Faid

You can go about 300kw on the stocker engine after that things are gonna go sour on you. get the basics, and have ur turbochargers checked, if they go bang on you then youd be up for a expensive build. but look at your finances first, you cant have a killer car and eat out of the dumpster.

I have used the PFC with twin Z32 AFM's for my 450 kw setup and it preformed flaweless, but now with the new drag race engine in, the PFc wouldnt suffice, i switched to autronic for the MAF deletion that it offred. I use the SM 4 model, it is a great model, the auto tune option takes a lot of guess work out of the equation, the mapping is easy and the car pulls like a rocket

the clearances were not correct if you ask me, dont drive the engine, you are getting serious blow by. id say your build is crapola.

dude get some beers, bribe a friend with some good food, and make a afternoon to do it yourself. youd appreciate the finished job. and it gies bragging rights, ive done it myself. grease those elbows boy

Rebuild your diff, have it checked out, if evrything is in keen condition just run it and dont be worried

I use a mothers detailing kit, its available from www.summitracing.com costs about 70 buck till my country. probly about 100 till aussie. but its money well spent, you get like 10 different things to get your car shiny, comes with rim and tire polish, makes your car like new. and use those hands boys, god didnt give them just to wank off

Just powdercoat it, its chemical and heat resistant. cont go wrong, had mines done in lemon green with the team logo on it

i tto run the jun pump, an i have 100psi on cold start, with a tomei oil restrictor, when warm the idle presure drops to 28 psi and on full song its 80 psi. i have a restrictor fitted in my turbo feed line, but not sure if the T04Z comse with a restrictor fitted in the cartridge. have ask the experts on that. i run the stnd tension spring

My head was CNC ported, but i didnt pay for it. I had the head specialist at my job do it for me bribing him with beers and a BBQ. we have someone that studied at caltech for this sorta work, and at the workplace we have the cnc equipment and the dude that calculates evrything, so why not misuse that, its quite precision work with a buret and all that crapola measuring into the wee hours of the night. but its done perfectly and the results are great

I use the poncams on my daily driven setup, with a T04Z running 23 psi of boost and 1000cc squirters. the poncams are 260 dur and 9.15 mm lift. using tomei lifters and jun valvesprings. manley custom Gen II 0.5mm oversize valves and ratainers. when i didnt dail in my cams, the car was sluggish to come onto boost, but after expert advice by SK the cams were dailed in and i was actually amazed at how much it allowed me to push the ignition. the car came to full song 400rpm earlier and acually from a roling start it would light up all 4rs through the 1st, 2nd and it would chirp the 3rd. the cams made big big differance, the power increased to 467awkw. on the drag engine im building atm i will be eploying 1mm oversize valves, and jun 280 deg 11.35mm lift cams, to push the T51 SPL BB turbo. all the bits in the head will be jun exept the valves. for the street i dont recomend bigger then 260 on both in and ex.

with my R33 and 600-620 AWHP i ran 1.48 on semi slicks. but from my point of view i say get a good clutch and drop the clutch at 7200, for a consistent launch, remember that youll hit the limiter very soon, so hold your hand on the poke and be ready to shift to second gear. be ready for the torque streerin that wil happen if you do so, and be carfull with your gearbox

Poncams, 260 IN and 260 out @ 9.15mm lift. the best way to go, and adjust your cam timing good. with the poncams and untuned camgears, the car pulled lazy towards boost and the boost kicked in later @ 4900, but after tuning the gears, it was way more responsive towards boost and the moment ful boost hit was at abou 4600, and it pulled way better all the way through the rev range

The duel ill be running on for this build is a special blend by the lab guys at my company (a mining company actually has a petrochemist). hes blending trinitromethanol with a emulgator into av gas. they calculated the octane number for this fuel at 112 octane. during normal driving with 450 kw i use the shell Vpower, doesnt knock, quite good stuff on a 8.5 comp. And oh yea i dont have a compressor map for this turbo charger, do some of you guys know where the island of efficiency ends on this monster, i thought that i just have to dail in the boost till about 28 psi for my power aims

does a twin wastegate setup on a single turbo realy make that big a difference, i allready have a split pulse entry manifold, it was for my T04Z but i am using the adaptor plate for the T51. i use a 60m HKS race gate wastegate, wich will stay atmo with a screamer and i will make a shorty exhaust from 4.5" tubing exiting behind the front wheel. the block was taken apart today, getting prepped to bore out and fit the HKS step III stroker, Trust enlarged sump, ATi balancer, and all the bits and pieces, the head will be done tomorrow, and i will be incorporating the Jun 280 @ 11.35 mm camshafts. so i think by this time next week the engine can be hung, and the painfull process of running wires and tuning the ECU can start. the gearbox is ready to go in, it has been prepped and filled with oil, the uprated driveshafts are allready bolted tight, so i hope to finish the build next week or so, cuz next weak my leave ends at work, and i have to work my arse off again

