Faid

well i would like to know what your opinion is about K&N gold oilfilter and using a filter magnet. when i was running my engine in and had installed my oilfilter relocation kit and cooler a friend of mine advised me to buy that filter, with a filter magnet well i can tell you i am quite satisfied with the preformance of the filter. and not to drift off topic but what is the best differential oil and ATTESA fluid. i chaged my diffs to nismo GT 1.5 way rear and a KAAZ 1 way in the front and its time that i change the fluids, when i filled them up last time i used KAAZ fluid in both of them (friend bought too much of the stuff for me), they were a bit noisy in the begining but after the first oilchange they were good and behaved well so far (but need to replace them) and since ive had the car ive never changed the ATESSA fluid so its way overdue. in my gear box ill be changing to Redline lightweight shock proof from the castrol i used to run the Crossmission gearset in.

well i dont know what the whole fuss is over in aussi about intercoolers, but i run a Blitz intercooler (fckin huge piece of shit). i got mine for a quite resonable price as these things are a tad cheaper in the US (where i get most of my things from). i got it with all the piping ans silicone joiners for about $980

well is your bov plumbed back into the intake piping?? if so you wouldnt be able to hear it. but is your exhaust is leaking before the trubo's then you have a problem but after the turbs its no headache.

if your power aim is about 300kw, you can run 800cc injectors the bosch 044 pump, and a rising rate fuel regulator would come in handy. the PFC is a good choice as many tuners know how to work the unit. but id suggest with running the 2530 turbs is getting some extensive headwork done with tomai poncams for your aplication id go with 254 deg IN and 254 deg EX at 9.15 lift with some porting and polishing, get some tubular manifolds with twin external gate ( I think HKS has them) and make the dumps from the turbos 2.5 inch and put in a nice 3.5 inch exhaust. on the twin setup i support the best flowing exhausts because the less restriction the better. the 2530's are resposive given a good tune. and a good high clamp force single plate will do the job just fine (dont know jim berry but i do know of the exedy hyperplate) but keep in mind that pusing your car at 300 kw that something is bound to break which would lead to a bottom end rebuild. and for the bottom end id go wiseco 87mm pistons, pauter rods, and if your cranck is still fine id have to be prepped and reinstalled, and while your at it put in a HKS harmonic damper ( make the car rev nicely:D:D:D

well if you want to hear your bov, you need to vent it, but when venting your bov your car will backfire, but if you like that and dont want to risk getting fined by the cops leave it as is. as for your exhaust, put a full 3 inch catback with high flow cat and front pipes will remove that restrictiveness of your stnd exhaust. plus id suggest getting a lager FMIC and get some pods in a airbox with some cold air ducting. will make the car feel sweeter to drive

you can swap the cams, i suggest the tomei poncams with 260 duration and 9.15m lift. but with cam swap and changing to a higher lift, the probability of valve vloat and valve lash will increase, do i suggest putting in better retainers, stiffer valve springs and if it can do a port job on the head, will help you heaps with your setup, i know thin because i am running the same things on my GTR. the port job on your engine will reap more benefits with the increased lift, also youd get heaps more response SA screaming 10000rpms in 4th gear at the end of the 400m

why are we even discussing about a honda. I hate honda and everything about it. I have even heard some honda dudes day vtec is like boost,can you believe those idiots. i say rev all u want bitches, i know when we stand side by side on a drag strip i know that ill Be putting my power to the ground . stay on one place and burn your tires.

Dude you have a big problem. from what i see here t think it is that the dude that built your engine used to big clearances, causing exessive blowbyand loosing compression. i did the compression test yesterday on a friends GTST R33 S2, with a stock engine and it gave me about 165 psi on all cylinders, it was so good that all were in 1% of each other. the problem i see here is that your engine is pooooooorrrly assembled, have your tuner pull the engine off and take off the head, make him check the piston to bore clearance, the only soultion i can give you if the clearances are to big is that your have to re bore re hone and put bigger pistons in again. 138 kw is even lower than stock, so id advise to check your engine again. i wish i could live in aussi and be of assistance but cicumstances state that i have to give my advice from the other side of the planet

