Crans

Step 1 Insure skyline. Step 2 ***Dodgy insurance claim.*** <- Sorry typo. Check wrecking yards and cars being wrecked. Step 3 Just get door painted and then save for a full good paint job if you really want one. Dodgy paint job will look like crap my GTR had one in japan and needs to be fixed now

THe car will drive exactly the same as if you changed afms and injectors using a PFC. Not to mention the tuners ability. I was very impress with Nistune in my GTST and have now installed it into my GTR

That turbo will allow for alot more power but it will be lag city, But when the boost ramps up boy what a feeling.

one afm was showing 4.6v the other only 4v and even then they shouldnt be that high no way nearly 300wk of air is comming out of the turbos

soldered up afms and first go she boosted in 1st and then started playing up again. Any oe got some working 32 gtr afms i can borrow to test with?

looks like its in the correct position.

Ok so ive started some proper checking before i buy the new rubber joiners tomorrow and i think i found something weird When the engine starts to cut out im going right off the load side on the fuel map. afm voltage was hitting past 4v this really dosnt seam normal. So that tells me it either boost leak(as suspected by alot of people even tho i cant hear anything) or my afm's are f**ked

My original engin had blow 5th piston so i purchased another engine with 2510's already on her. Currently running pod's. So since putting the engine in it has never ran right.

Cant you get the best of both worlds? External coil packs that don't waste none of those rare sparks? Motec coil system? Or something similar? Or is it the fact you can use cheap holden coils?

I'm gonna start pulling it apart again tonight then Thursday i will buy replacement joiners and clamps

This is with out fail all the time and the problem happens in the exact same way every time

It's not a tunning issue as the engine is completely stock apart from the HKS 2510 turbos. These turbos will flow nearly same air as the stock turbos at the same boost levels so where the problem is won't be effected by this as the air flow is well down from where the fuel/timing maps run out of resolution. I really can't see where there could be a pipe leak all pipes have been removed and checked, I will defiantly take on board what you have suggested and I will buy new rubber joiners and clamps for the whole system. I guess the only way to really find the leak in on a dyno. BTW its not a freshly built engine it is a second hand engine with around 70k on the clock. The newly built engine has to wait till the wifes ute is paid off then RIPZ 3L will be on the way. Funding approved by wife just gotta work my ass off and pay of her ute now. Cheers for the help guys

No i haven't had the ability to check the fuel pressure I will be borrowing a gauge kit to check it. Reg was swapped due to the top of it being able to rotate which didn't seam right as the spare was on solid. Not really silly as swapping didn't help meaning more than likely it was not the problem(That is of course assuming the spare is in good working order)

Another theory is blown turbo sending oil into the combustion chamber/ May explain the slow boosting

Ford XR6 Turbo runs map and no issues there. So the whole map = race car is a little off.

Hmmm there goes my Theory. any other ideas as to why its soooooo rich? Good ideal to buy an in cabin fuel pressure gauge?

Ok so had a play with the GTR on the weekend. Put on a high flow can changed coil packs. This has helped(Car much more drivable reving a tad quicker) but problem still not sorted. We got out the trusty old Motec lambda meter and wow on boost she if hitting 0.663 lambda or 9.75afr We changed over the FPR to another stock one i had and checked the return line for blockages. My injectors are yellow topped??? If i recall correctly the 32 RB26 stock injectors i sold last month were not yellow. Could after market injectors be causing the over fueling(Assuming they are after market)? Also i noticed a regulator type thing on my spare fuel rail on the return line the rail currently on the engine does not have this?? any one know what it is used for? Any ideas would be a big help.

Nistune will be able to log the load for you internally make sure the afm gives the correct reading the ecu is ment to see. Nistune will also maptrace afrs for you.

Your doing it all wrong. Just turbo the stock rb30 and when that blows build an rb30det

I actuslly think the base timing is off by 2 degrees so ill check that first thing tomorrow. Turbos are both spinning fine and i picked up my consult cable today so i will have a look at what the ecu is doing tomorrow. I have anotherfuel rail so i might swap over regs aswell

BTW forgot to mention it was very slow to rev and bost to .5 bar that why im thinking stuffed cat.

Everything seams to be connected properly. We had taken of all the pipig and double checked everything. Hasn't been dyno tuned yet trying to get her to run properly first.

Dropped a new 32 rb26 into my 32 gtr. Took it for its first test drive about a month ago and it was boosting to 1 bar but seamed very very laggy and just didn't seam to have any power. It was blowing smoke so we decided to clean the cooler piping as it was full of oil from the previously blown engine. Test drove it last weekend and it wont boost past 0.5 bar and still feels extremely laggy. It feels like you hit a brick wall at 0.5 bar. We have cleaned the afm's put new lower gapped plugs in. We are thinking to try different coil packs aswell. Another thought is it could be a blocked cat. That might explain the lag as I am running hks 2510 turbos it should be extremely resposive. Any ideas?

Not worth the money you would spend. Turbo it and get petter performance

S14 will probably cost more than 10k Plenty of modified r32 GTS-T for 10k and under