Thanks for the input guys. i think ill go the Jun 280 with 11.35 mm lift way. the head is being assembled by AEBS california, i only have to mail them with the specs and they set it up for me. eeumh another question if i run 10.49 with 600-625 awhp, what kinda times am i looking at with 900hp, full slick tires and a PPG gearbox. If its not to much of a hassle, you guys are invited to come to the race weekend (6-8 april) and watch compettitors from all over the carribean compete. Im defending my national title, can you believe that 10.49s is the best time we've clocked in this country

I run the 0.81 AR T04Z with a built 2.7 engine, cams, 4in exhaust, HKS manifold and i make 450kw on 24psi, thats nearly 1.8 bar. and BTW how does the stocker engine respond to a monster turbo like the T04Z. and how do you keep the old girl alive, dont you have issues with blowby due to older piston rings?? if i hijack this topic my apoligies

Ok dudes, im gettin ready for my nex step in preformance. I want a full drag setup, and im building a new block with a HKS 2.8 stroker etc. Im putting in a autronic ecu with a HKS T51 SPL turbocharger wich i think can make the 1000HP with supporting mods. ill run 3 bosch 044 pumps with a 2l swirl system and a tomei stnd GTR pump for lifting. 1000cc injectors with a FPR. my question is what cams i should use for this setup. its going to be a outrageous drag build. ill be using the PPG 6spd gearbox, and a Exedy tripple plate clutch. the cams must be for top preformance, they need to hold the engine till 11k rpm. and also what kind of ignition setup do i need, cuz now i am running splitfires with a HKS ign amplifier. do i need better coils. the head ill be putting on the engine will have 1mm oversize valves, a port polish job and all the valve train needed to support the engine. when i am talking about cams i mean duration and lift. if you guys can give me some input it would be geatly appreciated, cuz i dont have anyone in my country that can help me with advice on my sky GTR.

pulld fuse, drain ATESSA, and pull out front prop shaft. thats the way to do it, but i advise you on a GTR its dangerous, i did it on mine and the moment my car hit boost, it basicly spun out of control and i nearly hit a lighting pole. but anyway succes with your drifting carreer

I use the pon cams on my GTR with adjustable cam pulleys. i have a fully modified head ported and polished, 0.5mm oversize valves the works, and with my gears set at 0 deg the car hits full boost at 4900 rpm, with tweaking of the gears and fiddling with the pfc, inj and ign timing the car would hit the full boost at 4600 rpm. so they are worth the hassle if you want to gain smth extra, these things are realy the bang for the buck,.

Forged engine, HKS T04Z turbo 0.81 AR, PFC twin Z32 AFM, hits full boost by 4600 and puls all the way to 10k. No problems with this config what so ever. rinnung the engine nearly daily driven on 22 psi of boost. no complaints so far

dude it could have happned to me while i was on the track. any how we pulled the motor apart a hour ago and the news is positif. there is no damage whatsoever in the engine. clearances checked out correctly. clean as a whisle. the gearbox got a nasty gash in the bellhousing, but the internals are fine. ill have the internals xrayed tomorrow to check for things you cant see. but its looking good so far, my new clutch was waiting to go on anyway. changing the housings tomorrow. want to get it back on the road. And dont streetrace, that pice of flywheel that shot out made a 15cm hole in the asphalt and it can freely break through the fire wall and kill you. streetracign is bad and illegal even in my lawless country

Ok guys i have a big problem. during a bluff on the street by a turbocharged honda civic type r, i launched big (about 9.5k) and the car took off like a rocket, powershifted 1st, 2nd 3rd en then it came. a awefull sound form the engine bay. and the revs rocketed up. i stopped the car immedieatly, killed it and went to inspect and found out that the flywheel basicly blew up. the underside of the bellhousing wi complely smashed. sounded like a bomb wnet off in there. please give me a honest opinion of what kinda damage to expect when i pull the engine out. i do have another gearbox at home with stock GTR 33 internals. is there a chance my OS GIKEN cross mission gearset is smashed, or that i have cranck damage, or worse that somthing in my engine got shot. please i need your help, should i strip the engine and the gearbox and have them checked for damage, or should i just replace the flywheel and clutch, cus the part that bolts onto the cranck stuck on and the screws seem to loosen.

Get the Pirelli P0 tires. they work wonders, they get very sticky when you drive them hard, and get them in 275-40 or 35 i use 18-10 rims on my car and i use 275 - 40 they handle great especialy when hilclimbing with the hairpin turns and a T04Z screaming full BOOST

Dude get this hting checked i had this issue last week and im running big power. my CAS was on its way out, and its f**king scary when your pride joy and big parts of you savings start to sputter and drop revs. i looked like a coil related problem but when i swapped my coild to a mate's RB 26 they fires correctly, after that i tried my ignitor, same agian, bu when i checked my CAS it was shot. it didnt give the correct signal, have it checked before smth worse happens

Stock GTR pump used as a lift pump feeding a surge tank, running 2 Bosch 044 with -4 lines to a HKS twin entry fuel rail. Nismo fuel reg, and HKS 1000cc injectors. Using APEXi Power fc. Making 450 AWKW on shell V-Power Racing.