Faid

change the rod bolts on your engine, they are the weak point in the bottom end, put in the injectors, and the pump as stated above, your car is old and will suffor easily from fuel starvation due to the old pump.

I am using the Blitz SBC III. boosting 24psi through it, hasnt spiked once. easy to use and instructions in english. on my lancer evo (my GF's actually) ive put a turbonetics bleed valve, seems to hold 19psi fairly well.

I use the JUN pump, and yes if you use the stock nissan N1 pump they will fail, as they did in my former engine. evrything failed in one time, the gearbox, the oil pump and the main big end bearings. so use the jun pump with a cranck collar.

i use the wiseco pistons 87mm with a 4 thou clearance, invest in some good rod prepping, and get new ARP bolts for the rods, as was said before the stock GTR bolts are well BS. get your cranck checked, and use new bearings allround, i reccomend the ACL black race series, top stuff. and i run the wiseco pistons on 450 AWKW and i drive my car pretty much every day. treat your engine correctly ie good warm up, on time service, let it cool down. and yea owning a RB 26 is like having a super high maintance GF, ie your wallet will be begging for its life

Jup get is for the GTr i use the HKS oil cooler with a thermostat, and in my country i have a allround year avrage temp of 30 deg, so a oil cooler is a must in my country. even when at night when i drive to work with outside temps hitting 20 deg and im driving at 240km/h on the high way my oil temp hits 110 constantly. and i have a JUN oil pump, and a tomei enlarged sump with baffles, so i have no oil suriging issues. but look to have that thing fitted along with a oil temp gauge.

Dude get a T04Z, youll be happy to have it. and for that car i would go for a better ecu setup like a Autronic SMC. get rid of your stock trothle body's if you are going to run MAP, cuz MAP is a issue with the 6 throtle setup. or you can do what i did and put in twin Z32 AFM's and run the stock plenum and polish is to glossy finish (maybe some powercoating). get some decent cams and gam gears for the off boost response. ditch your plans for a 3inch exhaust, get 4 inch, sounds alot better when you put a good resonator and a good muffler in. get your head worked with all the bits, im talking port, polish, 0.5mm oversize valves, good lifters, titanium retainers, and good valvesprings. the T04Z is by far one of the most superior turbo's made. i hit the full boost barrier on my built 2.67l engine at about 4600 with all the head work stated above. but i pull farkin hard to 10k, the turbo keeps pushing the car through its gears like there no resistance. get a good highmount manifold and your (make it a good stainless steel one) engine bay will look at least as good as that of the GTR 700. and oh yea dont plumb back your external gate screamer (scares the shit out of you the first time you hear it scream )

dude get it checked ASAP!!!! this could create dangerous AF ratios in your first cylinder wich could cost you a full engine rebuilt. dont let these things be, as GTR's tend to be your wallets and credit cards best friend.

dude, do you know how to drive your car?? i ran against a civic type R with a K20A engine when my car was stock (exept for the 3 inch exaust). and i smoked him about 2.5 cars. do you launch your car good??. maybe its the clutch that is breaking up. get a good clutch, and try it again, the GTR benefits from a near redline launch. and be ready to pul the second gear in no time.

dude i dindt know that they put power FC's into F1 cars. . but i want to get to the 12k barrier. i have ordered my N1 block allready, till that arrives early next year ill have the head built in california and the special sump ordered, then it comes time for the step 3 stroker. when ill be building the setup ill keep you guys posted with pics, as early next year ill have a 8k internet connection so i can psot up a lot of pics. now i am running a crappy 64kb internet connection (stupid 3rd world country)

Well guys i run the stock GTR plumb backs, and i boost nearly 2 bars. so the GTR BOV does its job in my application, it flows enought to take 23psi of T04Z pressure, cuz i dont get any surge issues.

i can account for the GT pro nismo 2way, it sits in the rear diff of my gtr, and in the front i run a kaaz 1.5 way. i recently pulled my front drive shaft out and bled my atessa to do some drifting in my neighborhood (scare the little kids and disturb their parents ) and the way the nismo makes my rears light up. if you need a diff get that one for drifting

I have the OS gearset, but had custom sync's made up in japan. i rev till 10k on 450 awkw, smash through gears, and it shows no signs of wear. last week i had suspicions tha the gearset was giving way so we pulled the box out and i had is x-rayd to check for micro cracking. but nothngs wrong with it. it holds up pretty well, good value for the money. and yes the first gear puts me at 94km/h @ 9500rpm. The box is quiet, like the stocker, it doesnt whine like a straightcut.

