator is the idle goes very rough and very lean when the lights are on. Found this out going through maccas drive through(Never drive my car at night so first time i noticed his) As a test on the way to work today i turned the stereo and all accessories off and the idle fueling was actually sitting quite normal around 14.7 - 15 So basically how do i test the alternator and is there any common R33 problems, like a bad earth or something like that before i go looking for a replacement. Also consult showed idle voltage as around 12v dipping sometimes to 11.9v, really though this should be more like 13v - 13.5v Also could the lack of power be causing a very laggy car? I was thinking not enough power to coil packs causing a weak burn? What are the options on replacement? will a rb30/rb20 one fit? Cheers for the help and sorry for the lengthy crap filled post.

May as well update this even tho car is gone. White smoke was from a massive build up of oil in the cooler pipes from the old engine. Engine problem was due to dodgy silicon joiner that would only open up under boost. Car ran perfect after this.

Thanks, In the mean time I will continue to look for other problems with my car as you said it shouldn't be this laggy.

And for this i have to send the turbo back to you. I guess i will have to deal with the lag until july when im on holidays and can live with out my car for a week

just buy a blown r33 turbo and send it off to get hiflowed will probably end up cheaper.

Stao I have checked my oil return, there was slight kinking but nothing major and i don't think it would have caused any oil flow issues. I have replaced it and there is now no kinking and it has not helped with the extreme lag at all. Still not getting 10psi till after 5000rpm. I have sprayed carby cleaner on all joints and hoses in the engine bay and there was no change in idle meaning there is probably not any air leaks. Exhaust is straight through 3" with no mufflers or cat(In the process of buying a metal cat). Any more ideas?

For starters what is your power goal? Also sell the Emanage to fund the turbo and go a remap/nistune it will be cheaper and probably work better.

Ummm unlkess you chasing 600rwhp or more nistune will be fine

Think of the giant air leak being created. Not good especially if you are running an AFM. Simple 12V pump would be so much simpler, Hobbs switch to turn it on via a relay done easy as.

yeah i like to tinker with my tuning. Get it running best i can the an hour clean up on a dyno with a pro tuning it

igniter?

I paid $280 deleivery from Rocket. The other unit needs 1 rpm module for turn on and 1 module for turn off.

MSD also have RPM window switchs that are configured using plug in modules instead of the nice LCD display. There cheaper aswell. Not like you even need to change the vct points.

Sorry I bought the last one from Rocket Good unit but pretty damn expensive. Search ebay for rpm switch. There are multiple options from the US. I saw one a few weeks back for $60US