Crans
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Everything posted by Crans
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Stoa, Have you used a turbine housing like the one you made for me before? I just had my Front pipe and Cat replaced with 3" items and the turbo is now hitting over 15psi with no boost controller. I have loosened the preload on the actuator arm and noticed with how the Vband connecter is on the turbo the wastegate flat have very little room to move. I can take pics if you want to have a look.
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Just put a hypergear atr28g4 ig on the stock manifold with vband dump with extra bung for a techegde wideband. I do suspect the dump is leaking alittle at the vband clamp. It sounds fine while idling. I can plug in a mates motec PLM in the tail end and check it.
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ok shes running 17.5 - 18.5 on idle any ideas? o2 sensor was replaced less than 6 months ago.
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hmmm im getting much leaner than that have just cleaned my aac valve to fix idle and stall problem hopefully than helps o2 sensor was replaced just before i bought the car in october
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What should the afr's be hovering around at idle on an rb25det?
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I am using an Amtel Chip to make a vct controller for my RB25 running an RB20 ECU. Just need a little info on the RPM output pin from the ecu. I'm guessing it sends a pulse for every full engine revolution? is this a 5v signal or a 12v signal? Or am i completely wrong and it sends an analogue 0 - 5v signal?
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Boost controller has been turned off. Which way do i adjust to lower boost? Not keen on 1Bar until injectors are sorted
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Stao my turbo is hitting 1bar with the boost controller turned off, any ideas?
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What boost will the standard actuator run at with out any other forms of boost control?
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is the need for a bov based on problems/failed turbo's of yours? from what i know it is a myth. plenty of turbo cars have been released without a factory bov
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Just took car for another run to realise i wasnt hitting r&r at 12psi. i had a dodgy afm connector. Realised this after idle started going weird. When in engine bay knocked afm plug and car stalled. fixed as best i can and running better hitting around 14.5 psi dosnt really start making boost until 3500 slowly builds up to about 4psi at 4000 and then it really starts taking off. hitting r&r flat stop around 12psi then keeps going. sounds quite mean when you slap throttle closed as running no BOV. gonna install wideband unit today hopefully then start alittle tunning
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technically yes you could plug a map sensor in and tun it to work but it may require some firmware revision/external microprocessor
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Finally got everything hooked up. Had to unbolt the middle exhaust mounts to do some tweeking but all good. Here are some pics Hitting R&R at 12psi so its pumping out alot more air. The 28G4 is quite abit laggier but not that bad and after a tune it should be alot better. time to get the old Nistune software out will post results when i get it all done and on the dyno
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my atr28 has a 3" inlet already. Its all fitted now apart from the dump. Just wanted to make sure the stock front pipe is ment to bolt up so i dont waste my time.
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nah that fine just wanted to make sure, if i lossen the rest of the exhaust it should hopefully fit
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Stao is the dump pipe on my atr28g4 ment to sit in the factory location?
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I gave you your answer. But is it worth doing?
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Sell your PFC and go another ecu. Seams the Rb25 PFC's can sell for quit a bit of $$ and being a Pro you may get more. RB26 PFC can be modified to work on a RB25 so i dont see why it wouldnt work the other way around. But is it worth the effort?
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new afm my rb20 did the same thing
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I ended up getting a whole turbo outlet piping redone instead of just a dodgy bend. Here are the results
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420 if you want the software so 220 is correct for just the chip i know because it's the price i paid i also installed the chip myself
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Are you able to purchase only the electric sender? Would very handy for datalogging
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Rb20 ECU $120 Nistune chip with transplanted rb25det maps around $220 i think. Few $100 for quick tidy up fine tuning
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Kermit is on the job now will post up pics when finished
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need a 2.5" 90 deg bend