Exedy Tripple plate (hyper plate). or a Nismo Coppermix twin plate. the best clutches, have used them both nothing to wory about. the exedy is a bit grabby. used my nismo till 350kw, when i built my curent 450 i switched to the exedy but the nismo had a lot of friction material still on it, to think i busted a tranny with that clutch. (doing big launches from the traffic lights, and engine braking.

well thats a good question, how did i come up with this number. well evrybody wants 10k, 11k 12k. i want none of that, more in the terms that my car has to be exclusive. so i dont want to rev 12k, but 11800:D:D

Well i still use my stock cranck shaft and rev the to the 10k barrier. my cranck was extensively prepped tho. it was cryo treated and then nitrated to harden it up, then painstakenly balanced. i put the HKS damper on, and watch the revs fly. i dont push big horsepower on it. want to look into somthing more exotic next year, like a step 3 and a N1 or a GT block next year. i want to rev it 11800

Well i run a N1 pump and i push 450awkw. form what i have read on the forums is that the N1 has a brittle drive gear that breakes if you hit the revlimiter to often. I am currently scratching my head if i need to buy a JUN or a Tomei pump, because my engine has cost me quite a few $ and dont want to go through the entire process again after only 5 months.

Get a super responsive turbo, like the APEXi RX6 B. I have friend here with a S2 GTST with a RB 25 and that turbo, it moved like crazy. what i would suggest is getting your rotating assemly lightend, crank machining, lighter pistons, lightened pulleys, a good damper. get some cams to make the midrange - high end power, get a ECU that can control your VVT, thats about what i can pul out of the hat for you.

that doesnt have to be so, the honda K20 utilizes the setup where there is no fuel return, they use a fuel reg to ramp up the pressure. dont know the exact diagram of that setup, but i am a 100% that the fuel line enters the rail and there is no return.

Dude dont even try doing that job with the engine in the car. its painfull knuckkle busting work to take it out. the taking out part is not thye bad one, the putting back is. and yes youll need new gaskets, and every bolt has to be torqued to spec (the hard part)

Dude do you run a atmo BOV, or do you have a recirculated one. a while ago i had to replace the headlights on a cop car due to my atmo BOV, thats when i was told to put the stcok recirculation system back on and is misteriously dissapeared. oh yea and i run a big exhaust 3.75 inch straight back with 1 resonator, no cat and a muffler in the end, and i dont pop. have it cheked it might safe you a engine build due to turbo failure.

what ecu are you running, and for your power id go for the tomei pon cams, they dont make you car lumpy on idle and you can use the stock valve train. and if you are running somthing like a PFC that works with a AFM your idle wont be lumpy. the problem with lumpy idle and cams is when you run a MAP based ecu in combination with large camshafts, they create a nasty vacuum, so the ecu must be tuned with far more precisision to compesate for the low vacuum.

I have driven a 33 with the GTSS, it was built and tuned in japan, tha car was resposive as hell, when boost kicked in and the car hit his midrange it would light the tires. the full boost hit about 3400. as for your AF ratio, it looks quite good from here, you sould get a better boost controler, i run the blitz with a tripple solenoid setup, have a friend that runs a AVCR in his evo 4 but that thing spikes like crazy (if you are foolish enough to run 24psi through that controler)

damn dude, i wish i could have that, how can you talk about only 500kW, i run 450 and my car scares the shit out of me when i give it a go. succes woth your setup, will be following closely

Well i use the HKS twin power CDI unit in conjunction with the splitfires, and i run a gap of 1.1mm on nearly 2 bar. its is wothwhile if you run over 400 awkW. I bought the unit because my car was misfiring at 20 psi on splitfires, put it in and the missfire stopped immediatley. and now i dail in 23 psi of solid T04Z boost and it fires at 1.1mm.

Hey since you guys are closer to japan than i will ever be, id like to ask you guys this question. DOes nissan still make RB 26 crate engines, or are they completly ou of production. and if they suplied them what would they cost? are the N1 engines still available, or are there more exotic crate engines available for purchase. i am curently pondering out a drag setup hence the questions i ask, any help qwould be greatly appreciated