Crans

Just purchased an rb20 oil tree setup of ebay aswell as new gaskets. Do i now need to use an RB20 oil filter? I believe the 25 filter has extras built in to do with pressure relief?

Well i have dissasembles the oil cooler unit and everything still looks to be in good shape, I might keep it on for now and just replace the hosing to it to make it a bit cleaner.

Sorry havn't had a change to get any pic's up yet. My main reasons for wanting to remove the cooler/warmer are reports of them leaking(My car is nearly 20 years old now) and to clean up the piping mess under the plenum. Do i need the warmer? My car is babied until up to temp, I will be putting in oil temp/pressure gauges. I rekon i could tig up an adaptor fairly easily, to replace the cooler and sandwhich plate. But idealy it woul be better if it was milled from a single peice of metal. Also findin the correct bolt for the adaptor will be the tricky part. When I get the pics up you will see what i mean.

Just wanted some thought's on what people do with there RB25 oil filter/cooler. Just taken the engine out of my R33 to finish up some hard to reach jobs, one of which includes a greedy style plenum install. My car has an external oil cooler and the sandwhich plate sits on top of the existing oil filter block and leaves the stock oil cooler in place. Im basically wanting to clean it up here are the options i can see: 1) Remove RB25 filter block(Including the so far hard to remove stud), and install an RB30 stud, This will allow the sandwhich plate to bolt directly to the block, pressure sensor will also need to be moved to the block 2) Install RB20 filter block and relocate the pressure sensor to the block 3) Leave everything as is and just remove the water lines going to the stock oil cooler What do you think the best option is? Problems i can see so far are: That damn stud for the stock filter setup is proving very hard to remove. Oil pressure sensor feels like it is too big to screw onto the rb25 block? Is there any chance of the stock cooler leaking or having issues with no water lines plugged in? Another idea i thought off while i disassembled the stock cooler is to make an adaptor that sits where the stock cooler is, this would then run directly to the new oil cooler without the need for the sandwhich plate. leaving the oil filter the screw in as the factory intended. I will post up so pics of everything when i get home tonight.

Glad i made the decision to purchased my plug in select. Car idled better than it ever did with stock ecu and an rb20 nistune ecu, unfortunatly thats as far as the ecu has gone so far. Car is in the middle of a 2 yeah stint in the shed for "upgrades"

Make sure the plenum is sealing to the stock runners correctly, a friend of mine had issues with this area leaking. Exhaust manifold should support over 400hp. Is the intercooler in good working order? Have you dropped the exhaust before the cat? Have you check the exhaust temp? Have you checked Cam timing is spot on?

I thought Motech only did exhausts?

My T67 is held together by the vband really tight.

I think prehaps he is refering to a 360+ degree movement of the speedo needle.

Lots of R&D in those housings, why change to something else?

A little update, finished modifying the wastegate pipe on my exhaust manifold

Gate on housing then gives you trouble with its piping, Either way theres a headache involved somewhere

I had no clearance problems with my R33, but the gate pipe was sitting way too close to the aircon lines, so i cut it and adjusted the angle slightly and it sits better now. That part could do with a slight redesign tho.

I purchased my old G3 with a 3" vband outlet basically replace the back plate that hold the actuator with the vband version

stuffed tourque converter

Find the reason for the deternation, then more timing = more power. Was the head rebuild? Any porting?

Are the inlet and outlet of the tial and TS the same? If so you can borrow the whole gate, keen too see this car finally running right. I wont be needing the gate for a few months

Pitty it's not a Tial 44mm i could have lent you my seal

I'd come give you a hand, im not too far away but out of the country till thursday. PM me if you dont have it sorted by next weekend

Tig would easily do it, many people dont even bother pre heating the cast

Where did you gt that heat shielding from? I'm planning to wrap my turbo like the xr6 turbo just cant find the material

Sounds like a OS giken stroker kit

I contacted him on Facebook and he said non antisurge should be back in stock August

Non anti surge housing should be avaliable this month and just loop the water lines

First find out how the r34 ecu triggers the pump. ie suply voltage to pull to earth Run a line form this ecu output to your fuel pump and use a relay to power the pump