Faid

Here are some pic of the stock GTR BOV setup. they are from a friends 34 but i own a 33 and its the same. dont have the ones where it plumbes back in the IC picping but i think this can help you on your way.

R33 with the fully built Rb 26 engine an the old T78 34D turbo charger, dont have the pics of the T04Z installed on my job compu. so this is my old setup, was pushing 400AWKW, with the Rb28 cams and head job and the T04Z it pushes close to 480AWKW, daily driven.

i use the twin setup also, and it sounds just like yours, but only louder and a tad sharper, cuz these are fed by a T04Z and 23psi boost. sounds like a gun going off.

Also user of LM 1 with dataloging, we dont have a dyno in my country, so i have to road tune my car, and the innovative is a very good model, updates nearly real time.

yea it comes onto boost quite heavy because of the smaller exhaust housing, but then again after 7200-7300 we are forced to pull timing cuz of the heat it begins to dail in to maintain the boost, that gives it somewhat of a soggy top end. but the midrange pull is just brutal, on semi slick radials it just tries to blow the air out of your lungs due to acceleration. the engine we run is the RB26, bored to 86.5mm using wiseco forgies and pauter H beam rods. the cranck was regrinded and ACL black bearings used allround. full ARP bolts and nuts all put together with surgical precision, i wanted to go perfect on this one so it took me about 4 months for the job. it has tomei lifters, jun springs and titanium retainers and tomei 254@ 9.15mm lift cams and to top it off, 0.5mm oversize manley gen II valves with a port job and a 5 angle valve job. I know i know, that turbo is choking the engine and not utilizing the power it is capable off, but after my bud built the engine invested in electronics and gearbox internals and differentials and respraying the car and bodykits etc he forgot the most crucial part, the TURBO, my wife had a new one that was ready to go on her EVO VIII and se sold it to him cheap, since then running on that till he saves up

a good mate of mine who has a GSTS 33 with a Rb26 conversion (did it ourself) has put a turbonetics T3/T4 turbo on the car with injectors and a autronic SM4 with 2 Z32 AFM's (to make it less harsh on the road). we see about 270rwkw out of that car, and its deadly respsonsive, full boost at about 2900 rpm then it just rockets to the 8k limiter lighting the tires up. if i do a roling start with my GTR runnin 450awkw and hist gtst that car noses ahead cuz the power is lighting fast, but after that the T04Z kicks in and he becomes a spec in the rear view. but i can tell you that turbo is super responsive on the 26 engine, it nearly put us in a lantarn post cuz of the rear end constantly stepping out in 1st 2nd and 3rd gear, its just brutal.

Dude for the amount of work you need to do on your car, the easiest way to do it is get your engine out. its by far the most hassle free way. getting your turbo's out without doing that is just forcing your brain and your patience. I have a highmount T04Z and i still dont bother to pull the engine out for getting the turbo off. and for that power, look at the tomei poncams 260 deg 9.15mm lift, on my 450 awkw setup wich i use nearly daily those cams make a fat midrange, and the camgears helped alot. its like being kicked in the arse evrytime you hit boost. and you must be crazy not to fit your N1 oil pump, you dont know what the previous owner put in there, id be rather safe then very sorry. PULL YOUR ENGINE OUT, youll thank me when your done and itll save you from inventing new words for the dictionary.

MEga work dude, thats what i call effort. you wanted the dream and you worked your way to it, respect. start saving for another turbo cuz the factory turbo can give way and ruin your engine, believe me i know. BTW love the paint job

i used my PPG for the drangs on my super built engine with a autronic SM4. but that damn thng is too hard to drive on the street. i drove the car once with the full race setup to work and back. on the way to there it was hell, with flat 10k changes but on the way back i hit traffic on the highway, nearly bored myself to death. once home i got to removing the box and putting my OS gearbox with my 450 kw engine back in, cuz the car is bloody bad to drive with that thing in on the street, it is a monster on the track though

dont cryo treat evry part in your car. cryo treating has it advantages, as it uniforms the metal structure in the parts but it makes them brittle as hell. you can cryo treat your geabox internals, and your crank shaft but more then that. and your oil punp and the collar is the last thing id have cryoed, wheb you bounce the limiter there are tniy vibrations that can brake your hardned oilp punpm if it is soft it catches the vibration due to energy absorbtion through bending.

Well fluid dynamics is a complex head ache, i recently did my PhD research in pneumatics and fluid dynamics. I studied the boundry effects that gasses display under pressure and high velocity and tried to make quick reaction pneumatic devices work more efficiantly. so thats why i know that trying to make a gas flow laminar is basicly impossible, you better off trying to shit in a coke botle . Laminar flow is good for transport purpouses, but if you just take a look at the pricaple of entropy your better off leaving it as is. evry system goes for the biggest amount of chaos, and lets face it gasses are most prone to go chaotic. for thermodynamic property's a turbulent flow is more desired. your better off in a mixing pool when you try to cool air down. the air that "sticks" to the intercooler get cooled, but if the flow was laminar, the airflow on the inside would stay hot, and also heat is like a battery, the moment there is a thermal potential difference, it begins to create flow, so even if you would get it laminar before the cooler, the heat dissapation of the cooler would on itslef create turbulance in the flow. that is just some theory. be happy to lecture you guys on fluid dynamics when im in aussie next month

do you guys even know physics. at the first, i would really like to know how you are going to make the airflow laminar in you intake piping, because your turbo charger is nothing more than a centrifugal pump, it swings the air in infinite amounts of direction at a certain velocity making the flow turbulent. True is the fact that a laminar flow is desired for transport as is can handle more volume per time unit, but a good turbilant flow has the heat dissipating capacity that is desired, i know this beacause at the calcination facility in the plant where i work we turbulate the flow of liquid alumina to dissipate the heat more efficiently. also for fuel mixing capacity, a turbulant flow is more efficient. i realy want to know how you would make the flow laminar, the dynamic viscosity of a gas is so low that you need only a small deficiency's in you piping to disrupt this flow

its for the styling if you replace them with braided. what kinda turbo's are you planning on running. Replace the bolts, and don't forget a good new gasket set from nissan, these are highly recommended.

