khezz

This is purely for personal curiosity. We see these questions all the time. What sort of power can standard gear withstand. Rods, pistons, block, turbos, headgasket, fuel lines, injectors, gearbox etc etc etc. What about the head. There are lots of flow charts for the RB26 head but what are the real world results. Because most people will not do a 5 axis cnc port and polish or go for oversized valves, shomless buckets. When I was getting my headword done, the cost was over $10k. Most people will go for drop in camshafts, springs, maybe guides and retainers. Possibly a brush through the ports to remove some build-up thats collected over the years/decades. So what's the most power that you know of that has been extracted through a "standard" head? No porting, no material removed of any kind. Just a change in lift and duration of valves.

https://www.affinismotorsports.com/products/full-race-nissan-skyline-gt-r-rb26dett-efr-twin-turbo-kit There is some graphs and videos. If you search on face book there is also a log of an OZ built gtr that was using twin efr. Install looks amazing. Still love the twin setup on gtr. Install video log.

Wow. Every video and post I have seen about the twin efr has been positive. Even a couple of dyno graphs I could find looked impressive. The only down sides were price and difficulty with install. Just shows that there really is two sides to every turbo install. Thank you. Very informative indeed. Im looking into Xona just to satisfy personal curiosity. Seems like a good product. Wonder why it's not more popular in Oz. I'm probably living under a rock.

Starting to come together. Last of the panels have arrived. Shouldn't be long now. Looks like I'll be changing my turbo choice from G42-1450 to a Precision gen2 7685. By all accounts it will get me my power goals but with better street drivability.

No worries. I love reading other people's stories, thoughts, ideas. Might just read something that makes me change my mind and helps build my perfect ride.

I am going from a 2.6 with a 8.5:1 ratio with old lowmounts that came on around 5000rpm to a 3.2 with a 9:1 ratio with a latest and greatest bearing baby that should start pulling around 3500 with ball biasing by 5000rpm. Plus it will most likely be a 6 speed sequential. It will be better on the street no matter what. Dropping a gear to travel back in time is a small price to pay

I suppose the other part that may be getting overlooked is how the turbo holds its power. I will set my limit at 8500rpm. It all good getting great responce and peak power early but it has to stay there to. You see alot of dyno graphs where responce is great and peak power is reached early but dies off immediately. Real street have a great set of videos testing various precision turbos and he actually points out that he would pick the 72mm turbo over the 68mm even though it slightly slower to spool up. Purely because it reaches 1000hp with less boost and holds it for around 3000rpm where the 68mm gets there and dies immediately.

Curious, what's your build, plan, goal? Can you give a little more detail about your build please. How are you choosing your turbo? (Hp, speed, drivability etc.)

At the end of the day, it's all me handicap it will all break. If misused or not looked after, it will break sooner.

I have watched the videos of their build. Amazing result. That's 3 for Precision.

Well I am Russian born so my power goals are 1.1 Putin power. Or just devide hp by roughly one and a third. You know like we did in year 2.

Thank you for the informative reply. I will be using a DynoDynamics. The goal isn't strictly 1100awhp or nothing. If I get close consistently (1050-1100), I'll be ok with that. I know that it will be different every time. I would like to be able to be able to show up to a meet and no matter what the day bring's be able to reel off comfortable 1000-1100awhp+ on any dyno. As for how fast I want it to be. 9 seconds on 98ron fuel and 8 seconds on e85. I had an early model XR6 turbo sedan (4L turbo 6 cyl) which got me oh so close to 10s. I have been in many of 10 second 6s and 8s. The R32 GTR is my unicorn car. Not a Ferrari or a Lambo or anything else. With the technology these days, you can have an 8 second 1100awhp and live with it on a daily basis. So, why not. It will probably be the last car I get to build. I am pricing up a PPG dog box but leaning more towards a sequential with flat shift capabilities. NO AUTO! I think logic is strongly pointing towards a Garrett or a Precision. Proven, well priced, easy to upgrade, plenty of support. Efr seems like a ground braking product but like you said it will come up shy of my power goals and reliability is a concern. Especially if I am planning to push it to its limits. Twins would be amazing g25-660 is an option also. Well spotted. There is an R34 that runs them for circuit work. Problem is if its done wrong it is very expensive to redo. Maybe I should go the 7675/85 or a 1450 since. Push them less, less heat, more reliability and go sequential to limit any lag. Ill be honest I haven't heard of people using the Xona products here. So support and knowledge would be a very big factor.