Or here's another idea, Buy a OS GIKEN RB30 kit, A HKS T51SPL turbo, get is all fitted into the car, punch 30 psi of boost, and if ur not satisfied buy a Ntrous express Direct port nitrous setup and shot another 300HP worth of gas into the engine, still not satisfied but urself a saturn V rocked and shoot urself to the moon

a harmonic balancer balances the odd vibrations in the crankshaft caused by the explosions in the cylinders. a cranckshaft doesnt rotate perfectly if it wasnt balanced using a balancer it would rotate itself to shreds. the cracnk in a manual car is has to be balanced by a balancer due to clutch engagements and disengagements on the outher side of the crancnk which also causes odd virbrations

id say ur rings are starting to fail, jsut as said in a earlier post, your getting blow by. you know the coulor of oil when its goes in the engine, is the colour in the catch can the same as that or is it a dark cola like colour. if its dark it has reacted with som exhaust gasses like NO2 and caused it to blacken. it happens all the time with the machinery i work on. have your rings checked before some fatal shit happens to ur engine

what ECU are you running??, isnt this a case of the infamous rich and retard mode of the standard ecu's. id have it checked out

ok i have just finished my car as i posted before, its a breeze to drive the 50 km to work on a nearly empty freeway with nearly 600HP at the wheels. but i have bought a fully stocker of a engine from a friend of mine he bought the enmgine in japan and shipped it over to me. the engine is complete with loom and ECU. i have been looking to the engine and have been thinkin, to keep the engine as is in case somthing happens to my race engine, or the fiddle with it and prep the car for the shit faced dragracers in my country as there is some dude with a menacing 800 WHP RNN14 pulsar. if id go through with building my engine id go the following way: HKS step 3 stroker with 2.8l dicplacement, Tomei englared sump. maximized porting and use tomei procams at 11.35mm lifth with 280deg IN and 290 deg out, manly genB 1mm oversize valves, combustion camber reshaping titanium retainers etc. a Trust T88H-34D turbocharger with a custom exhaust manifold and a HKS 50mm external wastegate, a MOTEC ecu, 5inch dump pipe my intercooler will suffice HKS harmonic balancer etc. OS GIKEN cross mission gearsets, uprated driveshafts and 14 inch wheeld with mickey thompson slicks . is this the way to go, my aim with this setup is a menacing 950-1000HP vehicle that will make any RNN 14 shit bricks. the monay to get these parts is not here but a few months of savings will be enough to start buying some of this stuff.

isnt that the boost reference line on the turbo???? feel free to correct me if im wrong

Ok this looks most likely to be a turbo problem. however you could mak a little more power with a 12.3:1 Af ratio. This is a question of taste but i like a car with a 12.3 Af ratio on full bosst cuz there is more power to be had ( not big gains but a little better). and i think youd be benefitting more from some tomai poncams 260 duration and a 9.15mm lift with some head work done. if i can remember correctly arnt the N1 turbo's supposed to be a little more responsive than what the is putting out. If its the wastegats that are malfunctioning try finding a reaplacement actuator for it. do you have some injectors fitted, if you dont id say its time for some bigger ones and run 17-19 psi of boost on the N1 turbos. dude you drive a GTR live like you drive it ( read: drive with all the power you can get) PS if youre tired of response times and dont want to invest much in gain, just shoot some 50HP worth of nitrous whe raing works like a charm

With your stock displacement its going to be a bitch to get to boost. why didnt you gofor a JUN stroker or even the HKS since the cash is no option, the HKS 2835 twins will do the job just fine they can even be more responsive than say a T51-SPL. if lag is no option id go the big single way. but the twins are quite capable to push your power requirement

Try a HKS balancer they work fine on my car. (RB 26) with my new internals it goes all the way to 9500rpm. its good value for the cash you pay for it

this sounds like a vacuum leak. check the line that gos to the bov. If you know where to fiend your bov, check the entire length of the rubber hose going to it for leaks , or this can be that the spring inside is completly worn out and that the vavle is stuck in the closed position. anyone who thinks that the problem is somthing else feel free to correct me

dont live in the city, i dont even live in your country. i live far away from australia you can say on the other side of the planet. I live in the 3rd world. here we dont know nothing about emissions testing and so on and so forth. in my country when you go to the police to get your car cleared they only test your brakes . ok ive recirculated my bovs. (pain in the ass to take the IC off. but the backfire stopped. thanks