Massive dude, keep up the good work. let us know how she runs, im quite interested in the preformance of your turbonetics turbo, have good experience with them.

dude have you checked your coils for cracks. also use another RB 26 ecu to test the car. and dont abuse your starter. check your compression and you ignition system. Are the coils firing correctly, maybe that the spark goes to the cylinder that is not under compression. check if your injectors are firing in order of compression. if i can be of more assistance PM me.

I'm not sure if you guys are familiar with turbonetics turbo chargers, but their T3/T4 hybrid ball bearing turbo is quite effective in pushing 290Kw with ease and give massive response. a friend of mine has a 26 with that turbo in his car, and i can tell you the car is violent. it hits full boost around 3300 and pulls massive to 8500 limiter.

id say that the exedy is a good clutch to go with, i have the triplle plate from them, can be grabby but you get used to it. just be carefull that you dont send your gearbox to hell with those power launches, been there done that

The coilpacks are worth evry penny if you ask me. i use them in combination with a spark amp and they havent failed me yet. i switched to them as i was beginning to experience spark issues that didnt stop after re gapping the plugs. but i run 450 kw on a daily driver. I think they can handle quite more than the stockers. a friend of mine who has a 26 in his R33 GTST using a T3/T4 hybrid ball bearing turbo pushing 450 HP cracked 3 of his stock coils, and if im not mistakin these packs can handle more heat.

i get 65l per fill and get about 200km out of the tank, but i drive hard and mostly under boost. i drive the car to work and back evry now and then and thats a 55 km highway thats practicly empty at the hours i go to work, so its pedal to the metal. mind you guys i run at least 450-475 kw and push 23 psi on a T04Z with 1000cc squirters and 2 fuel pumps with a 2l swirl system and run 11.9 AFR in my mill.

Hey dude i had my oversize valves made by manley in the US. they fabricate head components for muscle cars but they do custom orders. the valves have exelent alloy propertys and havent shown a sign of wearing, even using my 10.35mm lift cams. youll need to change the retainers, the springs, the lifters, the valve stems need to be complety reworked, and your head will need a nice port and polish job to suit the rest of the components. if you have any questions feel free to pm or mail me. ill do my best in helping you setup your head

it all comes down to how well the enigne was built. how precise was the block bored, the clearances cheked and matted up to be near the same. what kinda bearings did you use, do you use a damper to surpress unwanted crank harmonics. and how good was the assembly balanced. on the build engine id run 8000-8500 plenty for street. i run a 10200 revlimiter but my engine was built to precision by one of the most experienced machine shop crew in my country (at my workplace). we took our sweet time to build the engine from scratch and do evrything precise. its all up to your engine builder and how confident he i in his work

ill try to record it with my cam and post it up, but in my country we dont have fast internet so uploadung the clip will be a pain in the ass. If you are familiar with audio competition then you know the meter that they hang on you windshield to measure the sound output of yours subs. a friend owns one of those devices and he sat with me one day and asked if he could measure the sounds pressure on the windshield. i tiold him go ahead beacuse its impossible to have a conversation when pushing the car full throttle. we set it up and on full boost it was 124 db, mind you guys that i run a T04Z along with a monster exhaust that has to scrape evry friggin speedbump in my country, the best part is the wastegate when the eninge hits 10k and the turbo is screamin full revs. its orgasmic pleasure ::D:D:D

full 4.25 inch with a 5.5 inch cannon in the rear, no cats (not necesary here) just a huge cannon in the rear with 5.25 exit diameter. and not to forget in the front the 60mm wastegate screamer into atmo. the car is deep noted till the turbo kicks in, after that its pure hell 124dB in the cabin with the windows open.

Baby the car for the firt 100-200 km, changing early before boost. after that change enigne oil and filter, might wanna buy a filter magnet to trap shavings incase there are some. for the 200-500 km bring the car up to revs a little quiker then u used to but dont fang the car into boost. at 500 km change the oil and filter again. after this drive till about 80-90 km/h in the 5th gear. and when the enigne is at operating temps and you see a free pass, gear down hard and give her evrything she's got pull about 2 gears on full song after that decellarate and take you 80km/h grandpa drive, dont fang it too often, continue till 1000km but keep the boost low at about 8-9psi. at the 1000km mark youll be changing oil and filter for the last time now its time for the power run in, get it tuned for full power and your desired boost level, and now where the oppertunity presents itself give her all she has, when you overtake dont hesitate to bring her on full song, continue to about 1500 kms and your done with runnin in the engine. the frequent oil changes i do because the micro metal shavings that are normal to exist in a new-rebuilt engine have been known to stuff up bearings. this procedure has worked for me till now and ive run in 2 RB's and 10-12 haulpack engines

Jeez, you guys really have it bad down under. In my country its a pro if you have the loudest exhaust on your car. Its gotten so bad that NA toyota carina and corrola's decide to fit a cannon and produce horrible exhaust notes. for my car i employ a full 4" system with no cat but double resonators and a 5.5" cannon in the rear. as long as the car doesnt reach boost its quite silent, exept for those cars with too sensitive shock sensors . but the moment the car reaches full boost and the 2.5" screamer comes in to play, it all over a normal conversation can not take place, but it still turns heads