These sensible answers are not going to be very helpful. I already have a wife who is sensible. I need some one here to convince me that rocket boosters are the way to go.

That was an actual consideration. The engine would have cost half as much to build and would have been a torque mo ster but fitting it into an R32 simply priced it out of the equation.

I've posted questions about various turbo choices before and I'm more confused then ever. Goal is a street able GTR that will run on 98ron fuel 90% of its life. It will be a genuine daily with around 700awhp. When I do go drag racing I will switch to e85 and aim is around 1100awhp. Engine is a 3.2L 9:1 Nitto stroker built by JHH with a ported head, oversized vlaves. Engine is sorted. Turbo choice 1. BW EFR9280. Best response, probably the most fun as a daily. Worried about back pressure with smaller exhaust housing but could aid spool/torque, 1.45 housing may be too big, not a lot of real world data available yet, probably won't make the power im after on e85. Turbo choice 2. Precision Gen2 7275. Proven performer on the strip and dyno both on e85 and straight petrol. Will make more then enough power. Same concern with small exhaust housing but could also aud spool/torque. Turbo choice 3. Garrett G42-1200 (1450 was considered but its too much for my needs). Will make the power, easy to service/repair, good exhaust housing sizes. Still not allot of data. Turbo choice 4. Twin BW EFR7163. Will make the power, rare/unique, save on engineering. Some amazing kits in US. Yet still by far the most expensive. Should be great all around. Almost no data available. Very limited if decide to upgrade. Now I have been told that "you don't need an 1100hp gtr". No, I don't but I can and I will. This the last part of the build that I haven't decided on. If you were in my shoes, which way would you go and why? Thank you

I am sure you are right. I am definitely going the straight cut rout. Complaining about noise in a car like that is right up there with complaining about fuel economy. I am sure I'll make plenty of errors while learning the car so any room for error is welcome.

Ppg say helical will be ok but if I can live with the noise of the straight cut gears, I should go that rout as there is more margin for error (my error).

Hello. I am in the finishing stages of a 3.2L gtr build and was settled on using g a G42-1450 but the more I read about the 9280, the more I'm starting to sway. It won't give me the same peak power but might make it a faster car due to better responce and torque while still netting a 4 digit dyno sheet. Im thinking 1.45 twin scroll rear housing. What do you guys think?

I had a call from PPG just a few minutes ago as I am in the market for a gearbox my self. I am, funny enough, chasing around 1200awhp. PPG dog box has larger helical gears then the sequential. I did not know that. PPG assured me that dog box will handle my power goal better then sequential. So might be an option to save money and improve reliability. Waiting on a price for helical and straight cut options.

You and Paul are a "HORSEPOWERISTS". When I get 1200rwhp I'll wonder why it broke and I don't want to hear shit from either of you @freehorsepower

Piggaz, What sort of power are you pushing at the wheels?

Getting to the point of my build where I'm finalising my drivetrain options. Was always planning on going for a PPG 5 speed dog box but have seen a few second hand OS88 show up which are priced very competitively. Each box has its pros and cons, I know. Car will be a daily driver 90% of the time. 700-800hp on 98ron. On the track (drag and rolling racing) will switch to E85 and hope to see 1100-1200hp. Which one of the 2 options do you guys think will do a better job?

The problem I would think is the market is too small. By the time you spend money on development and testing, the units would be too close in price to 5 speed gearsets that are already available. They could even end up costing even more. Take out the people who will opt for a 5 speed upgrade, 6 speed getrag, sequential, auto plus cars are getting more rare in general. There is not enough market left. I am weighing up wether to go for new 5 speed ppg or second hand os88. I would love a new 6 speed H pattern option but I don't think it will ever happen.

Well it's been a while sins my last update. The 3.2L bottom end is all finished and with me. Body is just about done to. Engine bay will be the same colour as the exterior of the car. All going well, ill be at Cootamundra and Bathurst at the end of the year.