khezz

Goal is to build a car that can be daily driven on 98ron fuel. Be able to run low 9s and go past 300kmh (once my balls grow big enough) at racewars on e85. For street I need responce/drivability. For drags I need outright power and for speed I need revs. Similar to what motive did with their r32 but better. Head will get the full treatment from Rams. Yes, I could go billet but I just can't see an extra $6000 value in 200cc capacity. I am not aiming for 1500hp+ either.

I am in the process of building an rb2630 combo. I keep getting conflicting reports about the strength of the rb30 crank. There's plenty of examples of rb26 cranks spinning past 9000rpm and making a 1000hp. I know the rb30 has a longer stroke but does it really effect the strength that much? I have had two well known workshops tell me that you can't spin an rb30 crank to 9000rpm and it won't make 1000hp. Rips (love em) said, no worries. Machine, balance, grub screw and it will do it easy. The block will use a prp race/caps combo and an ATI balancer to help keep things in place. What experience have people had with standard rb30 cranks?

Power FC D-Jetro from an R32 gtr will become available in second half od august. Currently in running car. Will come with hand controller and sensor. $500.

Fuel pumps and surge tank sold subject to payment

Spool rebuild kit sold, subject to payment.

Selling extra parts from my build. Spool rb30 rebuild kit. H beam rods, Ross 87mm 9.0 comp ratio pistons, Total seal rings, King rod bearings, Race main bearings, Nitto crank collar. All brand new in boxes. $1500. Will not separate. Garrette Gtx4294r turbo kit. 1.01 T4 housing, heat wrapped twin external gate manifold, two turbosmart 45mm hypergates with screamer pipes, heatshiled. Turbo is in good condition, no chips on either wheel and no shaft play. Kit came off of a rb2630 r33 gtr. All parts are used. $2500 will not separate. Twin Bosch 044 pumps and surge tank. Both use but in good condition. $300 will not seperate. Available in second half of august. RB26 bottom end. No head, no sump. Currently in a running car. Car makes 380hp at wheels on 98ron fuel. $1500. Available in second half of august. Pair of GTR LM turbochargers. Currently in running car. Currently make 380hp at wheels on 98ron fuel. Steel wheel turbos that are rated at 300hp each. $500 for the pair. Will ship parts at buyers expense. Parts available in august can be reserved with payment and confirmed once available to pickup/ship.

Small update. In the process of ordering the spool 3.4l bottom end. 9.5 compression ratio Upgraded wrist pins and bolts Billet main caps and brace. Will have allot of rb26 and rb30 gear for sale in the next few days.

Not the best photo but you can see the wheels and the back of the car.

I agree, the wheels can make or break a look. I'm going to keep the wheels that are on it now. 17x10.5 very light weight. Very dark grey matt finish. I also removed the rear spoiler. Trying to add another image of the car but not having much luck.

Hello. Its been a couple of years since I've been here. I own a 1990 GTR. Originally the car was light blue, hence the name Smurfette. It has since received a new collour changing paint job and the power goals have changed also. Perhaps she will be renamed to Evil Smurfette. After ma y years of ownership and various bolt on upgrades, the car is fine in a shop getting a proper rebuild. Firstly, all the leaks, seals, lights, rust spots are being rectified. While that is being done and the engine is out, we will do spool 3.4L stroker, PRP billet caps/brace upgrade. Head will also recieve an upgrade of parts and some port work. Car will run on 98ron on a day to day basis with e85 for track days. Intan pump will feed a surge tank which will feed 2000cc injectors. While the engine is being run in and I learn how to drive, drive train will remain untouched accept for a twin plate clutch. Later on i will get a PPG 5 speed and look to upgrade the drive shift, axles and diffs as needed. For induction, I am leaning towards a twin G25-660 setup. It will be a squeeze but the result will be a more factory look and more the enligh power to have vreat fun in with the car. Does anyone know of any gtrs where thats been done? I will keep the updates coming as often as I can.

Looks awesome mate. Like I said to you before. Can't wait to see both of our 3l fire up.

Thanks. I'll price it up.

Didn't know that. I always thought if you go the grout rout, you can only do 1/4 mile runs. Might look into that.

How does that effect the Engine? Can it still be daily driven?

Fare enough.

So things like wall thickness, any sort of structural bracing is pretty much the same on both bottom ends? Just talking about bare blocks.

This purely a curiosity question. Are there any structural differences between the rb26 and the rb30 bottom ends that would make one stronger then the other? For example, we all know that the N1 block is stronger then standard. Billet is stronger again. If we took a standard rb26 and a standard rb30 bottom end. Similar age, kms and condition, are there any distinct differences in the design, engineering, manufacturing of either of the 2 that would make one withstand more HP then the other. Taking sheer displacement out of the equation.

We had a brief look at running twin GTX low mounts but for the cost and response, big single turned out to be a better choice. I should point out that one of the reasons I went with my combo is parts turned up real cheap all at once. The previous owner of my turbo was also running a 2630 combo and said that even with a standard compression ratio the car was an animal from 4000rpm onwards but was very easy to drive in traffic. Nothing beats displacement if drivability is a goal.

Good luck. Same progress pace here.

A high compression ratio, forget, worked 2630 with a gtx4294r on the side sculling e85 through id2000s and 3x044 pumps. Our first plan was a 26 with twin 2860-5 then we decided to go for 6466. After pooping my pants in an rb28, plan changed again. By luck a few parts for a 2630 turned up along with a turbo kit and here we are. But I will never forget the difference between my car originally and the 2 gtrs in the shop. They were so well sorted. No flat power spots. Everything just worked.

Don't know if anyone is still interested but here is my real world experience. Own an R32. Made close to 400 atw. With bolt ons. Never did cams though. Was happy till a minor engine issue. Decided to rebuild. Didn't know if I wanted a 2.6 or a 2.8. Walked into a workshop and got to go for a ride in 2 gtrs. Both were single turbo cars 600hp 2.6 and a 740ish hp 2.8. Both drove better than my low mount twin setup. Why? They were better built and better equipped and better setup cars. Everything was matching. Either one could be driven daily. A well built, well setup car will be most fun to drive. Find a good shop. Get good parts. Take your time. If the opportunity is there. Drive different setups. I was sure I knew what I wanted. After just two drives, my plan turned on its head. There are so many videos of cars. Every combo you could think of. Nothing worse then redoing something.

R34 6 speed. To me its the only sensible choice.

100% correct. I see and hear all sorts of figures. From 650hp all out to 1100hp. I am sure it will be stupid fast no matter what.

Fare statement. I am not too worried about idle. If It has to idle at a grand or more to stay happy then so be it. It's not going to be the most "streetable" daily driver but I don't want a dyno/drag queen either. So agreed. Less is more. I am still a little staggered that we are discussing a 1000hp daily driver like its breakfast news. Not too long ago, that sort of GTR would never be considered streetable. God bless ball bearing twin scroll turbos, E85 fuel and all other things that makes this possible.

I can't imagine owning a car and hate driving it. Will keep my build thread up to date. Had the car painted today. Came out mint.