Ok guys i have my car recently built to 600AWHP spec, but i dont think the stock gearbox will hold up so im rebuiliding my gearbox completly with the OS Giken Crossmission gearset, plus evry cam in the box is going to be raplaced with new ones and all fluids will be changed using castrol synthetic fluids. and i want to change all the diffs on the car, for the rear i got the NISMO GT diff and for the front im thinking of getting a cusco 1 way. i would like your input on my setup regarding the OS giken crossmission gearset, and to what extend i can abuse this gearset (read: how much power can this gearset take)

ill provide the pics of the whole buil on a website i am constructing at the moment. but i am very busy at work lately and being a new dad to a set of twins its very hard to get some work done at home. the whole tuning process has video, pictures i even have a video where i run against a friend of mine with the same car he only has a HKS stroker and a T88H 34D turbo on its and makes about 800-900 HP but i did it to show him that he cant drive his car. and if i get this flamage with a cat isnt there a huge chance that i burn the internals of the cat to bits?? the next step for my car is work on the exterior and interior a bit cuz the car is fully stock on the outside. i have sent my valve & coil cover to be powdercoated and the car is going into the paint booth one of these days

isnt the flywheel on a GTR 6 bolt and on a RB 25 8 bolt, correct me if i am mistaking, but the HKS kit comes with a flywheel and if you have a 6 bolt flywheel its n o going to fit on a 8 bolt cranckshaft

i was looking into th os giken buy once but i dropped off it. the HKS step 3 2.8 is far better, have you ever seen how one of those cars rev, here in my country there is one other GTR with a HKS step 3 2.8 kit, its used for dragracing but when the car takes its revs ist sounds like a throttle up of 747. and with the right harmonic balancer you should be able to go into the 11K maybe 12K. but to do circuit rally that sort of things, i dont want to see the amount of coolers youd have to place on the car, youd need at least a tripple core alu radiadtor, a oil cooler at least 19 rows, transmission cooler, and if you an find it (a big if) use the differential coolers they used on the GTR Z tune. i wish you loads of succes and keep us posted on ur progres love to hear what youve decided to do

first of all i live in a country where we dont know what cats are ( at least the cops dont) hence i run a 3.5 inch full turboback exhaust (no restrictions just turbo and a pipe with a resonator in the middle and a muffler in the end). i run a PFC and after the advice of R31Nismoid i am still utilizing the stock GTR BOV's instead of going to the HKS SSQV (very pleased with my choice the dont leak shit quite surprising for a stock item) but i have vented the BOV as i dindt have time to make the piping to recirculate it. is is good if the flame is a bright blue colour?? cuz yesterday at a stopsign (around 12pm) some dude in a honda S2K tought he had a chance so the dude starts reving his engine. im at the end of my run in period (still have about 100 miles to go) so thought what the hell, revved it up to 9000 and dumped the clutch, lit up all 4 and when i changed in to second the only thing i saw in my rear view was a bright blue flame (thank god it doesnt burn the body of the car) but when i change from second to third the flame becomes a mis between yellow and blue and when hitting 4th its nearly complete yellow and 5th its yellow. so what i thing its farly lean on low load and when reaching higher load it richens up which is a good sign but the backfire bothers me

Ok guys it took a straight week to tune my car but i am about confident that i have reached my goal of about 600HP. (on my gtech i push in about 520HP but correctingthis value for wind resistance and rolling resistance it will ammount to about 600 WHP) enough of that, there is a little problem i experience when the T04Z is comming on boost, according to my AEM UEGO wideband datalog my AFR is steady at 14.3 idle and the moment i hit boost the fuel curve comes down to about 12.1. but as the boost builds when im changing gears and let of the throttle i get a huge backfire about 1.4m long. i got fined for frying the lens on a policecar that was onfurtunate to drive behind. this is realy starting to irritate cuz when i pick up my GF the whole neighborhood knows im comming cuz of the huge cannon i have trailing behind me. what can there be done to resolve this problem. should i lean the tune out a bit more to about 12.5 or should this be the way things are, and is this going to hurt my turbo or the exhaust side of the head in any way? the flame does not start in the muffler it starts just after.