Crans

Stoa do you have any results of the atr28g4 on an rb25? I am still suffering severe lag. i have installed a 10psi actuator to stop my car hitting R&R as soon as boost comes on. spool up is exactly the same with the 1kg actuator in. I have a tad over 2psi by 3000rpm and not hitting my max boost of 10psi until over 5000rpm. Any ideas?

already looked into this. Should be very simple, read in map sensor values read in air temp sensor add correction factor output 0 - 5v signal back to the ecu. Main thing would be the need for a complete retune of entire map, but this effort could be minimized with extensive logging of afm and map values in parallel(Similar to the holden MAFless tunes). I believe some one has also used TPS as loading on an NA Vl commodore using nistune

Installed my r32 ecu and all stalling problems seamed to be solved aswell as my low voltage lean idle, so im guessing dodgy ecu

Nistune still operates with the standard nissan consult instructions. The Nistune features operate with an extended version of nissan consult

Hopefully some of this info helps. Currently i'm just getting 3psi by 3000rpm not hitting full boost(tad over 9psi) until 4400

Where did you buy it from?

nah i built and connected the jaycar unit and it useless it uses low high triggers not rpm window. A friend is helping me build out own vtc controller using a amtel cpu

Install it all your self. And you can get the same sound for alot less money. Rip off door panels and install deadener you self pretty easy to do. Install splits while your at it. You will need some mdf to make some spacers/panels for the front speakers. Do the same for the parcel shelf. Get a 100wrmsx4 amp to run all the speakers. Then just install off the shelf subs/sub box with a 500wrms amp. Few $100 in installation parts + cost of stereo. Did door panels with a mate a few weeks ago, alittle time consuming but pretty easy to do

I should have mentioned before I have some experience mapping with Nistune on my old mildly modified R32 as well as mapping the Wolf ECU on my old S14. I have a techedge Wideband unit permanent wired in to the car. When i said configuration i meant exactly what you said Paul. I also realize with the 3 bar that 1 bar is vacuum and 2 bar for boost. I thought the lack of BOV might be causing the lack of boost response on gear changes. The internal gate has a lot of preload on it and is currently holding 0.7bar perfectly through to redline. I wont wire it shut for testing until i get it on the dyno i am quite careful with my car. So basically to loose the lag(or make is as good as it will get) i need to give it more timing before and during ramp up. Tune fuel to 13.5? in this area richening up as boost comes on to 12 - 12.5 depending on how nce and safe i want to be. So more details on the vct controller: Using an Amtel chip. Reading in the rpm signal from the ECU through a resistor, diode then an optio isolator, ensuring a nice clean signal. Software has been written to count the RPM, just working out the bugs now on the output that will ground the VCT wire on the loom. Also plan to use this board for data logging and maybe experiment with boost control, as i dont like my current unit too much. Thanks for the tips guys

Guys I am ready to start having a play with my tune. RB25det stock injectors(740cc coming soon) stock afm(Z32 on the way soon). Bosh 040 being installed as well. Running a Nistuned rb20 ECU with nearly complete home made VCT controller. I would like to log boost aswell where can i buy a map sensor that has a known configuration table? i was thinking a bosch 3bar? Also any tips on getting better boost response? I have a Hpyergear atr28g4 installed and it is very laggy and has a large pause on gear shift bfore it starts making boost again. I am not running a BOV atm but the stock item will be reinstalled soon. Any tips will be helpful

my home made unit was just tested looks promising just need to sort out a grounging issue which stops the tacho in the dash from working. rpm counter is slightly off but that dosnt matter quick fix should be a capacitor on the rpm feed to filter out noise

Dave has it right. Just got mine working(not tuned 100% tho) if you are driving revs hit 1200 vct activates you give it some throttle revs climb past 4700 vct turns off you quickly tap the breaks and revs drp below 4700 it dosn't re activate. you have to let the revs drop below 1200 fo it to be able to activate again. How much for the msd unit and where can i order from?

brand new battery. watching voltage levels while driving via nistune readouts

Just saw your sig. Elec work on the side need my altinator tested only putting out just 12v when driving

All soldered up should be as easy as connecting power, ground, ting off rpm signal from ecu. cutting vct wire on loom connecting to board the connecting other end of board to ground.

Haha I was just about to post a similar post on how to wire it up, just purchased my kit and half way done soldering

Put the car up on ramps and just cut the cat out. then use the angle grinder to smooth the flange off. then bolt up your new cat.

Slap the turbo on and tune the car to the max potental of your stock injectors, then its a simple tune tweek as you get your afm and injectors. exactly what i have done. I have a hypergear ATR28G4 on a midly modified r33. running .7bar actuator on stock ecu. i have an rb20ecu with nistune ready to fit. next step highflow injectors and z32

Factory high flow injectors are 740cc

It an atr28g4 i can do alittle fabrication is needed

Wanna sell me your hiflows when you replace them?

Stao few questions what type of vband clamp is used for my dumnp? i need to get another one quick. also will a r32 actuator fit on my car? i want to lower the boost to 10psi had a little delay in getting injectors sorted but want to start tuning

You need to tune it out, the ignition retard is simply the last load cell of the stock ecu ignition map being heavily retarded. In the upper rpm range the second last load cell "80" has 21-24 degrees of timing, the last load cell "96" has 3 -8 degrees of timing. only way to stop it is tuning or an interceptor to make sure the last load cell isnt reached

Yeah it has a nb output. didnt bother using it as my dump has 2 bungs I'll change the fuel filter, where do you get them and what part code?

Calibration changed nothing. it wont be the sensor the cruize afr sit in the 14's perfectly fine any ideas? I have checked for vacume leaks with a can of carbie cleaner and no change to idle. Would a stuffed altinator cause the fuel pump\injectors to flow less? i did notice when i pluged in nistune that to voltage level is barely hitting 12v? aslo sometime the wideband unit starts flickering to its heat cycle meaning not eough voltage to keep it hot